That’s ok I don’t mine starting one for you.That was kind of my thought but I didn't want to start an argument.... lol.
That's something I've been thinking about for a while. I know Carli uses these joints on their radius arms, vs the OEM vulcanized rubber that Thuren uses on his. I think the primary question between the two is are you willing to trade maintenance requirements for articulation?That joint will allow more vibrations to the chassis and will have a significantly shorter service interval than the vulcanized rubber joint’s service life. It will allow more flex and it is serviceable but overall I think it’s a downgrade.
Regular 2500 is stiffest. PW is in the middle. Thuren is the softest. Got that straight from Thuren.Of course rear coil spring rate comes into play. Anybody know how the spring rate compares between PW and non-PW 2500s with gas engines?
I do like the ability to push the axle forward a little with this modification. I need 1/2”Looks like he finished up. I think it's one of the new 3.0 Johnny joints at the frame. Bung is welded in nice. Pretty slick for very little money.
Johnny joints don't transfer vibration to the cab. That's marketing BS. They also require nearly no maintenance.
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Oh please tell me more about the things I can’t do. I especially want to hear how I’d mess up my shocks.no you can't........well you could but you'll fk your shocks up and your springs won't sit right.
Well the shock is hard mounted at the top and isn’t meant to articulate forward and rearward. I’m sure the springs could handle the movement. Not sure the shocks would like it. I mean i could be wrong.Oh please tell me more about the things I can’t do. I especially want to hear how I’d mess up my shocks.
you are. Lol.I mean i could be wrong.
I'd again request SOMEONE try this kit out because I don't want to be a guinea pig... It could definably help out your being too short problem...you are. Lol.
When you lift the truck, the radius arm effectively becomes shorter. It needs a little more length to be correct. I’d like to get that length without a drop crossmember relocating it
Think of the front suspension as a triangle. The distance between the top coil bucket and the frame mount of the radius arm is one length. The distance of the radius arm is the second length. The distance between the two coil buckets is the third length. If you change the length/height of the coil without lengthening the radius arm you get a tire that isn’t centered in the wheel arch.
I saw this on Instagram... Pretty cool. This guy replaced the frame side articulink bushing with a 3.0 joint. Less slop, but still maintains flex, since all the magic happens at the axle anyways.
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