Darkone
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2021 RAM 3500 Tradesman | AEV Prospector | FWC Grandby
- Thread starter ramblinChet
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ramblinChet
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Negative on the rear - my 3500 only has a front anti-sway bar since it has stiff leaf springs mounted outside the frame. I suspect that all 2500s have a rear anti-roll bar since they are running softer coils more inboard when compared to the leafs.
During one of our previous discussions I mentioned that reducing, or disconnecting, the front anti-roll bar will increase the potential for a vehicle to oversteer and have the back end come around very quickly. Not many average drivers are able to safely control an oversteer situation since it happens so quickly and once that rear end begins to sweep around, the process accelerates. If you add, or increase the stiffness, or a rear anti-sway bar unnecessarily, the result is the same - additional oversteer.
From a safety perspective - understeer is much preferred since it can easily be corrected by doing what comes naturally, reducing throttle input and straightening out the wheels. Understeer is essentially pushing the front end so hard that the front wheels begin to chatter, or squeal, and then you slowly lose the ability to continue turning. A coil sprung truck with a stiff front bar and no rear bar would be prone to heavy oversteer.
Manufacturers do a great job of balancing these forces and error to the side of understeer slightly. High performance sports cars generally do a fantastic job of narrowing that margin even further so when they are pushed too hard, the first experience slight understeer which is soon followed by progressive oversteer. This is why we sometimes see professional drivers appearing to slide through a corner while steering the vehicle with the gas pedal. It's an impressive feat to say the least.
Here is a great video discussing understeer and oversteer in detail:
Last edited:
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
ramblinChet
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The past few weeks have been focused on long-overdue upgrades, maintenance, etc. At the same time I decided to upgrade a few of my tools and below is another example. Of course, I have owned wire strippers since the early 80s but I never really had what I considered a nice pair, so I purchased these Klein Heavy Duty Wire Strippers which strip from 8-20 AWG stranded wire.
The paperwork is part of the RAM Upfitter Electrical Kit (#68398184AB) that came with my vehicle.
I figured if I was going to spend more money on strippers I would do my best to spend locally. The local ACE have a great selection of nuts, bolts, washers, etc., so I also took time to look for large washers that would be used to square up my Maxtrax mounts. They had large washers but they were $2-3 each and for the price it was just easier to purchase a piece of flat stock to cut and drill. One note, they offered to cut for free so I accepted but ended up with an assortment of parallelograms. It works but is pretty ugly by my measure.
Here is a Battle Born 100Ah 12V LiFePO4 deep cycle battery previously used on my Jeep as a house battery. What I am attempting to do is to wake-up the Battery Management System (BMS) since the battery has been in storage for the past nearly two years. Despite me charging the battery to 100% prior to storage and the company stating that "the batteries lose approximately 2-3% capacity per month" and they have a 10-year warranty, it appears that the $925 I spent on this battery will be a total loss.
When I contacted Battle Born they partially agreed with their instructions by stating that "you should jump your battery within twenty-four hours of entering low-voltage disconnect otherwise you risk damaging your battery and voiding your warranty." The disagreement came when what they verbally stated their batteries lose around 5% capacity per month which is twice as much as compared to their instructions which state a loss of 2-3% per month. This is frustrating since they promote how rugged and reliable these batteries are while at the same time not really identifying what could potentially render a battery useless. I will continue performing testing and discussing this with Battle Born and will share the outcome.
Here is my Maxxfan Plus (#00-04500K) which also requires service since the fan itself stopped working months ago. I took the fan apart and cleaned it up and after re-installing it and applying power the only part that seemed to work was the motor for automatically closing the cover. I will call Maxxair and post my update here.
Finally, a successful repair! Here is my Helio Pressure Shower from Nemo Equipment that I have owned for approximately five years. Over the past few months it has leaked a few times with the occasional leak appearing to come from a partially failed valve inside the foot-pump. I called Nemo and discussed the problem with them and a few days later a new foot-pump arrived. A few minutes later the new pump was on and they pressure shower seems to be repaired. The new design seems to be much more robust.
Yet another successful repair this time on my Renogy 200 watt 12 volt monocrystalline foldable solar suitcase. What failed were the adjustment knobs on the legs - they rusted so bad that one seized up and the leg was rendered inoperable. The solar panels and charge controller still worked fine so I contacted Renogy and they shipped out another set or legs complete with mounting blocks, bolts, etc. To be fair, I did not receive two new complete legs - they appeared to be used and were missing a few small parts. This was not an issue for me since my goal was to bring the system back into operation and I was able to cannibalize the missing knob and bolts from the old components.
Here are the locks I finally selected to protect my four Maxtrax MKII recovery boards mounted on the side of my pop-up camper. It will be interesting to see if these are able to stand up to full time use on the exterior of my adventure vehicle. Over the past few weeks I have been stopping at all sorts of placed and visiting many web site searching for the largest outdoor lock for the least amount of money that would work in conjunction with the Maxtrax MKII mounting pins. Maxtrax recommends a TSA-style lock but they just appear to be small and weak like most guys these days.
These Brinks 30mm solid brass 4-dial resettable padlocks are made in China out of solid brass using a steel shackle which has a cut strength up to 1200 lbs. Ultimately, if someone really has a desire to defeat a system like this - it is rather easy. Then again, when I travel I am usually inside or in close proximity to my vehicle most of the time while exploring the wilderness. It's only when I am in-town stopping into a store to stock up on supplies that my vehicle is most vulnerable. I do hope these last for a reasonable amount of time.
Not a favorite place to purchase anything but I occasionally enjoy a night spent in their parking lot so I don't feel bad spending money there sometimes. Receipt for reference.
Over the past half-century I have developed a small group of good friends - sort of an inner circle. One man was a fellow student at Penn State University who also roadraced superbikes with me at WERA events, another worked with me at Lord Corporation in the High Energy Laboratory. A few worked at Siemens VDO with me while I partnered with another at NASA Langley Research Center. Recently, I lost one of my inner circle - we spent nearly two years together struggling through initial training in the military. When we finally graduated and looked back upon hundreds of quitters, and selected orders to our initial duty stations, we smiled knowing that we would always have each others back.
I am talking to the men out there, not the guys. If you are a man, you must expose yourself to tough times and dangerous situations to begin to form an inner circle. This does not happen quickly, it has taken me the better part of a half-century and I can count my brothers on one hand. This is how it is, always has been, and always will be. You don't develop meaningful and lasting friendship with other men during good times - it happens when things are tough and your respect, your reputation, or even your life, are on the line. My men have weathered many storms with me and they can count on me for anything with no questions asked. Anything.
A few of my brothers invited me to join them recently at a remote location. It was on the property of another fellow who seems like a nice guy himself. We talked openly and shared everything, as always. On public forums such as this I am required to temper my speech so as not to offend but in private, I have no filter - I let the truth out and I speak it with my chin held high, my chest out, and a smile on my face. At this point in my life I really don't care what others think or say about my beliefs, what I do, where I go, why I am who I am, etc. The four of us sat around a fire and devoured two pounds of bacon, two pounds of shrimp, and a dozen eggs.
I am where I am and I am doing what I am doing because I love freedom and despise tyrannical orders issued by despotic leaders. You guessed it, I didn't play well with others in grade-school. Now for some truth - stop worrying about your job, stop worrying about money, stop worrying if your wife or girlfriend will leave you, and stop making excuses - it's time for you to lift a heavy load and embrace the struggle, and love it. If you are one of the 3% of men who have the balls to do this - you will eventually form an inner circle. On the other hand, it you are like 97% of the guys, you will continue to serve and obey, just like a mindless slave.
So go get a truck, grab a gun, knife, and blanket, and head out into the wilderness to figure things out. The longer you are outside the more open to the truth your mind becomes. Happy trails.
The paperwork is part of the RAM Upfitter Electrical Kit (#68398184AB) that came with my vehicle.
I figured if I was going to spend more money on strippers I would do my best to spend locally. The local ACE have a great selection of nuts, bolts, washers, etc., so I also took time to look for large washers that would be used to square up my Maxtrax mounts. They had large washers but they were $2-3 each and for the price it was just easier to purchase a piece of flat stock to cut and drill. One note, they offered to cut for free so I accepted but ended up with an assortment of parallelograms. It works but is pretty ugly by my measure.
Here is a Battle Born 100Ah 12V LiFePO4 deep cycle battery previously used on my Jeep as a house battery. What I am attempting to do is to wake-up the Battery Management System (BMS) since the battery has been in storage for the past nearly two years. Despite me charging the battery to 100% prior to storage and the company stating that "the batteries lose approximately 2-3% capacity per month" and they have a 10-year warranty, it appears that the $925 I spent on this battery will be a total loss.
When I contacted Battle Born they partially agreed with their instructions by stating that "you should jump your battery within twenty-four hours of entering low-voltage disconnect otherwise you risk damaging your battery and voiding your warranty." The disagreement came when what they verbally stated their batteries lose around 5% capacity per month which is twice as much as compared to their instructions which state a loss of 2-3% per month. This is frustrating since they promote how rugged and reliable these batteries are while at the same time not really identifying what could potentially render a battery useless. I will continue performing testing and discussing this with Battle Born and will share the outcome.
Here is my Maxxfan Plus (#00-04500K) which also requires service since the fan itself stopped working months ago. I took the fan apart and cleaned it up and after re-installing it and applying power the only part that seemed to work was the motor for automatically closing the cover. I will call Maxxair and post my update here.
Finally, a successful repair! Here is my Helio Pressure Shower from Nemo Equipment that I have owned for approximately five years. Over the past few months it has leaked a few times with the occasional leak appearing to come from a partially failed valve inside the foot-pump. I called Nemo and discussed the problem with them and a few days later a new foot-pump arrived. A few minutes later the new pump was on and they pressure shower seems to be repaired. The new design seems to be much more robust.
Yet another successful repair this time on my Renogy 200 watt 12 volt monocrystalline foldable solar suitcase. What failed were the adjustment knobs on the legs - they rusted so bad that one seized up and the leg was rendered inoperable. The solar panels and charge controller still worked fine so I contacted Renogy and they shipped out another set or legs complete with mounting blocks, bolts, etc. To be fair, I did not receive two new complete legs - they appeared to be used and were missing a few small parts. This was not an issue for me since my goal was to bring the system back into operation and I was able to cannibalize the missing knob and bolts from the old components.
Here are the locks I finally selected to protect my four Maxtrax MKII recovery boards mounted on the side of my pop-up camper. It will be interesting to see if these are able to stand up to full time use on the exterior of my adventure vehicle. Over the past few weeks I have been stopping at all sorts of placed and visiting many web site searching for the largest outdoor lock for the least amount of money that would work in conjunction with the Maxtrax MKII mounting pins. Maxtrax recommends a TSA-style lock but they just appear to be small and weak like most guys these days.
These Brinks 30mm solid brass 4-dial resettable padlocks are made in China out of solid brass using a steel shackle which has a cut strength up to 1200 lbs. Ultimately, if someone really has a desire to defeat a system like this - it is rather easy. Then again, when I travel I am usually inside or in close proximity to my vehicle most of the time while exploring the wilderness. It's only when I am in-town stopping into a store to stock up on supplies that my vehicle is most vulnerable. I do hope these last for a reasonable amount of time.
Not a favorite place to purchase anything but I occasionally enjoy a night spent in their parking lot so I don't feel bad spending money there sometimes. Receipt for reference.
Over the past half-century I have developed a small group of good friends - sort of an inner circle. One man was a fellow student at Penn State University who also roadraced superbikes with me at WERA events, another worked with me at Lord Corporation in the High Energy Laboratory. A few worked at Siemens VDO with me while I partnered with another at NASA Langley Research Center. Recently, I lost one of my inner circle - we spent nearly two years together struggling through initial training in the military. When we finally graduated and looked back upon hundreds of quitters, and selected orders to our initial duty stations, we smiled knowing that we would always have each others back.
I am talking to the men out there, not the guys. If you are a man, you must expose yourself to tough times and dangerous situations to begin to form an inner circle. This does not happen quickly, it has taken me the better part of a half-century and I can count my brothers on one hand. This is how it is, always has been, and always will be. You don't develop meaningful and lasting friendship with other men during good times - it happens when things are tough and your respect, your reputation, or even your life, are on the line. My men have weathered many storms with me and they can count on me for anything with no questions asked. Anything.
A few of my brothers invited me to join them recently at a remote location. It was on the property of another fellow who seems like a nice guy himself. We talked openly and shared everything, as always. On public forums such as this I am required to temper my speech so as not to offend but in private, I have no filter - I let the truth out and I speak it with my chin held high, my chest out, and a smile on my face. At this point in my life I really don't care what others think or say about my beliefs, what I do, where I go, why I am who I am, etc. The four of us sat around a fire and devoured two pounds of bacon, two pounds of shrimp, and a dozen eggs.
I am where I am and I am doing what I am doing because I love freedom and despise tyrannical orders issued by despotic leaders. You guessed it, I didn't play well with others in grade-school. Now for some truth - stop worrying about your job, stop worrying about money, stop worrying if your wife or girlfriend will leave you, and stop making excuses - it's time for you to lift a heavy load and embrace the struggle, and love it. If you are one of the 3% of men who have the balls to do this - you will eventually form an inner circle. On the other hand, it you are like 97% of the guys, you will continue to serve and obey, just like a mindless slave.
So go get a truck, grab a gun, knife, and blanket, and head out into the wilderness to figure things out. The longer you are outside the more open to the truth your mind becomes. Happy trails.
Last edited:
Darkone
Well-Known Member
Well said, this world needs more men that think that way.
Highly disappointing to hear about the battle born battery. Hopefully they make it right by some means.
Highly disappointing to hear about the battle born battery. Hopefully they make it right by some means.
ramblinChet
Drinks Alone
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Marine-grade electrical components manufactured by Ancor or wire clamps and screws from McMaster-Carr seem to be expensive options but when you break it all down the cost is actually reasonable considering the quality. Whenever I begin searching for equipment or components for my adventure vehicle some of the first qualities I review include outdoor use, UV resistant, etc. Over the past few decades I have placed increasingly more weight on specific brand names produced or manufactured these United States, Germany, etc. If we spend money on premium electrical components from Victron Energy or REDARC is it not logical to support them with same-quality wire, splices, and clamps; and tools to install?
With that in mind I will admit that it was tough to spend $170 on heat shrink tubing and tinned copper lugs but after spending many hours researching all of the available options, I did it and have no regrets. As I grow older what I have learned in life is there exists two primary types of regret - this first and most easy to deal with would be the regret for doing something wrong. That hurts and may haunt us but it is noting compared to the weight of the regret we carry for not taking a chance and doing something. And many times in life we only have once chance to seize an opportunity so keep your keep your head on a swivel and prepare to take risks.
Ancor Heat Shrink Tubing Kit #330101
47 piece Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing
Ancor Tinned Copper Lugs Kit #255101
100 piece Tinned Copper Lugs
Receipt for reference:
Here are supplies I ordered to assist with the installation of my OEM backup camera on Four Wheel Camper:
Vibration-Damping Loop Clamp
304 Stainless Steel with EPDM Rubber Cushion, 3/8" ID
Rounded Head Thread-Cutting Screws for Metal
Zinc-Plated Steel, 1/4"-20 Thread, 3/8" Long
Receipt for reference:
With that in mind I will admit that it was tough to spend $170 on heat shrink tubing and tinned copper lugs but after spending many hours researching all of the available options, I did it and have no regrets. As I grow older what I have learned in life is there exists two primary types of regret - this first and most easy to deal with would be the regret for doing something wrong. That hurts and may haunt us but it is noting compared to the weight of the regret we carry for not taking a chance and doing something. And many times in life we only have once chance to seize an opportunity so keep your keep your head on a swivel and prepare to take risks.
Ancor Heat Shrink Tubing Kit #330101
47 piece Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing
- (10) Black 3/16" x 6" (10) Black 1/4" x 6" (10) Black 3/8" x 6" (5) Black 1/2" x 6" (3) Black 3/4" x 3" (3) Red 3/4" x 3" (3) Black 1" x 3" (3) Red 1" x 3"
- Cross Linked polyolefin tubing is much stronger than PVC tubing and will not burn like PVC
- Heat activated adhesive lining provides impervious seal to salt water, oil, acids, and sunlight as well as providing strain relief
- Highest shrink ratio - shrinks to 1/3 original size
- Shrinks at 257 deg F / 125 deg C
- Operating temperature range of -40 deg C to 110 deg C
Ancor Tinned Copper Lugs Kit #255101
100 piece Tinned Copper Lugs
- (10) 8 AWG 5/16"; (10) 8 AWG 3/8"; (10) 6 AWG 5/16"; (10) 6 AWG 3/8"; (10) 4 AWG 5/16"; (10) 4 AWG 3/8"; (10) 2 AWG 5/16"; (10) 2 AWG 3/8"; (5) 1/0 AWG 5/16"; (5) 1/0 AWG 3/8"; (5) 2/0 AWG 5/16"; (5) 2/0 AWG 3/8"
- Ancor Marine Grade lugs are manufactured from 100 percent heavy-duty annealed tinned copper, providing for maximum current flow while resisting corrosion from salt and moisture. Seamless barrel design allows for maximum strength when crimped. Closed end design seals out moisture so cables stay dry and corrosion free.
Receipt for reference:
Here are supplies I ordered to assist with the installation of my OEM backup camera on Four Wheel Camper:
Vibration-Damping Loop Clamp
304 Stainless Steel with EPDM Rubber Cushion, 3/8" ID
Rounded Head Thread-Cutting Screws for Metal
Zinc-Plated Steel, 1/4"-20 Thread, 3/8" Long
Receipt for reference:
ramblinChet
Drinks Alone
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My most recent modification involved transferring my OEM backup camera from my tailgate to the rear door of my Four Wheel Camper. It sounds like a fairly easy evolution but I have a habit of spending dozens of hours contemplating various options, researching components and even comparing the same components produced by different manufacturers. Trust me, there are differences and I am happy to take a little bit longer, and pay slightly more, for a much better overall package.
Most of the components for this modification originated from two companies: Rostra and McMaster-Carr. The backup housing and wire were discussed in this previous post while the remaining components were discussed here and here. The picture below is of the finished product and since the placement of the camera was made in accordance with Ram_HD CC_Camera System - Analog_2019+_Rev A.pdf (see attached) which specifies an ideal camera height of 55", the camera being centered, and at an angle of 42° relative to the ground. The reverse image displayed on my OEM center console screen is perfect.
After backing up using only side mirrors for such a long time it was refreshing to use the OEM camera once again.
My OEM tailgate was pulled from storage and it took just a few tools and a couple of minutes to remove the OEM camera. Once you remove the metal panel on the inside vertical face of the tailgate there are two screws, and one electrical connection to address. The tailgate handle will begin to move about once the screws are loosened but you still much reach inside along the top of the handle to depress the two plastic holders and then it will pop right out. After that there are four small Torx screws that are removed from a plastic retainer and out comes the camera.
The instructions for the Rostra mount suggest routing the camera's LVDS cable out the rear of the housing and this is why you see the large hole in the back. I was not excited about complicating this installation by running the wire through the door and then the wall of the camper so I elected to drill a hole in the side and pass the corrugated conduit through there. It worked out although I will state the design of the housing places the LVDS connector in conflict with the surface of the door when mounted so it was still necessary to relieve the area. If they would have made the housing another 3-5mm thicker this all could have been avoided. It's still a very nice housing though with the camera fitting perfectly inside.
Here is the corrugated conduit and LVDS exiting the housing and then turning up preparing to cross over door hinge. Time will tell if this loop works or not although I suspect it will be fine for many years.
A close up of the corrugated conduit looping up and across door hinge. In many industrial or commercial applications where a wire jumps across a door hinge you will see it looping down but in this case the assembly was so light that I elected to use this shorter and more direct route by utilizing a vertical loop.
What was really nice is the corrugated conduit I used was perfect size relative to the OEM connector on the rear of the bed. Everything fits perfectly and I wish I could say that I had planned this section this way but I didn't - I actually intended to drill a slightly larger hole, install a protective bushing, and penetrate the sheet metal that way. Once I was working down in the area I took a closer look at the OEM connector, compared sizes, and elected to pass the corrugated conduit through this existing entry point. It works well and looks clean.
I celebrated the installation by driving down to Yorktown Beach, confidently backing into a parking space, and taking a nice long walk along the shore.
Most of the components for this modification originated from two companies: Rostra and McMaster-Carr. The backup housing and wire were discussed in this previous post while the remaining components were discussed here and here. The picture below is of the finished product and since the placement of the camera was made in accordance with Ram_HD CC_Camera System - Analog_2019+_Rev A.pdf (see attached) which specifies an ideal camera height of 55", the camera being centered, and at an angle of 42° relative to the ground. The reverse image displayed on my OEM center console screen is perfect.
After backing up using only side mirrors for such a long time it was refreshing to use the OEM camera once again.
My OEM tailgate was pulled from storage and it took just a few tools and a couple of minutes to remove the OEM camera. Once you remove the metal panel on the inside vertical face of the tailgate there are two screws, and one electrical connection to address. The tailgate handle will begin to move about once the screws are loosened but you still much reach inside along the top of the handle to depress the two plastic holders and then it will pop right out. After that there are four small Torx screws that are removed from a plastic retainer and out comes the camera.
The instructions for the Rostra mount suggest routing the camera's LVDS cable out the rear of the housing and this is why you see the large hole in the back. I was not excited about complicating this installation by running the wire through the door and then the wall of the camper so I elected to drill a hole in the side and pass the corrugated conduit through there. It worked out although I will state the design of the housing places the LVDS connector in conflict with the surface of the door when mounted so it was still necessary to relieve the area. If they would have made the housing another 3-5mm thicker this all could have been avoided. It's still a very nice housing though with the camera fitting perfectly inside.
Here is the corrugated conduit and LVDS exiting the housing and then turning up preparing to cross over door hinge. Time will tell if this loop works or not although I suspect it will be fine for many years.
A close up of the corrugated conduit looping up and across door hinge. In many industrial or commercial applications where a wire jumps across a door hinge you will see it looping down but in this case the assembly was so light that I elected to use this shorter and more direct route by utilizing a vertical loop.
What was really nice is the corrugated conduit I used was perfect size relative to the OEM connector on the rear of the bed. Everything fits perfectly and I wish I could say that I had planned this section this way but I didn't - I actually intended to drill a slightly larger hole, install a protective bushing, and penetrate the sheet metal that way. Once I was working down in the area I took a closer look at the OEM connector, compared sizes, and elected to pass the corrugated conduit through this existing entry point. It works well and looks clean.
I celebrated the installation by driving down to Yorktown Beach, confidently backing into a parking space, and taking a nice long walk along the shore.
Last edited:
ramblinChet
Drinks Alone
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For some time I have been planning to enhance my ability to repair tires in an emergency situation. In a previous post I share details on the ARB Speedy Seal Puncture Repair Kit Series II that I carry and thankfully have never had to use. The ARB kit deals specifically with punctures in the tread area of the tire and is a very nice kit and addresses the most common form of tire damage.
Repairing sidewalls for emergency purposes requires an different type of repair kit and after taking time to consider the various kits I could find I decided upon the 4x4 Sidewall Repair Kit by GlueTread. Initially I was planning to purchase an "agricultural tire sidewall repair kit" but I suspect that the materials used for tractor tires may be different when compared to those of personal vehicles. If anyone has additional information please feel free to share it but for now this kit should provide that next level of security just in case.
The kit includes:
Here is an interesting video:
Receipt for reference:
Repairing sidewalls for emergency purposes requires an different type of repair kit and after taking time to consider the various kits I could find I decided upon the 4x4 Sidewall Repair Kit by GlueTread. Initially I was planning to purchase an "agricultural tire sidewall repair kit" but I suspect that the materials used for tractor tires may be different when compared to those of personal vehicles. If anyone has additional information please feel free to share it but for now this kit should provide that next level of security just in case.
The kit includes:
- [2] 4" x 4.5" patchs
- [2] 3” x 1.5” patchs
- [1] 2oz bottle GlueTread accelerator
- [4] bottles GlueTread adhesive
- [8] applicator tips
- [10] pieces of sand paper
- pressure strength: 40 PSI
- bond strength: 5,000 PSI
- patch durometer: 75
- initial cure time: 30 seconds
- full cure time: 1 hour
- immediate cure when used with GlueTread accelerator
Here is an interesting video:
Receipt for reference:
ramblinChet
Drinks Alone
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Today I installed the 2 Low UnLoc from BD Diesel and although they provided a switch, I decided to use auxiliary switch number six. Being able to control power delivery in an adventure vehicle is good and that is why from the factory, we can select two-wheel drive high, four-wheel drive high, and four-wheel drive low. With this kit now we can add two-wheel drive low to the list of options.
For those situations where you are in a high-traction environment and would benefit from being in two-wheel drive low range, this is where the 2 Low UnLoc is especially beneficial. Maybe I am dating myself but back in the 80s and 90s it was not uncommon for Jeep CJ owners to modify their Dana 300 transfer case with a twin-stick application which permitted two-wheel drive low range along with a variety of other options such as running the front axle in high range with the rear axle in low range.
Now here was the challenge, using my Aux 6 switch in my cab which pushes a 12 Vdc signal through the firewall, and then out to a auxiliary connector under the hood. But my plan required that same 12 Vdc signal to come back through the firewall and into the cab to command the 2 Low UnLoc, and I did not want to punch a hole through the firewall. Here was my solution: an example of how you can loop one auxiliary circuit (PK/YE) and pass it back through the OEM wiring. The pass through circuit (VT/YE) emerge under the dash up above the parking brake - there is a light grey six-pin connector that you can plug in to.
Here is the same connector and loop circuit now prepared to be installed under the hood. Whenever possible, I install Electriduct polypropylene wire loom which is "light weight and resistant to abrasion, gasoline, oil and other chemicals allows this corrugated conduit to work in extreme environments found around engine bays, manufacturing machinery and hydraulic systems." Then I wrap the wiring loom in Tesa Triple A 51036 cloth tape which itself "provides excellent abrasion protection of automotive harnesses and withstands high temperatures and demanding environmental conditions."
Below is the Drivetrain Control Module on the up high in the passenger footwell. The OEM blue connector (under the black protective cover) is disconnected and the 2 Low UnLoc is attached in-line. This is post install and the black cover required only minor trimming to fit back on since new circuits used additional room.
This is looking up under the steering column off to the right towards the center stack. The large bundle of protected wires looping down from the upper left that are zip-tied off to the metal frame to the right are wires originating from that light gray connector I mentioned earlier that was up above the parking brake in the back corner. I really wanted to route this bundle up over the steering column but despite my best efforts, I was unsuccessful. You can also see the much smaller bundle of wires with the shiny cloth protective cover that is looped around and zip-tied - this the the wiring harness for the 2 Low UnLoc coming through the center stack from the passenger side. I am not sure what the open ended three wire connector hanging down is. Does anybody know?
There we are - press Aux 6, shift into four-low, and turn as hard as you wish without any front wheel hopping or drivetrain binding. Yippee-Ki-Yay!
Here is the kit from BD Diesel. It did feel funny purchasing something from a diesel shop knowing that I was driving a gas truck, lol. See attached instructions if you are interested in performing this quick upgrade.
Here is a fantastic video which provides great details on the auxiliary switch package, pass through circuits, etc.
For those situations where you are in a high-traction environment and would benefit from being in two-wheel drive low range, this is where the 2 Low UnLoc is especially beneficial. Maybe I am dating myself but back in the 80s and 90s it was not uncommon for Jeep CJ owners to modify their Dana 300 transfer case with a twin-stick application which permitted two-wheel drive low range along with a variety of other options such as running the front axle in high range with the rear axle in low range.
Now here was the challenge, using my Aux 6 switch in my cab which pushes a 12 Vdc signal through the firewall, and then out to a auxiliary connector under the hood. But my plan required that same 12 Vdc signal to come back through the firewall and into the cab to command the 2 Low UnLoc, and I did not want to punch a hole through the firewall. Here was my solution: an example of how you can loop one auxiliary circuit (PK/YE) and pass it back through the OEM wiring. The pass through circuit (VT/YE) emerge under the dash up above the parking brake - there is a light grey six-pin connector that you can plug in to.
Here is the same connector and loop circuit now prepared to be installed under the hood. Whenever possible, I install Electriduct polypropylene wire loom which is "light weight and resistant to abrasion, gasoline, oil and other chemicals allows this corrugated conduit to work in extreme environments found around engine bays, manufacturing machinery and hydraulic systems." Then I wrap the wiring loom in Tesa Triple A 51036 cloth tape which itself "provides excellent abrasion protection of automotive harnesses and withstands high temperatures and demanding environmental conditions."
Below is the Drivetrain Control Module on the up high in the passenger footwell. The OEM blue connector (under the black protective cover) is disconnected and the 2 Low UnLoc is attached in-line. This is post install and the black cover required only minor trimming to fit back on since new circuits used additional room.
This is looking up under the steering column off to the right towards the center stack. The large bundle of protected wires looping down from the upper left that are zip-tied off to the metal frame to the right are wires originating from that light gray connector I mentioned earlier that was up above the parking brake in the back corner. I really wanted to route this bundle up over the steering column but despite my best efforts, I was unsuccessful. You can also see the much smaller bundle of wires with the shiny cloth protective cover that is looped around and zip-tied - this the the wiring harness for the 2 Low UnLoc coming through the center stack from the passenger side. I am not sure what the open ended three wire connector hanging down is. Does anybody know?
There we are - press Aux 6, shift into four-low, and turn as hard as you wish without any front wheel hopping or drivetrain binding. Yippee-Ki-Yay!
Here is the kit from BD Diesel. It did feel funny purchasing something from a diesel shop knowing that I was driving a gas truck, lol. See attached instructions if you are interested in performing this quick upgrade.
Here is a fantastic video which provides great details on the auxiliary switch package, pass through circuits, etc.
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Darkone
Well-Known Member
I’ve really want this for backing up trailers, and have maneuverability rather than have the front end binding.
ramblinChet
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Today began with meeting some old friends at a gathering if the Middle Peninsula Jeep Association here in Virginia. I have been a member of this fine club off and on for the past two decades and enjoyed many trail rides with the folks. Prior to that I was a member of the White Sands Jeep Club located in the panhandle of Florida in the late '90s and early '00s. Scratching my head, I am having trouble remembering the name of the first Jeep club I was ever a member of in Pennsylvania in during the mid-90s.
I guess the more important fact is that they were all good clubs overflowing with adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts. Most clubs welcomed all levels from street legal stock Jeeps up through extensively modified off-road only rigs. The organized rides were most often a day ride, some were a two-day weekend, and the distances covered on the trail were often a dozen miles or so. Now the terrain was often a bit more challenging with many obstacles and when it comes to pushing a dozen plus Jeeps with different levels of modification and a variety of driver skill levels, sometimes it took the group an hour or longer to clear a single obstacle.
It would be interesting to see if there are overland-specific clubs that are beginning to spring up and how they operate as compared to a traditional Jeep club. If you have a club in your area I would encourage you to attend a meeting or event since there are all sorts of folks with a wide variety of rigs who share a common love or adventure.
After spending a few hours reminiscing with the Jeep folks I stopped over my buddies house to quickly yank off my anti-roll bar links. Ed has an amazing tool selection with most handtools being Proto, MAC, etc. In his garage is an equally impressive range of professional air-powered tools to include an industrial air compressor, aftercooler, etc. I wanted to take him to lunch so stopping over to zip four nuts off was a great excuse.
Once I returned home I began to compare the OEM anti-roll bar links (outboard) to the recently procured BDS #122414 disconnects. Measuring from the top surface where the link attached to the anti-roll bar down to the center of the horizontal mounting bolt which connects the link to the axle we have the following overall lengths:
Spoiler alert - BDS disconnects are not compatible with the AEV raised track bar tower which is part of their high steer kit.
While the passenger side fit as expected, there was conflict on the passenger side. The first problem is the fact that the linch pin is not able to be fully seated and locked. Once the linch pin has been removed it is not possible to slide the BDS disconnect off the disconnect stud since there is conflict with the AEV raised track bar tower. As this picture shows - AEV designed this bracket to be used with only the OEM link.
Here is a picture showing more of the AEV raised track bar tower with the BDS link removed. The only possible solution I can think of right now would include an extension (green) of the existing tower and removal (red) of additional material thus permitting the BDS disconnect to slid off and be disconnected. After reviewing this objectively, this would take far too long since I was not the original designer of the tower and do not have access to the projected loads imposed upon it by the track bar. In short, it's just too much trouble for very little reward. At this point I will restore my rig to its previous condition and place the BDS disconnects on the shelf for the time being. There are other more important projects that must be addressed right now.
I guess the more important fact is that they were all good clubs overflowing with adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts. Most clubs welcomed all levels from street legal stock Jeeps up through extensively modified off-road only rigs. The organized rides were most often a day ride, some were a two-day weekend, and the distances covered on the trail were often a dozen miles or so. Now the terrain was often a bit more challenging with many obstacles and when it comes to pushing a dozen plus Jeeps with different levels of modification and a variety of driver skill levels, sometimes it took the group an hour or longer to clear a single obstacle.
It would be interesting to see if there are overland-specific clubs that are beginning to spring up and how they operate as compared to a traditional Jeep club. If you have a club in your area I would encourage you to attend a meeting or event since there are all sorts of folks with a wide variety of rigs who share a common love or adventure.
After spending a few hours reminiscing with the Jeep folks I stopped over my buddies house to quickly yank off my anti-roll bar links. Ed has an amazing tool selection with most handtools being Proto, MAC, etc. In his garage is an equally impressive range of professional air-powered tools to include an industrial air compressor, aftercooler, etc. I wanted to take him to lunch so stopping over to zip four nuts off was a great excuse.
Once I returned home I began to compare the OEM anti-roll bar links (outboard) to the recently procured BDS #122414 disconnects. Measuring from the top surface where the link attached to the anti-roll bar down to the center of the horizontal mounting bolt which connects the link to the axle we have the following overall lengths:
- OEM 5.50"
- BDS 8.75"
Spoiler alert - BDS disconnects are not compatible with the AEV raised track bar tower which is part of their high steer kit.
While the passenger side fit as expected, there was conflict on the passenger side. The first problem is the fact that the linch pin is not able to be fully seated and locked. Once the linch pin has been removed it is not possible to slide the BDS disconnect off the disconnect stud since there is conflict with the AEV raised track bar tower. As this picture shows - AEV designed this bracket to be used with only the OEM link.
Here is a picture showing more of the AEV raised track bar tower with the BDS link removed. The only possible solution I can think of right now would include an extension (green) of the existing tower and removal (red) of additional material thus permitting the BDS disconnect to slid off and be disconnected. After reviewing this objectively, this would take far too long since I was not the original designer of the tower and do not have access to the projected loads imposed upon it by the track bar. In short, it's just too much trouble for very little reward. At this point I will restore my rig to its previous condition and place the BDS disconnects on the shelf for the time being. There are other more important projects that must be addressed right now.
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Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
I would modify the swaybar mounting tabs on the axle before I modified the track bar mount on the axle. Looks like the swaybar mount tab would be easy to move forward to clear the bracket but I can’t tell fully from the pics. Eyeballing it looks like you could do a pie cut, bend it over forward a little re weld it and throw a little gusset on it. Or it could be cut off and re done either would be fine.
Why modify the swaybar tab instead? Well, you Shouldn’t run into any issues at all if done correctly. but, If you did have a failure of the tab you could drive home with a broken swaybar tab whereas you can’t steer the truck with a broken track bar tab.
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ramblinChet
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Since I am still in the mid-Atlantic region working on my rig for a few more weeks I decided to head over to Overland Expo East and spend this Thursday through next Monday enjoying the event. If you have never been to an Overland Expo I would encourage you to do so. What I really enjoy is amongst the 250+ exhibitors there are many manufacturers with their full product line on display and company experts who can answer every question. This is far different when compared to conversing with retailers who themselves have a broad base of knowledge, but may not have the specialized information you seek.
Another great part is wandering around thousands of adventure rigs set up for the weekend in the attendee camping area. If you have ever wanted to see everything and talk to real folks using the equipment, this is the place to do it. On top of that there are 175+ specialized classes, slideshows, demos, and activities. There is just so much to do and see. Hope to see you there!
Another great part is wandering around thousands of adventure rigs set up for the weekend in the attendee camping area. If you have ever wanted to see everything and talk to real folks using the equipment, this is the place to do it. On top of that there are 175+ specialized classes, slideshows, demos, and activities. There is just so much to do and see. Hope to see you there!
ramblinChet
Drinks Alone
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Prior to departing for Overland Expo East I took a few minutes to complete detail work on my Rostra camera relocation housing that was recently installed. The cover did was not able to fully snap on perfectly and I suspected there was internal conflict so it was time to open it back up one final time to correct this minor issue.
Note the round hole in the door of the camper with insulation inside that I previously believed was unnecessary since I was passing the LVDS cable out the side. It turns out the rear of the LVDS connection plug sticks out past the rear of the housing by 1-2mm. While this does not seem to be much it was enough to prevent the housing cover from properly being seated. By first drilling, then grinding this hole, there is no longer any conflict and the cover is fully seated.
Here is a picture of the OEM camera that has been removed from the stock tailgate and installed into the cover of the Rostra housing. Again, I must admit that the housing was much nicer than I originally suspected it would be and the camera snaps into place perfectly.
While driving to Overland Expo East I stopped into Wakefield Peanut Company to purchase a large tin of gourmet peanuts. What is really cool is that the plant is located just a few miles west of the first commercial peanut crop that was planted in these United States around 150 years ago. When I decided to take a break along side of the road I figured why not park next to a Studebaker filled with aliens towing a flying saucer?
While at the expo I took notice of this ARB aluminum 1-gallon air tank and high temperature hose. For me on-board air system I am looking specifically for an aluminum or stainless steel tank since standard steel tanks rust inside and I do not wish to pump air filled with rust particles into the tires, tools, etc. If anyone has suggestions regarding aluminum on stainless steel tanks, or picking the optimum size tank for a given system, please share.
I was also able to examine the RIGd UltraSwing Latch which I would most likely use when I eventually design and build a custom swing-away tire carrier for my vehicle. Although a $200 price seems steep, if you take into account that my total involvement amounts to placing an order the cost is minimal for this important of a component.
An interesting tool that was displayed during one of the classes at the expo was this Quick Valve Change tool manufactured by AME International. The benefit is being able to change a damaged valve stem quickly without being required to remove the tire. And as the instructor for the class explained, even if your existing valve stem has a pressure monitor installed simply pushing the existing stem into the tire where it will toll and tumble - it will still operate for some time to provide air pressure readings to the vehicles tire monitoring system. I am not sure how necessary this tool would be for me since my AEV Salta HD wheels have recessed valve stems for added protection.
Here is an overland vehicle on a different level. Note the small motorcycle on the rear and spare tire which are able to be lowered by the permanently installed crane. Adventure vehicles such as this is essentially a Class A motorhome that is able to travel virtually anywhere.
Maybe you wish to carry along a larger motorcycle and store it on a garage inside your vehicle? This one has a powered ramp as a solution. Note the spare tire on this one is stored between the cab and camper on the passenger side.
Here is another picture showing additional details of the ramp. Although this is very cool, in my opinion, the ramp and garage take up too much living space, are also unnecessarily complex, and will only be used occasionally. In short, too much wasted space and trouble for something rarely used. In my opinion, hanging it off the rear and using a crane would be a much better choice. What are your thoughts on a vehicle such as this?
Note the round hole in the door of the camper with insulation inside that I previously believed was unnecessary since I was passing the LVDS cable out the side. It turns out the rear of the LVDS connection plug sticks out past the rear of the housing by 1-2mm. While this does not seem to be much it was enough to prevent the housing cover from properly being seated. By first drilling, then grinding this hole, there is no longer any conflict and the cover is fully seated.
Here is a picture of the OEM camera that has been removed from the stock tailgate and installed into the cover of the Rostra housing. Again, I must admit that the housing was much nicer than I originally suspected it would be and the camera snaps into place perfectly.
While driving to Overland Expo East I stopped into Wakefield Peanut Company to purchase a large tin of gourmet peanuts. What is really cool is that the plant is located just a few miles west of the first commercial peanut crop that was planted in these United States around 150 years ago. When I decided to take a break along side of the road I figured why not park next to a Studebaker filled with aliens towing a flying saucer?
While at the expo I took notice of this ARB aluminum 1-gallon air tank and high temperature hose. For me on-board air system I am looking specifically for an aluminum or stainless steel tank since standard steel tanks rust inside and I do not wish to pump air filled with rust particles into the tires, tools, etc. If anyone has suggestions regarding aluminum on stainless steel tanks, or picking the optimum size tank for a given system, please share.
I was also able to examine the RIGd UltraSwing Latch which I would most likely use when I eventually design and build a custom swing-away tire carrier for my vehicle. Although a $200 price seems steep, if you take into account that my total involvement amounts to placing an order the cost is minimal for this important of a component.
An interesting tool that was displayed during one of the classes at the expo was this Quick Valve Change tool manufactured by AME International. The benefit is being able to change a damaged valve stem quickly without being required to remove the tire. And as the instructor for the class explained, even if your existing valve stem has a pressure monitor installed simply pushing the existing stem into the tire where it will toll and tumble - it will still operate for some time to provide air pressure readings to the vehicles tire monitoring system. I am not sure how necessary this tool would be for me since my AEV Salta HD wheels have recessed valve stems for added protection.
Here is an overland vehicle on a different level. Note the small motorcycle on the rear and spare tire which are able to be lowered by the permanently installed crane. Adventure vehicles such as this is essentially a Class A motorhome that is able to travel virtually anywhere.
Maybe you wish to carry along a larger motorcycle and store it on a garage inside your vehicle? This one has a powered ramp as a solution. Note the spare tire on this one is stored between the cab and camper on the passenger side.
Here is another picture showing additional details of the ramp. Although this is very cool, in my opinion, the ramp and garage take up too much living space, are also unnecessarily complex, and will only be used occasionally. In short, too much wasted space and trouble for something rarely used. In my opinion, hanging it off the rear and using a crane would be a much better choice. What are your thoughts on a vehicle such as this?
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ramblinChet
Drinks Alone
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After less than two years it appears my Worx Storage Step Stool is nearly dead. It was purchased in December 2021 and has been used daily while climbing in and out of my camper, and also while deploying and storing the camper. It has seen quite a bit of use although I was still surprised it failed in less than two years.
This crack appeared approximately 6-8 months ago and created difficulties related to latching. It was not a big deal so I continued to use the unit.
Several months ago the center section of the top began to fail in multiple places. Keep in mind that I do not carry anything in the storage area and make a reasonable effort to place my feet around the perimeter when stepping up into my camper. It is different when stepping out, especially during darkness. As a safety measure, I place my foot into the center to prevent slipping and falling out of my camper.
With the cracks on top, rain water naturally seeps in and collects. And with the crack on the side, it will slowly leak out. What this means is that before stowing my stool in the camper after it rains, I am required to open it up and dry everything out. If I do not, the water will leak onto the floor of my camper and I will be find a small puddle when I stop and open the door.
My goal now is to select a permanent solution that is safer and will last longer. Maybe an aluminum step stand that has a height of 15-20" would best best. Does anyone have any suggestions?
This crack appeared approximately 6-8 months ago and created difficulties related to latching. It was not a big deal so I continued to use the unit.
Several months ago the center section of the top began to fail in multiple places. Keep in mind that I do not carry anything in the storage area and make a reasonable effort to place my feet around the perimeter when stepping up into my camper. It is different when stepping out, especially during darkness. As a safety measure, I place my foot into the center to prevent slipping and falling out of my camper.
With the cracks on top, rain water naturally seeps in and collects. And with the crack on the side, it will slowly leak out. What this means is that before stowing my stool in the camper after it rains, I am required to open it up and dry everything out. If I do not, the water will leak onto the floor of my camper and I will be find a small puddle when I stop and open the door.
My goal now is to select a permanent solution that is safer and will last longer. Maybe an aluminum step stand that has a height of 15-20" would best best. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
We use a kiddo potty/sink utility step for my grandma to get in and out of my truck. Made by bumbo in South Africa its tough as nails cheap and lightweight.
hdas
Member
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Curious to know what has kept you from installing some sidestep bars or rock sliders.
Have you seen the Torklift Smartstep? I think something like that might work well for you.
www.torklift.com
GLOWSTEP REVOLUTION® Uprising (Doorway Mounted)
Torklift International manufactures towing hitches, camper tiedowns and stabilizers, for all types of camper and towing requirements.