Remote start added to 2020 Tradesman (SOLVED)

[H3LZSN1P3R]

If the wire is present at pin 11 on the BCM C1 connector, but there is no hood latch connector, then it terminates at pin 9 of the XY110A in-line connector. Look for it there, instead of trying to get to the BCM first, because if it’s not in the xy110 connector, then you know it’s not at the BCM. The wire is purple with a blue stripe, and you’re looking for it on the female connector half with the lever.

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Sounds like its better to splice it there anyway if you are a bigger guy like me lol

 

[Jgouldski]

Sounds like its better to splice it there anyway if you are a bigger guy like me lol

No kidding! I feel like this should be 1 or 2 extra steps put in the remote start kit instructions. Look for wire at BCM C1 connector. If it's there, connect at the XY110A connector. If not, connect at the BCM C1 connector.

 

[Jgouldski]

If the wire is present at pin 11 on the BCM C1 connector, but there is no hood latch connector, then it terminates at pin 9 of the XY110A in-line connector. Look for it there, instead of trying to get to the BCM first, because if it’s not in the xy110 connector, then you know it’s not at the BCM. The wire is purple with a blue stripe, and you’re looking for it on the female connector half with the lever.

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Is this not the correct connector in my pictures? I'm not able to match any of the wire colors that are listed in the docs for the XY110A connector...

 

[Jimmy07]

Is this not the correct connector in my pictures? I'm not able to match any of the wire colors that are listed in the docs for the XY110A connector...

No, that’s the XY105A connector, and looks similar. The one you’re looking for is light gray.

 

[Jgouldski]

No, that’s the XY105A connector, and looks similar. The one you’re looking for is light gray.

Ugh... Ok well I didn't see anything similar to this plug in the same area, and from the connector location picture it looks like it should be right next to the 105

 

[Jimmy07]

Ugh... Ok well I didn't see anything similar to this plug in the same area, and from the connector location picture it looks like it should be right next to the 105

I think you might have to lift up the fuse box to see that connector.

 

[Ram911]

Did you ever get an answer to uconnect working?

@mostcorey95 said he did. I had a dealer call a STAR tech and was told unless it comes from the factory it will not work thru the app. Uconnect CS said the same thing (called 2 times). I really think they can push some software update to get it enabled. I wish it would work from the APP.

 

[Jgouldski]

I think you might have to lift up the fuse box to see that connector.

Yep you're right. Right up against the underside of the fuse box. Confirmed I do have the purple wire with blue stripe on the female side of the XY110A connector, and no corresponding wire on the male side. Can I simply install the correct pin into pin 9 of the male side and run a wire from it to the hood latch connector and have it work as intended? Or is there more to do at the BCM as well?

 

[Jimmy07]

Yep you're right. Right up against the underside of the fuse box. Confirmed I do have the purple wire with blue stripe on the female side of the XY110A connector, and no corresponding wire on the male side. Can I simply install the correct pin into pin 9 of the male side and run a wire from it to the hood latch connector and have it work as intended? Or is there more to do at the BCM as well?

You could, if you can find the correct terminal for it at a reasonable price. It is Yazaki 7114-4102-02. The cable seal for position 9 is Yazaki 7158-3374-90.

 

[Jgouldski]

You could, if you can find the correct terminal for it at a reasonable price. It is Yazaki 7114-4102-02. The cable seal for position 9 is Yazaki 7158-3374-90.

Ordered both of them from Quest Components. Min order quantity for the terminal was 8 and the seal was 42. It was $25 plus shipping. Figured it was worth it to rig this up more how it was intended from the factory (even if I did have to get way more than I needed), and not a bad price for that many.

 

[Jgouldski]

Holy balls, if you haven't done any soldering with teeny tiny components, soldering those buttons on is touchy as hellllll. I thought I had to use the pointiest, smallest tip I had, but ended up using more of a blade style tip to melt both solder points on one side of the switch at the same time. And the switches I bought from Amazon that a few people have bought, when they're put in place, are at the furthest edges of the little bit of solder so it's a huge PITA to actually touch the solder with the iron and not move the button from the proper position.

Thanks for reading my rant lol. Confirmed tailgate release works. Gonna wire in the hood ajar sensor now and enable it in AlfaOBD, then make sure the remote start button works.

Thanks for the help everyone

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Holy balls, if you haven't done any soldering with teeny tiny components, soldering those buttons on is touchy as hellllll. I thought I had to use the pointiest, smallest tip I had, but ended up using more of a blade style tip to melt both solder points on one side of the switch at the same time. And the switches I bought from Amazon that a few people have bought, when they're put in place, are at the furthest edges of the little bit of solder so it's a huge PITA to actually touch the solder with the iron and not move the button from the proper position.

Thanks for reading my rant lol. Confirmed tailgate release works. Gonna wire in the hood ajar sensor now and enable it in AlfaOBD, then make sure the remote start button works.

Thanks for the help everyone

I just touched the iron to the button contacts and let the contacts heat the solder its easier that way

 

[Jgouldski]

Hood latch connector- molex 34062-0025 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/34062-0025?qs=/ha2pyFadugnuiGvUwEnhncWeZcjt127wYXccCYutsTsiaB%2BAhNr/w==
Hood latch connector Terminal- 34083-2002
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/34083-2002-Loose-Piece?qs=8%2Bu/V6/T1Oq51mg2iuuTuw==
BCM C1 pin 11 terminal- Kostal 32124734123000
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOSTAL/32124734123000-L?qs=W0yvOO0ixfFjDQ0rJ%2BHBUw==

Hood latch connector view for circuit pin out-

You’ll follow the instructions for running the switch sense wire to the BCM, and just ground the sensor ground wire to any chassis bolt close by. These are instructions for a 4th gen, so the route might be slightly different, but the BCM location and connector terminal location is the same and what matters to you. https://www.allmoparparts.com/docs/82215553.pdf

What is the part that the Hood latch connector (molex 34062-0025) plugs in to? I don't have it on my hood latch

 

[Jimmy07]

What is the part that the Hood latch connector (molex 34062-0025) plugs in to? I don't have it on my hood latch

You don’t have the correct hood latch then. You’ll have to buy the latch.

 

[Jgouldski]

You don’t have the correct hood latch then. You’ll have to buy the latch.

Of course. Frustrating though as mine has all the holes and connection points for the other side of the connection, just the connector itself is not there. Best pics I've found have been on this ebay ad. Ordered the latch assembly for about $67 CAD which isn't terrible. Just frustrating that I have to wait for yet another part.

 

[Jgouldski]

You could, if you can find the correct terminal for it at a reasonable price. It is Yazaki 7114-4102-02. The cable seal for position 9 is Yazaki 7158-3374-90.

How do you de-pin the female side of this connector? I tried for a few minutes but didn't get anywhere and I don't want to bend/break anything. Tried searching online, but didn't see any obvious how-to's. I'm installing a resistor while I wait for the new latch to come in, and figured I'd just remove the pin and seal it up with the resistor separate from the connector. Also, to install a pin on the male side, do I just push it into the connector? Or is there something that has to be loosened, unlatched, etc? Haven't gotten it yet, just wondering ahead of time.

The hood latch connector too; does that one just push in?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Jgouldski]

You could, if you can find the correct terminal for it at a reasonable price. It is Yazaki 7114-4102-02. The cable seal for position 9 is Yazaki 7158-3374-90.

How do you de-pin the female side of this connector? I tried for a few minutes but didn't get anywhere and I don't want to bend/break anything. Tried searching online, but didn't see any obvious how-to's. I'm installing a resistor while I wait for the new latch to come in, and figured I'd just remove the pin and seal it up with the resistor separate from the connector. Also, to install a pin on the male side, do I just push it into the connector? Or is there something that has to be loosened, unlatched, etc? Haven't gotten it yet, just wondering ahead of time.

The hood latch connector too; does that one just push in?

Thanks in advance!

I installed the resistor, checked the setting "CBC Config I/O Usage-Connector A Pin 11: Hood Ajar Switch Signal Usage" to make sure it was set to 1k parallel resistor, then changed the setting "CBC Config I/O-Connector A Pin 11: Hood Ajar Switch Input Present" to Yes

But the hood ajar alarm doesn't go away, and of course it doesn't remote start due to the hood ajar alarm (with the EVIC saying remote start sequence cancelled due to hood ajar). When I change the Hood Ajar Switch Input Present setting back to No, the hood ajar alarm goes away but I still cannot remote start. The truck just chirps once and on the EVIC it says to depress the brake and push the start button as if I was about to start the truck normally. Am I missing a setting or something? Or could it just be that there's something wrong with my resistor connection? I have it spliced in to the wire on pin 9 of the XY110A connector (female side). At first, I connected one side of the resistor to the wire, then looped the other side of the resistor back to the wire, thinking that's how you do it (obviously I'm not too experienced at this!). Then I disconnected one side of the resistor and ran a wire from it and terminated it at one of the grounding bolts nearby. Neither way changed things with the hood ajar alarm or the ability to remote start.

I then just ran extra wire from the pin 9 wire to the ground bolt and changed the setting from "1k parallel resistor" to "500 ohm series and 500 ohm parallel resistors". Still no change. Maybe I'm not understanding things correctly, but I understood that either one of these methods should have worked.

Either way, my new hood latch is supposed to be coming in Dec 13 so I've basically given up on installing the workaround.

 

[Jimmy07]

I installed the resistor, checked the setting "CBC Config I/O Usage-Connector A Pin 11: Hood Ajar Switch Signal Usage" to make sure it was set to 1k parallel resistor, then changed the setting "CBC Config I/O-Connector A Pin 11: Hood Ajar Switch Input Present" to Yes

But the hood ajar alarm doesn't go away, and of course it doesn't remote start due to the hood ajar alarm (with the EVIC saying remote start sequence cancelled due to hood ajar). When I change the Hood Ajar Switch Input Present setting back to No, the hood ajar alarm goes away but I still cannot remote start. The truck just chirps once and on the EVIC it says to depress the brake and push the start button as if I was about to start the truck normally. Am I missing a setting or something? Or could it just be that there's something wrong with my resistor connection? I have it spliced in to the wire on pin 9 of the XY110A connector (female side). At first, I connected one side of the resistor to the wire, then looped the other side of the resistor back to the wire, thinking that's how you do it (obviously I'm not too experienced at this!). Then I disconnected one side of the resistor and ran a wire from it and terminated it at one of the grounding bolts nearby. Neither way changed things with the hood ajar alarm or the ability to remote start.

I then just ran extra wire from the pin 9 wire to the ground bolt and changed the setting from "1k parallel resistor" to "500 ohm series and 500 ohm parallel resistors". Still no change. Maybe I'm not understanding things correctly, but I understood that either one of these methods should have worked.

Either way, my new hood latch is supposed to be coming in Dec 13 so I've basically given up on installing the workaround.

The truck needs to be driven over 30mph before remote start will work once it’s enabled.

 

[Jgouldski]

The truck needs to be driven over 30mph before remote start will work once it’s enabled.

Daaaamn, didn't realize that. I have just been taking it for a drive around my subdivision thinking that would be fine. 30mph in my neck of the woods is just over 48kph lol. Pretty sure I wouldn't be going faster than that around the subdivision, but since then I definitely have gone over that on various trips into town. I currently have the switch input present setting at yes though so I'll need to change that, and check where I left the switch signal usage setting. Once I change/check settings I'll take it for a drive again (>30mph) and see if that does it....

Thanks for helping this inexperienced idiot lol

 

[Christofo]

Daaaamn, didn't realize that. I have just been taking it for a drive around my subdivision thinking that would be fine. 30mph in my neck of the woods is just over 48kph lol. Pretty sure I wouldn't be going faster than that around the subdivision, but since then I definitely have gone over that on various trips into town. I currently have the switch input present setting at yes though so I'll need to change that, and check where I left the switch signal usage setting. Once I change/check settings I'll take it for a drive again (>30mph) and see if that does it....

Thanks for helping this inexperienced idiot lol

Any update?

I grounded pin 9 and changed the setting to "500 ohm series and 500 ohm parallel resistors". I get the hood ajar alert on the dash. Drove it into town and back, the alert never went away. I just ordered some 1k resistors to try next.