Also on a related note. If you get aftermarket wheels that are not center bore specific for your vehicle then you are essentially adding a simple spacer to your hub. You're vehicle is now completely relying on your wheel studs to support your vehicle weight. These are the same people that are against wheel spacers. That's why AEV makes their wheels with a center bore that is vehicle specific (at least I hope they do).
This (in red) is not accurate.
When you bolt two flanges together, the bolts are simply applying the clamping force. That clamping force multiplied by the surface area of the mating surfaces is where you get the strength between the two flanges. The bolts are only seeing load in the clamping direction, they’re not seeing any rotational torque at all. (Unless your lug nuts come loose and then your studs will break very quickly) That’s why you need a specific torque value evenly applied to the flanges to seat them together perfectly.
This principle applies whether it’s wheels on hubs or driveshafts with flanges. The four 10mm bolts that bolt a driveshaft to the output flange aren’t what is transferring the power.
I will agree that Hub centric Is better than lug centric but not because of strength, it’s because is centers the wheel better (tire shops can balance them easier). Most aftermarket wheels are lug centric and they are just fine.
the reason wheel spacers are mostly bad is because of many reasons.
1. they’re usually aluminum, if you over torque them, you end up with lug nuts that don’t stay tight or wiggly studs
2. You’re increasing force on the wheel bearings by putting additional leverage on them
3. You’re stacking tolerances
4. Typically people are putting a lug centric wheel on a lug centric spacer (see stacking tolerances)
5. Or, Even worse, a hub centric wheel on a lug centric spacer
6. They’re usually cheap quality
. lol
. 