In Cab Power FAQ -- AUX Switch power info -- Chassis power info

[Brutal_HO]

This is a roll-up thread that should answer most if not all questions regarding power availability in the cab.

A lot of the credit for technical detail goes to @Jimmy07 without whose help and guidance much of this info would be hard to assemble.
There are other contributors, you know who you are. If you recognize a photo as one of yours, shoot me a PM and I'll add the credit.

All trucks

BAT+ 12V Constant power:

1. Driver side under the dash panel. Red wire in connector (need reference and image) Pin #
   1. This is power for the overhead tailgate release button (if equipped) but present on all trucks. It's a 10A fused circuit only draw is for tailgate release.
   2. If equipped with the overhead tailgate release, this same Red wire has 12V constant power on the button connector.
2. High current power is available at the HAPP under the hood - (post #7) https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/in-cab-power-faq.9711/post-181308

IGN/ACC 12V

1. Passenger Side under the dash end panel. Pink/Yellow wire in Connector / Pin # (need reference and image)
   • This wire is present in the overhead if you have at least an auto dim mirror.

Other power sources

1. The top of dash 12V port is defaulted to BAT+ 12V but is controlled by the fuse in location F90/F91 and can be set for IGN.
2. The connector plugged into the rear USB ports has both battery power and acc. The pink/yellow wire is acc, (same circuit as mirror) and the red wire is battery.
3. If you have the wireless charger, it also has pink/yellow acc power.
4. Under hood RUN/ACC, BAT power:
   • PDC Connector C5, Pin 7 = Circuit F781 PK/YE, 10A (F65) - (USB Charging Port, Wireless Charging Module and the Invertor Module)
   • PDC Connector C7, Pin 9 = Circuit F986 PK/YE, 20A (F90/91) - User selectable IGN/BAT

F65	/	ATR (Micro2)	10 Amp Red	MOD Inverter (Wake Up) / Power Port / USB IP / WCPM – If Equipped (HD Only) Spare (DS 1500 Only)
F80	/	ATR (Micro2)	10 Amp Red	Universal Garage Door Opener / Compass / Anti-Intrusion Module (DS 1500 Only) ASSY Overhead Console / SW Assist / SW 911 – If Equipped (HD Only)
F90/F91	/	ATR (Micro2)	20 Amp Yellow	IGN or BATT Customer Selectable – If Equipped (HD Only) Power Outlet (Rear Seats) Customer Selectable (DS 1500 Only)
F104	/	ATR (Micro2)	20 Amp Yellow	Power Outlets (Instrument Panel / Center Console) / Trunk – If Equipped (DS 1500 Only) UCI Port / USB Rear (HD Only)

---

For trucks equipped with Aux switches

​

1. There is a light gray jumper D2621A above the e-brake near the firewall that has BAT+ and IGN in addition to one or more pass through circuits depending on model year.
   • Pass thru circuits are present in the AUX plugs under the hood.
     • G425 VT/YE
   • MY 21+ have 4 additional circuits on D2433A terminated on blunt cut wires near the PDC (see below)
   • W550 BG/GY shown in the image below is not present on 2019-2020 trucks. This is a 21+ added pass-thru.
     
     
     
     
     .
2. For 21+ trucks with Aux switches there is an additional white jumper D2433A with 3 pass through circuits that terminate at blunt cut wires near the PDC along with W550.
   • W547 BG/DB
   • W548 BG/BN
   • W549 BG/DG
     
     
     

---

Further details regarding AUX Switches - (post #5): https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/in-cab-power-faq.9711/post-181297

 

[Brutal_HO]

Left dash BAT power details

12V BAT on the Red wire in connector (need reference and image) Pin #

To build a T-harness (2022+)

Female connector- 7287-3260-30​

Female sockets (4)- 7116-4270-02​

Female sockets (2)- 7116-4780-02​

Female sockets (18)- 7116-7277-02​

Male connector- 7286-6779-30​

Male pins (4)- 7114-4110-02​

Male pins (2)- 7114-4100-02​

Male pins (18)- 1924968-1 (this part is TE Connectivity)​

To build a T-harness (2019-2021)

 

[Brutal_HO]

Q: What is this wire connector?
A: Rambox lights and inverter switch (needs confirmation)

 

[Brutal_HO]

Q: How do I pull my 12" screen center stack?

A:

Two screws under the top cubby rubber pad.

Give it a sharp but short yank from the top cubby. It's surrounded by plastic clips.

Make sure you protect the screen (towel on column shifter if equipped.

 

[Brutal_HO]

In Cab Power For trucks equipped with Aux switches

Aux Pass through wiring thread: https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/aux-pass-thru-wiring.2936/post-41496
Aux Switches thread: https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/aux-switches.97/

Awesome easy to understand video by @thestuarts on AUX switches.

1. There is a light gray jumper D2621A above the e-brake near the firewall that has BAT+ and IGN in addition to one or more pass through circuits depending on model year.
   • Pass thru circuits are present in the AUX plugs under the hood. MY 21+ have 4 additional circuits terminated on blunt cut wires near the PDC
   • W550 shown in the image below is not present on 2019-2020 trucks.
     
     
     
     
     .

​

1. For 21+ trucks with Aux switches the white connector D2433A (black jumper plug) shown in the images above and below adds 3 pass through circuits that terminate at blunt cut wires near the PDC. The 19-20 trucks use this connector only for PTO control (pins 2-3)
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

---

Q: What comes in the AUX wire bundle?:
A:

Black connector pigtail mates to D2433A (PTO)​

Gray connector pigtail/jumper mates to D2621A (rear power jumper)​

This jumps the BAT and IGN sources to the blunt cut wires at the rear of the truck (RD/WH) and (PK/OR)​

8 (Large) Pigtails for AUX plugs​

8 (small) pigtails for PTO trans connector​

2 PTO/Non-PTO jumpers (usually not required for consumer use)​

2021+ kit shown Part number: 68512072

(this kit will also work on 2019-2020 it just has the additional pass-thru wires pinned on 1, 4, 5 on the black (PTO) connector).​

If one were so inclined, you could push 3-4 wires through the firewall and get a setup like the 21+ trucks with the additional pass-thru circuits.​

2019-2020 kit part number 68398184

---

Q: How do I "de-pin" the gray connector (jumper) if I need to move wires?
A: "On the gray connector with the two loops, there is a white piece flush with the face of the connector. Pry that out. Insert a small pick into the spot just below the terminal to pry up the tab that is locking the terminal into place, while pulling on the wire." (@Jimmy07 )

---

Q: How many amps can I put on each AUX switch?
A: All the AUX circuits support up to 40A (28A continuous). You can move the fuses around at will. Just don't exceed the total combined that's listed -210A (135A continuous). Info is in the upfitter docs/diagrams.

---

Q: What are the circuits on the underhood dark gray and light gray AUX connectors?
Q: Is there a circuit ground?
A: See image



Some idjiot lost or removed the underhood grey plugs:

Part number YESC 7282-5595-10
There are rebuild kits available online with a quick search.

CID1044-6.3-11KIT Connector Repair Kit for Yazaki 7282-5595-10

Specifications:< Product Type: Connector Repair Kit Minimum Order Qty: 1 unit Connector ID Part Number: CID1044-6.3-11KIT Brand: Yazaki Equivalent Drop-In Replacement for Yazaki Part Number: 7282-5595-10 Number of Cavities: 4 Product Family: YES/YESC 6.3 mm Sealed/Unsealed: Sealed Gender: Male...

www.connectorid.com

---

Q: Where are the blunt cut rear frame wires?
A: Above the spare tire.
RD/WH is 12V BAT
PK/OR is IGN
WH/PU is stop light circuit

---

Q: What are these wires near the main PDC?:
A: Snow plow lights/interface

---

Q: What is the VSIM and how is it related to AUX switches?
A: VSIM is not directly related to AUX switches, although you could use AUX to trigger inputs.

Q: Where is my bag of VSIM cables that comes with my AUX switches?
A: Apples and oranges. "Mixed metaphors" in a way. Each sales feature has it's own unique bag of wiring.
(need wiring bag part number ref)

Q: Can I add the VSIM?
A: Yes, as with many sales features the dealer will tell you are "plant only" at time of order, the VSIM can be added

Adding the VSIM

Alright @Jimmy07, here’s that thread asking for details. I want to add the VSIM to my truck and I hear it shouldn’t be too difficult...

hdrams.com

​

 

[Brutal_HO]

Q: How do I set my AUX switches?

A:

 

[Brutal_HO]

High Amperage Power Point (HAPP)

Q: Where do I connect High Amperage Loads?
A: At the HAPP

Chassis ground provides up to 50A draw. High loads must be engine grounded.

---

Q: Where are the FUSES located on an HD Ram:

A: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...a_59s8ZffnGx6OkjZBKY/edit?pli=1#gid=238757143

 

[Brutal_HO]

Opening up to help/additions and Q&A - this is a work in progress folks.


@Jimmy07 please contribute what you can if you have time, thanks.

 

[Lucky Devil]

This is a fantastic thread! Thanks to all of the contributors / authors. I love electrical work - can't wait to get my truck and get started! I'm really glad I don't have to research all of this stuff - great to have it all in one spot. Really... this is an A+ thread. Thank you!!

 

[Remy]

Outstanding write up Brutal!!!!

This and the video above gave me the confidence to wire up my fogs and light bar. I was this close to paying someone to do this for me.

Any examples of what devices people are using the pass through circuit for? If I am understanding correctly that is to use one of your AUX switches to turn something on inside the cabin

 

[Brutal_HO]

Outstanding write up Brutal!!!!

This and the video above gave me the confidence to wire up my fogs and light bar. I was this close to paying someone to do this for me.

Any examples of what devices people are using the pass through circuit for? If I am understanding correctly that is to use one of your AUX switches to turn something on inside the cabin

I use AUX6 to turn on the BD 2-LO lockout.

Some folks like to put their radar or dashcams or CB/GMRS/HAM radios on a switch.

If you're doing in-cab air under the rear seat, you could power the relay for that with an AUX.

In-cab aftermarket trailer cam displays, TTPMS repeaters, etc.

 

[Lucky Devil]

Outstanding write up Brutal!!!!

This and the video above gave me the confidence to wire up my fogs and light bar. I was this close to paying someone to do this for me.

Any examples of what devices people are using the pass through circuit for? If I am understanding correctly that is to use one of your AUX switches to turn something on inside the cabin

The pass-through doesn't necessarily have to be connected to one of the Aux switch outputs. You could also create a fused connection directly from your battery to bring constant power into the cab for something that doesn't need to be switched. (Or has its own built-in switch.) Brutal_HO mentioned things like dash cams and radios. Some dash cams have motion detection and bump detection. Those need a full-time power source to use those functions. Personally, I prefer to have my HAM connected directly to the battery. That way I can use it even if my engine is disabled but I still have battery power. (Can radio for help if you're disabled in a remote area.) The radio itself has a switch with no vampiric draw, so I don't need to connect it to a separate controlling switch to prevent battery drain.

 

[Brutal_HO]

The pass-through doesn't necessarily have to be connected to one of the Aux switch outputs. You could also create a fused connection directly from your battery to bring constant power into the cab for something that doesn't need to be switched. (Or has its own built-in switch.) Brutal_HO mentioned things like dash cams and radios. Some dash cams have motion detection and bump detection. Those need a full-time power source to use those functions. Personally, I prefer to have my HAM connected directly to the battery. That way I can use it even if my engine is disabled but I still have battery power. (Can radio for help if you're disabled in a remote area.) The radio itself has a switch with no vampiric draw, so I don't need to connect it to a separate controlling switch to prevent battery drain.

Also correct. But as posted in #2, there's constant 10A fused power in the cab where indicated (still working on the connector/pin.)

Pass thru power, BAT or IGN would be good for higher loads.

There's an upfitter doc for picking BAT or IGN power off the bottom of the Primary PDC. I'll try to find that again and put it up. Also remember the jumper that brings BAT and IGN into the cab and back out to the rear frame can be used.

You could also fuse a wire directly off the HAPP.

 

[buzzuti]

Context: Hardwiring a Vantrue N4 for constant power with the Vantrue hardwire kit.

Q: If I splice wires 3 & 4 for BAT power on the interior cab on the D2621A connector and wire my dash cam hardware kit in…

Would it be overkill to wire in an inline fuse to “protect” my camera? Or a wise move?

 

[QuattroCS]

Context: Hardwiring a Vantrue N4 for constant power with the Vantrue hardwire kit.

Q: If I splice wires 3 & 4 for BAT power on the interior cab on the D2621A connector and wire my dash cam hardware kit in…

Would it be overkill to wire in an inline fuse to “protect” my camera? Or a wise move?

Although i'm sure the line you are tapping into has a fuse, i think it is good practice to have one at or before the device level. I think it is a wise move.

 

[John Jensen]

The line you are tapping into has a high amp rating. Your dash cam would specify a much lower rated fuse. If there was a short or defect that would cause a fuse to blow, the line fuse would probably not protect your dash cam as by the time it blows your dash cam would be ruined, whereas a lower rated fuse would blow much faster/earlier thereby protecting the dash cam. Make sense?

 

[buzzuti]

The line you are tapping into has a high amp rating. Your dash cam would specify a much lower rated fuse. If there was a short or defect that would cause a fuse to blow, the line fuse would probably not protect your dash cam as by the time it blows your dash cam would be ruined, whereas a lower rated fuse would blow much faster/earlier thereby protecting the dash cam. Make sense?

Absolutely! Crystal!

Cam hardwire kit is designed to tap direct to the fuse box, existing fuse port with an additional jumper fuse. 20amp. So going to splice BAT off of D2621A.

Red wire in image came with kit. (Not using)
Bought in-line fuse, black on right which will be used to splice in RW 3&4 wire on D2621A.
Added a female bullet terminal to the cam side, and the hardwire kit has a male ending. No soldering.

If I don’t blow myself up, will post pics

 

[John Jensen]

Absolutely! Crystal!

Cam hardwire kit is designed to tap direct to the fuse box, existing fuse port with an additional jumper fuse. 20amp. So going to splice BAT off of D2621A.

Red wire in image came with kit. (Not using)
Bought in-line fuse, black on right which will be used to splice in RW 3&4 wire on D2621A.
Added a female bullet terminal to the cam side, and the hardwire kit has a male ending. No soldering.

If I don’t blow myself up, will post pics
View attachment 40566

I hate those wiretaps (blue in your pic). They've been known to cut wire, to not make a good connection, to come loose. I suggest finding a different type, I have no recommendations as I always make soldered connections. Maybe someone more familiar with wiretaps will chime in.

 

[buzzuti]

I hate those wiretaps (blue in your pic). They've been known to cut wire, to not make a good connection, to come loose. I suggest finding a different type, I have no recommendations as I always make soldered connections. Maybe someone more familiar with wiretaps will chime in.

Yeah, honestly a little anxiety for me on those as well.
I figured if I borked it, I would fall back on soldering.

Definitely way open to suggestions.

This forum consistently restores my faith in humanity @John Jensen , many thanks!

 

[Brutal_HO]

If you're inclined to use a wiretap/scotch-lock, might just as well cut the wire and reassemble using butt splice with a proper crimp tool and marine shrink tubing. That's generally what I do if there are no other options.

Given time and access to a new connector terminal (@Jimmy07) I would prefer to source a new connector terminal and crimp both existing and new wire into it if feasible. I also label the crap out of everything because either I will forget, or (it could happen) the next owner needs to know.