Darkone
Well-Known Member
Front only
Do the 3500 trucks have a rear swaybar or front only?
I would modify the swaybar mounting tabs on the axle before I modified the track bar mount on the axle. Looks like the swaybar mount tab would be easy to move forward to clear the bracket but I can’t tell fully from the pics. Eyeballing it looks like you could do a pie cut, bend it over forward a little re weld it and throw a little gusset on it. Or it could be cut off and re done either would be fine.Today began with meeting some old friends at a gathering if the Middle Peninsula Jeep Association here in Virginia. I have been a member of this fine club off and on for the past two decades and enjoyed many trail rides with the folks. Prior to that I was a member of the White Sands Jeep Club located in the panhandle of Florida in the late '90s and early '00s. Scratching my head, I am having trouble remembering the name of the first Jeep club I was ever a member of in Pennsylvania in during the mid-90s.
I guess the more important fact is that they were all good clubs overflowing with adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts. Most clubs welcomed all levels from street legal stock Jeeps up through extensively modified off-road only rigs. The organized rides were most often a day ride, some were a two-day weekend, and the distances covered on the trail were often a dozen miles or so. Now the terrain was often a bit more challenging with many obstacles and when it comes to pushing a dozen plus Jeeps with different levels of modification and a variety of driver skill levels, sometimes it took the group an hour or longer to clear a single obstacle.
It would be interesting to see if there are overland-specific clubs that are beginning to spring up and how they operate as compared to a traditional Jeep club. If you have a club in your area I would encourage you to attend a meeting or event since there are all sorts of folks with a wide variety of rigs who share a common love or adventure.
After spending a few hours reminiscing with the Jeep folks I stopped over my buddies house to quickly yank off my anti-roll bar links. Ed has an amazing tool selection with most handtools being Proto, MAC, etc. In his garage is an equally impressive range of professional air-powered tools to include an industrial air compressor, aftercooler, etc. I wanted to take him to lunch so stopping over to zip four nuts off was a great excuse.
Once I returned home I began to compare the OEM anti-roll bar links (outboard) to the recently procured BDS #122414 disconnects. Measuring from the top surface where the link attached to the anti-roll bar down to the center of the horizontal mounting bolt which connects the link to the axle we have the following overall lengths:
The additional length of the BDS will push the anti-roll bar up, effectively shortening the lever arm, and increasing the effectiveness of the stock bar. This is a good direction to move in but may be possibly too good since the stock set up is firm enough.
- OEM 5.50"
- BDS 8.75"
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Spoiler alert - BDS disconnects are not compatible with the AEV raised track bar tower which is part of their high steer kit.
While the passenger side fit as expected, there was conflict on the passenger side. The first problem is the fact that the linch pin is not able to be fully seated and locked. Once the linch pin has been removed it is not possible to slide the BDS disconnect off the disconnect stud since there is conflict with the AEV raised track bar tower. As this picture shows - AEV designed this bracket to be used with only the OEM link.
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Here is a picture showing more of the AEV raised track bar tower with the BDS link removed. The only possible solution I can think of right now would include an extension (green) of the existing tower and removal (red) of additional material thus permitting the BDS disconnect to slid off and be disconnected. After reviewing this objectively, this would take far too long since I was not the original designer of the tower and do not have access to the projected loads imposed upon it by the track bar. In short, it's just too much trouble for very little reward. At this point I will restore my rig to its previous condition and place the BDS disconnects on the shelf for the time being. There are other more important projects that must be addressed right now.
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We use a kiddo potty/sink utility step for my grandma to get in and out of my truck. Made by bumbo in South Africa its tough as nails cheap and lightweight.After less than two years it appears my Worx Storage Step Stool is nearly dead. It was purchased in December 2021 and has been used daily while climbing in and out of my camper, and also while deploying and storing the camper. It has seen quite a bit of use although I was still surprised it failed in less than two years.
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This crack appeared approximately 6-8 months ago and created difficulties related to latching. It was not a big deal so I continued to use the unit.
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Several months ago the center section of the top began to fail in multiple places. Keep in mind that I do not carry anything in the storage area and make a reasonable effort to place my feet around the perimeter when stepping up into my camper. It is different when stepping out, especially during darkness. As a safety measure, I place my foot into the center to prevent slipping and falling out of my camper.
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With the cracks on top, rain water naturally seeps in and collects. And with the crack on the side, it will slowly leak out. What this means is that before stowing my stool in the camper after it rains, I am required to open it up and dry everything out. If I do not, the water will leak onto the floor of my camper and I will be find a small puddle when I stop and open the door.
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My goal now is to select a permanent solution that is safer and will last longer. Maybe an aluminum step stand that has a height of 15-20" would best best. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Curious to know what has kept you from installing some sidestep bars or rock sliders.has been used daily while climbing in and out of my camper