In Cab Power FAQ -- AUX Switch power info -- Chassis power info

[Brutal_HO]

So now, question: If I jumper AUX1 under the hood to the pass through under the hood and I plug in the grey jumper connection inside the cab against the firewall to put power to the back of my 2500, that then makes the wires at (F) at the rear of the truck active for use (mounting LED bed lighting that I want cab control over) so that when I find the wires (F) on top of the spare tire, I then want to connect my LEDs to the PK/OR ign wire I find there and connect the ground anywhere in the back on the frame. If I do that, I will be running the LEDs off the AUX1 switch? Making sure I've understood the videos and all your posts and diagrams correctly. Thanks guys.

No.

The wires at the back are by default BAT and IGN if you plug in the jumper. Nothing to do with AUX unless you change/cut wires.

If you want to send an AUX control back there, you would have to re-pin one of those to the pass-thru circuit and connect that to an AUX switch.

Which one do you want to use?

BAT converted to AUX?
or
IGN converted to AUX?

As an example. If you wanted to use the IGN wire (F606) on AUX1 instead of IGN, you would move the wire in pin6 to the pin 5 location (or cut and splice) and connect G245 VT/YE to the AUX1 plug. This would send the 12V from AUX1 using the F606 circuit on the cab side to the rear of the truck on the PK/OG wire. As a bonus, swapping pin 6 and 5 would give you IGN power on the VT/YE inside the cab.





Here's another way to look at it:

 

[JoeCoz]

No.

The wires at the back are by default BAT and IGN if you plug in the jumper. Nothing to do with AUX unless you change/cut wires.

If you want to send an AUX control back there, you would have to re-pin one of those to the pass-thru circuit and connect that to an AUX switch.

Which one do you want to use?

BAT converted to AUX?
or
IGN converted to AUX?

As an example. If you wanted to use the IGN wire (F606) on AUX1 instead of IGN, you would move the wire in pin6 to the pin 5 location (or cut and splice) and connect G245 VT/YE to the AUX1 plug. This would send the 12V from AUX1 using the F606 circuit on the cab side to the rear of the truck on the PK/OG wire. As a bonus, swapping pin 6 and 5 would give you IGN power on the VT/YE inside the cab.



View attachment 63987

Here's another way to look at it:

View attachment 63988

Thank you so much for your reply. Question about re-pinning the jumper to swap 5&6...(I have a tendency to use too much force and break things) when prying out the white insert on the jumper so that I can lift the tabs and back out the 2 wires i want to swap, am I trying to REMOVE the white insert or just disengage it, and how far am i prying it out to get it to release?

 

[Brutal_HO]

<shrugs> Dunno, I just cut mine and wired to a terminal block for a more multipurpose solution.

@Jimmy07

 

[44Dan44]

Thank you so much for your reply. Question about re-pinning the jumper to swap 5&6...(I have a tendency to use too much force and break things) when prying out the white insert on the jumper so that I can lift the tabs and back out the 2 wires i want to swap, am I trying to REMOVE the white insert or just disengage it, and how far am i prying it out to get it to release?

If you want to skip the de-pin route and gain some additional in cab power (batt & ignition - non switched) for future use, check this out starting here:

https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/dans-2023-2500-tradesman-unlimited.14060/post-264276

And finishing up here

Dan's 2023 2500 Tradesman UNLimited

Continuation post from https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/dans-2023-2500-tradesman-unlimited.14060/post-264276 Thanks to @AH64ID for the inspiration. Led me to explore further and dig into available pass-throughs. From the thread linked above, I left off with this: Under dash: From...

hdrams.com

 

[44Dan44]

I just really want to thank all you guys for contributing your expertise to this forum. I don't know if you know this, but in our RAM owners manuals (I own a 2021 2500 Tradesman), the section on AUX Switches refers you to the ramtrucks.com website so you can use the online builder's guide for more information. EXCEPT Stellaris has now restricted access to the website to commercial upfitters and you have to request access and justify why you need information that is SUPPOSED TO COME IN YOUR OWNERS MANUAL. So without you guys helping out your fellow DIYers, we'd really be screwed. I spent 30 minutes screaming at Chrysler customer service because they have no right to deny me access to information that I frankly paid for when I bought the darn truck and how dare they just because I don't manage a fleet of at least 5 vehicles. So forgive the rant, but I wanted to put that out there and again... thank you all.

Also check out this thread, it's do-able without a business or fleet. And belated welcome to the forum! https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/ram-body-builders-access.15316/

 

[Skrapper]

This is a roll-up thread that should answer most if not all questions regarding power availability in the cab.

A lot of the credit for technical detail goes to @Jimmy07 without whose help and guidance much of this info would be hard to assemble.
There are other contributors, you know who you are. If you recognize a photo as one of yours, shoot me a PM and I'll add the credit.

All trucks

BAT+ 12V Constant power:

1. Driver side under the dash panel. Red wire in connector (need reference and image) Pin #
   1. This is power for the overhead tailgate release button (if equipped) but present on all trucks. It's a 10A fused circuit only draw is for tailgate release.
   2. If equipped with the overhead tailgate release, this same Red wire has 12V constant power on the button connector.
2. High current power is available at the HAPP under the hood - (post #7) https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/in-cab-power-faq.9711/post-181308

IGN/ACC 12V

1. Passenger Side under the dash end panel. Pink/Yellow wire in Connector / Pin # (need reference and image)
   • This wire is present in the overhead if you have at least an auto dim mirror.

Other power sources

1. The top of dash 12V port is defaulted to BAT+ 12V but is controlled by the fuse in location F90/F91 and can be set for IGN.
2. The connector plugged into the rear USB ports has both battery power and acc. The pink/yellow wire is acc, (same circuit as mirror) and the red wire is battery.
3. If you have the wireless charger, it also has pink/yellow acc power.
4. Under hood RUN/ACC, BAT power:
   • PDC Connector C5, Pin 7 = Circuit F781 PK/YE, 10A (F65) - (USB Charging Port, Wireless Charging Module and the Invertor Module)
   • PDC Connector C7, Pin 9 = Circuit F986 PK/YE, 20A (F90/91) - User selectable IGN/BAT

F65	/	ATR (Micro2)	10 Amp Red	MOD Inverter (Wake Up) / Power Port / USB IP / WCPM – If Equipped (HD Only) Spare (DS 1500 Only)
F80	/	ATR (Micro2)	10 Amp Red	Universal Garage Door Opener / Compass / Anti-Intrusion Module (DS 1500 Only) ASSY Overhead Console / SW Assist / SW 911 – If Equipped (HD Only)
F90/F91	/	ATR (Micro2)	20 Amp Yellow	IGN or BATT Customer Selectable – If Equipped (HD Only) Power Outlet (Rear Seats) Customer Selectable (DS 1500 Only)
F104	/	ATR (Micro2)	20 Amp Yellow	Power Outlets (Instrument Panel / Center Console) / Trunk – If Equipped (DS 1500 Only) UCI Port / USB Rear (HD Only)

---

For trucks equipped with Aux switches

​

1. There is a light gray jumper D2621A above the e-brake near the firewall that has BAT+ and IGN in addition to one or more pass through circuits depending on model year.
   • Pass thru circuits are present in the AUX plugs under the hood.
     • G425 VT/YE
   • MY 21+ have 4 additional circuits on D2433A terminated on blunt cut wires near the PDC (see below)
   • W550 BG/GY shown in the image below is not present on 2019-2020 trucks.
     
     
     
     
     .
2. For 21+ trucks with Aux switches there is an additional white jumper D2433A with 3 pass through circuits that terminate at blunt cut wires near the PDC
   • W547 BG/DB
   • W548 BG/BN
   • W549 BG/DG
     
     
     

---

Further details regarding AUX Switches - (post #5): https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/in-cab-power-faq.9711/post-181297

Brutal, did you determine what circuit/connector/pin the pink/yellow passenger side dash end panel ignition accessory wire is that you referenced? I'm looking to power aftermarket heated seats in my 2023 3500 Tradesman, so I need to tie into 15 amps (total) of ignition/accessory switched power in the cab. I got the heat pads installed over the weekend, but am struggling with where I can pull power to complete wiring for the project.

In your experience, would that be my best option? I also wondered about trying to locate a connector for an OEM option my Tradesman doesn't have that has unused power (it looks like there are multiple plugs under the drivers seat that aren't all used and I assume there might be more under the center jump seat if I can figure out how to remove it). I assume I could de-pin a wire from a connector to splice into and pull power, but I wasn't sure a) what I could use with enough excess capacity, and b) if the CANBUS system would throw a fit if there was a 15 amp load on a circuit the computer doesn't think my truck uses. I appreciate any advice/direction you or any of the other members can offer.

 

[Brutal_HO]

There are plenty of 20A circuits for options, but don't know which might have wiring already present and be Hot or made to be Hot.

Have you checked for any with a meter?

@Jimmy07

 

[Jimmy07]

Brutal, did you determine what circuit/connector/pin the pink/yellow passenger side dash end panel ignition accessory wire is that you referenced? I'm looking to power aftermarket heated seats in my 2023 3500 Tradesman, so I need to tie into 15 amps (total) of ignition/accessory switched power in the cab. I got the heat pads installed over the weekend, but am struggling with where I can pull power to complete wiring for the project.

In your experience, would that be my best option? I also wondered about trying to locate a connector for an OEM option my Tradesman doesn't have that has unused power (it looks like there are multiple plugs under the drivers seat that aren't all used and I assume there might be more under the center jump seat if I can figure out how to remove it). I assume I could de-pin a wire from a connector to splice into and pull power, but I wasn't sure a) what I could use with enough excess capacity, and b) if the CANBUS system would throw a fit if there was a 15 amp load on a circuit the computer doesn't think my truck uses. I appreciate any advice/direction you or any of the other members can offer.

You already have both factory heated seats ignition power wires present under the driver seat in the yellow connector. The pink/yellow wires in positions 5 and 8 are each 20 amp circuits belonging to the heated seat module.

 

[Skrapper]

You already have both factory heated seats ignition power wires present under the driver seat in the yellow connector. The pink/yellow wires in positions 5 and 8 are each 20 amp circuits belonging to the heated seat module.

Brutal and Jimmy, thanks very much for your help. Using the OEM seat heater power circuits would be ideal and I saw those circuits have fuses in the PDC so I hope I'm just blind, but I'm not seeing a yellow connector under the driver's seat with any pink/yellow wires. Here are some photos of what I have under the seat (with blue crosses over the aftermarket seat heater wiring connector).Is there another connector under the carpet or somewhere else that I need to locate, or am I missing that OEM wiring?

I was hoping to avoid getting out my multimeter to find a circuit if I could avoid it (especially since I don't have any wiring diagrams for reference), but if I don't have the OEM seat heater wiring to pull from and there isn't another easy to identify power circuit to use getting out the meter will be my next step.

 

[Brutal_HO]

Whatever you do, don't mess with those small yellow connectors, I believe those are for the airbags.

 

[Skrapper]

Whatever you do, don't mess with those small yellow connectors, I believe those are for the airbags.

Copy, good to know.

@Jimmy07 , is there any chance this connector is the one with the heated seat wires you referenced? The connector isn't yellow, but I think the wires in pins 5 and 8 are both pink/yellow (it looks like the connector is upside down).

 

[phyler]

Trying to wire in a dash cam and was going to use F606 (PK/OG) for the IGN and A500 (RD/WH) for the B+. I have the Aux switches and the harness. I cut the loops for each of those and the B+ is working. When I put a meter on the wire for IGN (F606) with IGN on (truck running), it doesn't stay at a solid 12v like I would expect. It jumps around (i.e. shows 10v, then 7v, then 0, then back to 10v, etc). Anyone seen something like this? It's very strange.

 

[flintobrien]

What is this connector? I don't see the gray or white connectors mentioned earlier. Is it possible the gray connector is plugged into the white panel with all the other plugs? I'm looking for IGN/ACC and dash illumination for an ARB on-board air compressor (for inflating tires and RV tires).

The wider image is looking through a plate I removed just above the parking break. On the closeup of the connector, I only see power on the top-right pin (always-on).

2024 Ram 3500 Limited Longhorn ordered with Auxiliary–Switches Prep (no actual aux switches).