Good point, calling out the swaybar. The only reason I wonder how much difference it makes in this case is just because both rigs were descending or crossing a ditch... those situations can kind of force a swaybar to twist where a standard climb might not. (I don't know that's the case... but I have seen such an effect on my rig in the past) This would be a place where having everyone RTI their rig and include their specific setup would be awesome. We could compare all these parts, apples to apples.@Lumpskie could that difference be in solely having the sway bar disconnected? The OP in that thread had a carli sway bar and I’ll go out on a limb and say trail_wagon probably had his disconnected in that photo
I'm the one that did the little right up on Metalcloak install on my Ram.This is what I was questioning about. using metalcloak's Duroflex joint on the rear of a PW radius arm.
https://metalcloak.com/metalcloak-duroflex-joints-suspension-builder-parts.html
Would it work better than the Johnny joint used or the stock joint on a PW radius arm?
Could one of these joints replace the OEM radius arm bushings where it mounts to the axle and give more flex?
Feel vibrations? Through steel balls? You don’t say! But but but .. they said it was just marketing hype @Trail_WagonI'm the one that did the little right up on Metalcloak install on my Ram.
A Johnny Joint uses a steel ball that rotates in a urethane or nitride race. It pivots in all directions but gives no absorption, you can feel paint stripes driving down the road. But in abusive situations they hold up pretty good and easily rebuildable, greaseable along the way to prolong life.
The Metalcloak joint is the same concept except they use a softer Kevlar infused rubber to pivot in, just way more comfortable from a daily driver concept.
I have heim joints on my rock crawlers, super strong but can squeak when they get dirty, aren't sealed so you don't get as good of life span, and you just throw them away instead of rebuilding.
The Metalcloak arms add the 3rd pivot point like the Articulink arms so I am betting that total flex allowed is similar give or take.
I have about 7k miles so far and no noise, play, or any real change so far. Time will tell but with all the Jeeps I build for work on the Metalcloak arms, it is rare to ever get a complaint or rebuild from just normal driving, wheeling, wear and tear. I have done a couple because of all out abuse, customers had a pretty good story in that situation.
I don't think it is going to work easily, but it may be possible. The bushings on the front axle are bonded rubber bushings inside of a metal sleeve. The metal sleeve is then pressed into both the axle housing as well as into the lower half of the OEM arm. Both the Johnny Joint and the Metalcloak joint use a "C" clip to retain the joint in its aftermarket housing. Now, if you took either brand of joint and it's house and machined the outer housing to match the diameter of the OEM bushing we have something to work with. Then either press or weld in this new housing with the aftermarket joint inside.jeepkevin,
Thanks for chiming in.
So can you answer my question?
Do you think the duroflex joints would work better on the OEM PW arms to replace the OEM ones? That is if they have a size that fits.
I know for the rear where it mounts to the frame, it would have to be modified to use an adjustable one similar to the previous posted Johnny joint inst
Sophia original comment about moving the axle that happened for where it was the combat a lift that I totally understand itI would think the 1/2” might help with re centering your axle after leveling/lifting. Wasn’t that kinda the rule of thumb with 3rd gens after a leveling kit to really center everything was 1/2” long control arms. I know the suspensions are different long arm/short arm vs radius arm but I feel the concept is the same.
Lifting the suspension but keeping the radius arm/ links the same pulls the axle back, even if it’s just slightly. Everyone combats this by adjusting their caster but this seems to be a simple fix to that.
Now I’m no engineer nor do I have much background in building or racing suspensions, so if I’m missing something let me know.
In terms of noise, vibration, and harshness being transmitted into the cabin.... there is no difference on any terrain, on or off road.Trail wagon,
Thanks for the info.
Little clarification.
Are you saying there is no difference on road?
Or no difference period, doesn't matter the terrain?
Any difference in articulation?
Yes, the front sway bar was disconnected and the rear sway bar has been removed. The truck is also teetering on two wheels in that pic.@Lumpskie could that difference be in solely having the sway bar disconnected? The OP in that thread had a carli sway bar and I’ll go out on a limb and say trail_wagon probably had his disconnected in that photo
I use mine off road in Baja and soon to be in northern Nevada. Not just a mall crawler. Several other PW owners use theirs as well. And lots of videos on youtube of PWs hitting the hard trails in MOAB.I mean really at the end of the day most of the wagons are mall crawlers like mine. We will all be fine. Haha
That's a pretty freaking slick idea. My only wish is they were easier to lock in place, looks like I'd have to drop down into the dirt/mud/snow and wrench that open and closed.Came across this product. Its intended application is to replace one of the upper control arms on their 4 link Y arms.
They have animations and such so I won’t try to explain it too much.
Lock-N-Load Replacement Upper Arm for Radius Suspension, Ram 2500 ('14 - Current)
The Patented MetalCloak Lock-n-Load™ Upper Control Arm for the RAM Game Changer Radius Arm Suspension (metalcloakpatents.com) is precision engineered to solve a common problem with radius arm suspensions: Bind Features Include: Bolt On Installation Eliminates Radius Arm Bind Dual-Purpose...metalcloak.com
The thread with 1 reply?You're a bit late to the party. Theres actually a thread on them on this website.