Let’s see your wagons with 35 and 37’s

[Rockcrawlindude]

Here you go. Including the front bumper as well.

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Very nice. Looks beastly. I looked at the expedition one bumper and emailed them back and forth a few times while I was shopping around.

any pics of the whole truck, from further back? How much payload do you have left now?

 

[TrailWhale]

Here you go. Including the front bumper as well.

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Thanks!

What's your honest opinion of the rear bumper with the swingout after owning it? How much of the rear view is obstructed, back up cameras/sensors work fine? The departure angle doesn't seem to be affected but man, the extra length of the truck looks noticeable!

Have you had any problems from the parking sensors or adaptive cruise (if you have it)? I like the Exp1 bumpers but not many people out there actually run them that can answer questions

 

[Eatonpcat]

Sweet truck!!

 

[pdavey]

Thanks!

What's your honest opinion of the rear bumper with the swingout after owning it? How much of the rear view is obstructed, back up cameras/sensors work fine? The departure angle doesn't seem to be affected but man, the extra length of the truck looks noticeable!

Have you had any problems from the parking sensors or adaptive cruise (if you have it)? I like the Exp1 bumpers but not many people out there actually run them that can answer questions

It would definitely give more credo to your screen name . It does add a bit more length to the truck. About 2-3 feet if you count the tire.

I relocated the rear view camera to the license plate area with the provided relocation bracket so rear view and surround still works fine, just have to get used to the new perspective (lower)

I love the rear bumper and swing arm. The biggest thing for me was gaining full use of the bed back. A 35 and now 37 inch tire takes up a ton of room in the bed.

The swing arms are built really well and I enjoy the more rugged look of the truck.

For those that don't need the swing arms the bumper without the swing arms is much better. Over stock bumpers you gain about 3 inches on your departure angle. Hitch ends up being the lowest point now.

The bumpers accommodate all the factory sensors and they work well.

Cross path detection still works just fine as well.

Overall I would recommend these bumpers. They are built really well. You will add about 250 lbs to your truck in total with these bumpers over stock.

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[AnthonyD1978]

This (in red) is not accurate.

When you bolt two flanges together, the bolts are simply applying the clamping force. That clamping force multiplied by the surface area of the mating surfaces is where you get the strength between the two flanges. The bolts are only seeing load in the clamping direction, they’re not seeing any rotational torque at all. (Unless your lug nuts come loose and then your studs will break very quickly) That’s why you need a specific torque value evenly applied to the flanges to seat them together perfectly.

This principle applies whether it’s wheels on hubs or driveshafts with flanges. The four 10mm bolts that bolt a driveshaft to the output flange aren’t what is transferring the power.

I will agree that Hub centric Is better than lug centric but not because of strength, it’s because is centers the wheel better (tire shops can balance them easier). Most aftermarket wheels are lug centric and they are just fine.

the reason wheel spacers are mostly bad is because of many reasons.
1. they’re usually aluminum, if you over torque them, you end up with lug nuts that don’t stay tight or wiggly studs
2. You’re increasing force on the wheel bearings by putting additional leverage on them
3. You’re stacking tolerances
4. Typically people are putting a lug centric wheel on a lug centric spacer (see stacking tolerances)
5. Or, Even worse, a hub centric wheel on a lug centric spacer
6. They’re usually cheap quality

Here we go

I agree with your points on rotational TQ, but I'm not concerned about rotation TQ or clamping/horizontal forces at all. We'll have to disagree that a lug centric wheel alone does not have to support more vertical forces on the studs than when a hubcentric wheel/spacer is used. Otherwise the bean counters at the OEM would just use hubcentric lugs and not both.

the reason wheel spacers are mostly bad is because of many reasons.
1. they’re usually aluminum, if you over torque them, you end up with lug nuts that don’t stay tight or wiggly studs
Sounds like user error to me. For you to over TQ the steel studs and warp the aluminum spacer would require a lot of TQ. These same people over TQ their factory studs and end up stretching those too.
2. You’re increasing force on the wheel bearings by putting additional leverage on them
The same if you run a lower offset wheel like almost everyone does when going aftermarket wheels.
3. You’re stacking tolerances
True, but as long as you don't cheap out on the spacers it shouldn't be an issue. I wouldn't feel any more safe when relying on the tolerances of 32 individual lug nuts and an aftermarket wheel that is not hubcentric. Again, OEM does lug centric wheels (conical lugs) with a hubcentric wheel.
4. Typically people are putting a lug centric wheel on a lug centric spacer (see stacking tolerances)
By lug centric I assume you mean spacers with built in studs. I don't see the extra concern over the other points made here. Other than people going with cheap ones because these tend to cost more money.
5. Or, Even worse, a hub centric wheel on a lug centric spacer
I don't see the extra concern over the other points made here.
6. They’re usually cheap quality
User error. Good spacer with tight tolerances and good hardware will cost you ~$500+ a set.

The problem is when people cheap out on spacers and the proper hardware. Make sure they are hubcentric and use longer studs where appropriate. If you use spacers with built-in studs make sure the spacer is the correct thickness to support having built-in studs. Maybe the most important thing, no matter what route you go, is make sure you TQ to spec! I've never had issues and doing 120mph+ around a right hander over rough track is not where I want to have a stud fail.

We will probably just have to agree to disagree lol.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

Here we go

I agree with your points on rotational TQ, but I'm not concerned about rotation TQ or clamping/horizontal forces at all. We'll have to disagree that a lug centric wheel alone does not have to support more vertical forces on the studs than when a hubcentric wheel/spacer is used. Otherwise the bean counters at the OEM would just use hubcentric lugs and not both.

the reason wheel spacers are mostly bad is because of many reasons.
1. they’re usually aluminum, if you over torque them, you end up with lug nuts that don’t stay tight or wiggly studs
Sounds like user error to me. For you to over TQ the steel studs and warp the aluminum spacer would require a lot of TQ. These same people over TQ their factory studs and end up stretching those too.
2. You’re increasing force on the wheel bearings by putting additional leverage on them
The same if you run a lower offset wheel like almost everyone does when going aftermarket wheels.
3. You’re stacking tolerances
True, but as long as you don't cheap out on the spacers it shouldn't be an issue. I wouldn't feel any more safe when relying on the tolerances of 32 individual lug nuts and an aftermarket wheel that is not hubcentric. Again, OEM does lug centric wheels (conical lugs) with a hubcentric wheel.
4. Typically people are putting a lug centric wheel on a lug centric spacer (see stacking tolerances)
By lug centric I assume you mean spacers with built in studs. I don't see the extra concern over the other points made here. Other than people going with cheap ones because these tend to cost more money.
5. Or, Even worse, a hub centric wheel on a lug centric spacer
I don't see the extra concern over the other points made here.
6. They’re usually cheap quality
User error. Good spacer with tight tolerances and good hardware will cost you ~$500+ a set.

The problem is when people cheap out on spacers and the proper hardware. Make sure they are hubcentric and use longer studs where appropriate. If you use spacers with built-in studs make sure the spacer is the correct thickness to support having built-in studs. Maybe the most important thing, no matter what route you go, is make sure you TQ to spec! I've never had issues and doing 120mph+ around a right hander over rough track is not where I want have a stud fail.

We will probably just have to agree to disagree lol.

I think we pretty much agree

unless I missed something we both think:
Hub centric is better
Wheel spacers are less than ideal

As i said, the reason hub centric is better is because of the centering. It’s easier and more repeatable to give you perfect balance out of the box. That’s why OEMs use hub centric.

The lug nuts and studs are giving you the same clamping force in both applications and they have the same strength if they have the same surface mating area

 

[AnthonyD1978]

I think we pretty much agree

unless I missed something we both think:
Hub centric is better
Wheel spacers are less than ideal

As i said, the reason hub centric is better is because of the centering. It’s easier and more repeatable to give you perfect balance out of the box. That’s why OEMs use hub centric.

The lug nuts and studs are giving you the same clamping force in both applications and they have the same strength if they have the same surface mating area

Agreed. The best option is not to have to use them, but if you decide to use them then make sure you do your research on how to do it proper.

 

[TrailWhale]

It would definitely give more credo to your screen name . It does add a bit more length to the truck. About 2-3 feet if you count the tire.

I relocated the rear view camera to the license plate area with the provided relocation bracket so rear view and surround still works fine, just have to get used to the new perspective (lower)

I love the rear bumper and swing arm. The biggest thing for me was gaining full use of the bed back. A 35 and now 37 inch tire takes up a ton of room in the bed.

The swing arms are built really well and I enjoy the more rugged look of the truck.

For those that don't need the swing arms the bumper without the swing arms is much better. Over stock bumpers you gain about 3 inches on your departure angle. Hitch ends up being the lowest point now.

The bumpers accommodate all the factory sensors and they work well.

Cross path detection still works just fine as well.

Overall I would recommend these bumpers. They are built really well. You will add about 250 lbs to your truck in total with these bumpers over stock.

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Do you work for Expedition One?

Most reviews seem to at least have something negative to say about the swing out but I liked everything you typed. Guess it’s time to save some pennies!

 

[pdavey]

Definitely don't work for them. Took me almost 5 months to get my bumpers.

They could use some pointers in follow up.

That said they build a great product.

There are a lot more for the new gens that you can consider as well. This is only one mans musings.

The swing arms are great but I can see how folks can install them incorrectly. You need to know a bit about mechanics and packing bearings and a 32 MM socket.

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[el_barto]

This thread is getting light on photos. Here’s a fresh pic from this evening to improve the photo:discussion ratio . 315/70/17s

 

[AnthonyD1978]

I forgot to post this pic here.

 

[pdavey]

Upgraded to 37s today. Here is the before and after.

Went with AEV Salta rims. Can confirm they are clearing 37x12.50r17 Cooper STT Pros with ease. The tires are 13.3 inches wide by spec.

Very happy with the look of 37s on the PW. Should have come from the factory this way.

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[Eatonpcat]

That's Nice!!

 

[whitexc]

Sure is. Any rub?

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[pdavey]

No rub at all on control arms or suspension components.

I have a small rub on the lower plastic bulge on the passenger side where the lug of the tire at the right angle of turn is contacting.

Going to likely heat up the plastic and reform it to not bulge. Will take a picture later today.

Obviously it a big deal and more obnoxious then anything bad

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[pdavey]

On another note if anyone knows someone in the VA, NC, MD or WV area that would like to buy my PW Rims and Tires feel free to PM me.

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[Russty__]

Any one running 18s with 35s?

 

[Jfconnor01]

Threw on some 35/1250/17 Toyos when I first bought it. Will most definitely level the truck and throw on some 37s once these wear out.

 

[Gooutnsurf]

35" Duratracs: View attachment 2950

What’s the offset and any rub?

 

[Gooutnsurf]

20” Vision rocker wearing a 35x11.5 nitto ridge grappler almost 0 offset. I have stuffed them at full travel no rub. It gets where I need it to go very well. The nittos are great tires.

What’s the wheel width on the 20s?