Lumpskie's Prospector (Diesel Power Wagon) Build

[Lumpskie]

Well, here we go... arms are swapped. In my brief ride home, things feel pretty similar. If anything, it might feel like the suspension is a little less rigid... almost like if I had a softer swaybar. (maybe that's just my mind playing with me)

 

[Lumpskie]

So, I'm reading that the stock jack doesn't work with 37s. What do you all recommend as a jack to carry in the vehicle? While I'm at it... what are you guys using for tool kits? I'm thinking of a tool roll or box with a solid set up basic tools for repair. (thinking ratchet/socket set, combination wrenches, screw drivers, etc.) Are there unique tools that are handy on a Cummins 2500? (10, 12, 14, 17 and 18 socket will remove 90% of the HW on a Toyota) What are you guys running?

 

[el_barto]

So, I'm reading that the stock jack doesn't work with 37s. What do you all recommend as a jack to carry in the vehicle? While I'm at it... what are you guys using for tool kits? I'm thinking of a tool roll or box with a solid set up basic tools for repair. (thinking ratchet/socket set, combination wrenches, screw drivers, etc.) Are there unique tools that are handy on a Cummins 2500? (10, 12, 14, 17 and 18 socket will remove 90% of the HW on a Toyota) What are you guys running?

Just toss a couple small 4x4 blocks in your truck if you’re concerned the Jack will be too short. AEV sells a plastic block that goes under the Jack for Jeeps, not sure if it would work with our Jack or not though And remember to Jack on the axle not the frame so you don’t have to lift thru the whole suspension droop.

For tools, I’d start with a good ratchet, metric sockets, torx sockets, trim removal tool, screwdrivers or driver bits and socket (1/4”), tiny Flathead screwdriver (for d/c electrical connectors), channellocks.

I’m hesitant to suggest a set of wrenches because they are heavy and take a lot it space but often they don’t fit, and adjustable wrenches are usually dogshit. I do like my Knipex Pliers-wrench because it’s adjustable and gives you solid grip so you can actually apply torque. If I were to add wrenches I’d add ratcheting type

 

[MtnRider]

So, I'm reading that the stock jack doesn't work with 37s. What do you all recommend as a jack to carry in the vehicle? While I'm at it... what are you guys using for tool kits? I'm thinking of a tool roll or box with a solid set up basic tools for repair. (thinking ratchet/socket set, combination wrenches, screw drivers, etc.) Are there unique tools that are handy on a Cummins 2500? (10, 12, 14, 17 and 18 socket will remove 90% of the HW on a Toyota) What are you guys running?

Got to be honest, there isn't much you can fix with a set of wrenches on these trucks now days. First of all they are pretty mechanically sound but when they do break it's usually nothing you are going to fix with a bag of tools. Being able to change a flat is probably your biggest concern. Maybe some sort of code reader that can clear codes as well? I carry a small bag of tools with just a few items like a screw driver, duct tape, adjustable wrench etc but those are used mostly for fixing stuff off the truck (chin strap on kids football helmet comes loose at a game etc.).


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[UglyViking]

I agree with @MtnRider, very little you're gonna fix on your own, especially if you don't have parts on the side of the road. Ability to view and clear codes is close to a must, as is ability to change/fix a flat. Beyond that, I'd check around and look at the things that generally go wrong with these trucks that would prevent you from getting to a place to fix it. Outside of the whole cp4 issue and potential issues with the emission system you're really pretty good to go.

Tow trucks can be had pretty quickly through most of new England so it's mostly a convince or off road concern.

For myself, I keep a code scanner, duck tape, zip ties in the truck. From there I now keep a small wrench to tighten/loosen the cap I just got. I also keep a socket for the intake and a fresh filter, thinking that the primary concern there is a snow packed intake, at least I could theoretically clear and fix to get me on my way.

If you've got the space I find a bit of extra diesel is never a bad thing to have.

 

[jadmt]

I have an AEV base and it works but I am so spoiled by actual floor jacks I never use the oem jack. knock on wood never had to either.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

So, I'm reading that the stock jack doesn't work with 37s. What do you all recommend as a jack to carry in the vehicle? While I'm at it... what are you guys using for tool kits? I'm thinking of a tool roll or box with a solid set up basic tools for repair. (thinking ratchet/socket set, combination wrenches, screw drivers, etc.) Are there unique tools that are handy on a Cummins 2500? (10, 12, 14, 17 and 18 socket will remove 90% of the HW on a Toyota) What are you guys running?

Jack extender

Aka piece of 4x4 lumber cut into brick size

 

[RAM Stag]

I have wanted a Cummins powered Power Wagon for a long time. So, I figured I'd try to make something that would fit the bill. I recently bought a used 2020 AEV Prospector. On pavement, this thing is amazing.... I can cruise 90mph in total comfort and the handling is amazing. Off pavement, it has too much roll stiffness (and too high a spring rate) for my taste. My hope is to slowly morph this rig to be Power Wagon like off pavement, without sacrificing its on pavement characteristics. I'd like to keep the truck like capabilities while enhancing 4 wheeling capability. Overall, I'm willing to sacrifice off road capability to maintain the feel of the truck on road.

Here's what I started with: 2020 Prospector 2500, Laramie trim.

 

[Lumpskie]

Just toss a couple small 4x4 blocks in your truck if you’re concerned the Jack will be too short. AEV sells a plastic block that goes under the Jack for Jeeps, not sure if it would work with our Jack or not though And remember to Jack on the axle not the frame so you don’t have to lift thru the whole suspension droop.

For tools, I’d start with a good ratchet, metric sockets, torx sockets, trim removal tool, screwdrivers or driver bits and socket (1/4”), tiny Flathead screwdriver (for d/c electrical connectors), channellocks.

I’m hesitant to suggest a set of wrenches because they are heavy and take a lot it space but often they don’t fit, and adjustable wrenches are usually dogshit. I do like my Knipex Pliers-wrench because it’s adjustable and gives you solid grip so you can actually apply torque. If I were to add wrenches I’d add ratcheting type

Thanks for all the replies, you guys. ( @el_barto , @MtnRider , @UglyViking , @jadmt , @Rockcrawlerdude )

Thanks for the info on a starter kit. I have to admit that the idea of not being able to fix the truck if it breaks is a little scary... but that might be a testament to the build quality on these things... I am probably not going to keep all these tools in the truck for going to church or the store. But, I am hoping to visit the North Maine Woods this fall and do more exploration. (pending CP4 replacement) So, having some basic tools would give me peace of mind there. I have a code reader... that's a great idea to include. I didn't realize that all the fasteners were metric. I am guessing a few basic 200 piece craftsman set (or similar) along with pliers, screw drivers, pry bar, hammer/mallet duct tape, etc.

 

[el_barto]

Thanks for all the replies, you guys. ( @el_barto , @MtnRider , @UglyViking , @jadmt , @Rockcrawlerdude )

Thanks for the info on a starter kit. I have to admit that the idea of not being able to fix the truck if it breaks is a little scary... but that might be a testament to the build quality on these things... I am probably not going to keep all these tools in the truck for going to church or the store. But, I am hoping to visit the North Maine Woods this fall and do more exploration. (pending CP4 replacement) So, having some basic tools would give me peace of mind there. I have a code reader... that's a great idea to include. I didn't realize that all the fasteners were metric. I am guessing a few basic 200 piece craftsman set (or similar) along with pliers, screw drivers, pry bar, hammer/mallet duct tape, etc.

US cars have had metric fasteners for like 30 years lol

200 piece tool kit seems overkill…probably a lot of pieces that are “duplicates”…consider what type of repairs you might make and what tools are really needed… my tool kit fits in a small “pencil bag” sized pouch that lives in the Ram Bin.

I also keep a funnel, a quart of oil, FiberFix, and high temp silicone repair tape.

 

[flan]

Thanks for all the replies, you guys. ( @el_barto , @MtnRider , @UglyViking , @jadmt , @Rockcrawlerdude )

Thanks for the info on a starter kit. I have to admit that the idea of not being able to fix the truck if it breaks is a little scary... but that might be a testament to the build quality on these things... I am probably not going to keep all these tools in the truck for going to church or the store. But, I am hoping to visit the North Maine Woods this fall and do more exploration. (pending CP4 replacement) So, having some basic tools would give me peace of mind there. I have a code reader... that's a great idea to include. I didn't realize that all the fasteners were metric. I am guessing a few basic 200 piece craftsman set (or similar) along with pliers, screw drivers, pry bar, hammer/mallet duct tape, etc.

Going to find the ghost trains? That’s on my bucket list!

 

[Lumpskie]

US cars have had metric fasteners for like 30 years lol

200 piece tool kit seems overkill…probably a lot of pieces that are “duplicates”…consider what type of repairs you might make and what tools are really needed… my tool kit fits in a small “pencil bag” sized pouch that lives in the Ram Bin.

I also keep a funnel, a quart of oil, FiberFix, and high temp silicone repair tape.

Hey, my only other US vehicle is a 1989 Grand Wagoneer! I'm still new to this modern domestic stuff, haha! (Until I bought this, I was still daily driving my diesel swapped 80 series Land Cruiser) Great ideas on fiberFix and silicone repair tape.

 

[Lumpskie]

Going to find the ghost trains? That’s on my bucket list!

Yes sir. I want to see the Ghost trains, the B52 crash site, Debsconeag Ice Caves, Ripogenous Gorge and whatever I can squeeze into an 8-10 day trip! I even have an idea for a custom tent setup... if I take the Ram. I don't think I'd feel comfortable going super remote with the CP4 pump though... so that's kind of a hang up. Hoping I can get the new (CP3.3?) pump and some run time before this fall.

 

[flan]

Yes sir. I want to see the Ghost trains, the B52 crash site, Debsconeag Ice Caves, Ripogenous Gorge and whatever I can squeeze into an 8-10 day trip! I even have an idea for a custom tent setup... if I take the Ram. I don't think I'd feel comfortable going super remote with the CP4 pump though... so that's kind of a hang up. Hoping I can get the new (CP3.3?) pump and some run time before this fall.

We camped about 30min south of Greenville 2 years ago and visited the B52 memorial, also headed into the NMW on the kokadjo side and hiked little kineo mountain but didn’t get time to explore much past that. There’s tons of great roads to travel in there we did some light wheeling on the way out and had fun.

 

[Lumpskie]

We camped about 30min south of Greenville 2 years ago and visited the B52 memorial, also headed into the NMW on the kokadjo side and hiked little kineo mountain but didn’t get time to explore much past that. There’s tons of great roads to travel in there we did some light wheeling on the way out and had fun.

We need to talk! Mind if I shoot you a PM?

 

[flan]

We need to talk! Mind if I shoot you a PM?

Not at all

 

[Lumpskie]

So, I swapped my fuel filter and water separator filter out. The dealer did this change last, according to paperwork from the previous owner. I was really surprised by how hard it was to unscrew the under-hood filter cap. I had to use my full size breaker bar to get it off. (I was scared I was going to break something) Once I got the cap off, I noticed that the rubber o ring was totally dry. I'm guessing the dealer over torqued it and didn't lube it. (Directions on the Mopar filter said to lube with clean oil) Have you guys run across this? Think I will be easier next time? (I question whether I'd be able to get through it without damage again, if it's stuck on that tight again)

 

[G Mcpherson]

I had the same issue on my first change. With using some oil on the O Ring it was easier the following times.

 

[UglyViking]

So, I swapped my fuel filter and water separator filter out. The dealer did this change last, according to paperwork from the previous owner. I was really surprised by how hard it was to unscrew the under-hood filter cap. I had to use my full size breaker bar to get it off. (I was scared I was going to break something) Once I got the cap off, I noticed that the rubber o ring was totally dry. I'm guessing the dealer over torqued it and didn't lube it. (Directions on the Mopar filter said to lube with clean oil) Have you guys run across this? Think I will be easier next time? (I question whether I'd be able to get through it without damage again, if it's stuck on that tight again)

I've only done one change so far as my truck is still a baby at 20k miles. I'm willing to bet anything it was just massively over torqued. It's def a challenge to get off for sure, I think partly due to it being plastic or some composite, but it wasn't overly hard.

The greater surprise here was that you're supposed to lube the o-ring with clean oil, I thought surely this must be the oil filter you're talking about, but sure enough the diesel supplement manual says the same thing. I get the lube for the o-ring but I'm sort of surprised considering the potential for contamination in the fuel system. Either way, I'm guessing you'll be fine next go around so long as you torqued it to spec.

It's funny you mention the ghost trains and b52, both are on my list of hopeful for this year in the late summer months/early fall if I can swing the time. There is another HD owner down in MA with a power wagon who has expressed interest as well. Maybe we can get a little cadre of ram HDs to go take a little trip.

 

[Lumpskie]

I had the same issue on my first change. With using some oil on the O Ring it was easier the following times.

I'm glad it wasnt' just me that had the issue... I was seriously wondering if I was going to strip out that cap or crack it.

I've only done one change so far as my truck is still a baby at 20k miles. I'm willing to bet anything it was just massively over torqued. It's def a challenge to get off for sure, I think partly due to it being plastic or some composite, but it wasn't overly hard.

The greater surprise here was that you're supposed to lube the o-ring with clean oil, I thought surely this must be the oil filter you're talking about, but sure enough the diesel supplement manual says the same thing. I get the lube for the o-ring but I'm sort of surprised considering the potential for contamination in the fuel system. Either way, I'm guessing you'll be fine next go around so long as you torqued it to spec.

It's funny you mention the ghost trains and b52, both are on my list of hopeful for this year in the late summer months/early fall if I can swing the time. There is another HD owner down in MA with a power wagon who has expressed interest as well. Maybe we can get a little cadre of ram HDs to go take a little trip.

Yeah, I was surprised to see the oil used as well. (I was considering putting a dielectric grease or something in there to lube it. It reminds me of my house water filter in terms of the housing and I keep that filter lubed with petroleum jelly) Also, I am totally game to do an HD truck outing to the North Maine Woods! Being that you have a 2019... what are your thoughts on going up there, if we don't get our CP4s warrantied first?