I took the back off my factory key and transferred it to the new one. Now it's atleast half branded.No thread really, just came up in one someone said they couldn't pull the PIN.
Unable to pull the pin
I had a locksmith out today to program my new key fobs. He was unable to pull the pin to program them. I left my bypass cable plugged into the CAN blocks but left the rest unplugged, rolled up, and tucked away under the dash. Could this have been the reason why he couldn't pull the pin?hdrams.com
If you can use AlfaOBD without bricking your truck, you can surely do this simple procedure.
Only thing I noticed on these FOB is they don't have the embossed RAM on the Panic button for obvious copyright reasons, and for me at least, no Limited branding on the back side.
- Make sure you have a good internet/data connection on your phone/tablet
- Pull the PIN
- Program the FOB(s)
My son currently works for a Mopar dealership, so the key blanks will get cut for free soon.
runs to check the key fit...I took the back off my factory key and transferred it to the new one. Now it's atleast half branded.
I did notice you can't swap the actual key. It won't latch in the new fob.
Thank you Sir!She’s a bute Clark!! How’s about rolling out them other ones out of the shed and throwing us a few picks …please.
I would leave it how it is, the molding takes away from the clean lines. Absolutely beautiful truck!!!Gave the "older brother" some much needed love on the passenger side along with a respray of the entire truck.
Question now is ... do I install new black body molding, or leave it as is?
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I would leave it how it is, the molding takes away from the clean lines. Absolutely beautiful truck!!!
I think you need a black belt line to tie the front and rear bumpers together.Gave the "older brother" some much needed love on the passenger side along with a respray of the entire truck.
Question now is ... do I install new black body molding, or leave it as is?
It looks great.Wrapped up my ProMod Bumper Install. To note I would not recommend it, but I got it like 40% price so eh I took the gamble. It's a f-ing IKEA bumper for sure so putting it together just sucks and you need ample patience as well as plenty of swearing. I do like the look and later on I might get something from Chassis Unlimited now that I know I like this look on my truck. It is at-least decently thick plate steel if you compare it to the OE bumper so it'll give me the level of protection I'm after these days, if not again I'll get something sexier from Chassis Unlimited. The skid plate protects the intercooler quite well and it'll do the job keeping rocks/gravel/etc from dinging it up which is really what I was after.
For lights I did the following :
Fogs: DD SS3 Sport Amber SAE Fog Pattern - They're aimed to match the super wide spread of the OE LED fogs and I went sport for two reasons. The sports do not de-rate over time (heat output) and lower power draw being that I'm powering them off the stock fog-light wiring.
Lightbar: 30" Rough Country Spectrum Series - I really couldn't justify something from BD and the price was right on the RC bar. The spectrum series design is very similar to the OE LED reflectors so far as the optics so it matches the truck really well and gives me plenty of extra light for back county road stuff. I have it relayed off the high-beams and powered by an aux switch so if the aux switch is on and I turn on the highs it will engage. I also fused the high beam tap I use to trigger the relay at 1amp to protect the BCM.
I still need to install my SDHQ A Pillar mounts and the white SS3/SSC1 combo I put together for SS3 SAE Driving lights and the small SSC1 floods for work/scene/camping lights. I might get that done tomorrow. The SS3 Driving lights will also be relayed off the highbeams and powered by an aux switch like the lightbar for ease of use on dark backroads. Really been missing the lighting I had on my 4th gen when I'm out in the sticks at night or we go camping so I'm happy to be almost done. All of my DD cubes are also amber backlit so I'll get that wiring finished once I get the A pillar pods on it. Going to prolly do an add-a-circuit from the cab lights if they work the same way they did on the 4th gen, if not I'll trigger a relay using the parking lamp circuit.
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Here you go. It's not too bad, just enough for the lightbar. The downside is that aiming the light bar is a major PIA. You've got to contort your arm in there and you need a smaller allen wrench or hex socket/bit with a high tooth count ratchet.It looks great.
Can you post a picture of it from the side that shows how much it sticks out in front.