Remote start added to 2020 Tradesman (SOLVED)

[Toastynacho]

To clear up some confusion, with a 2019-21 tradesman 2500, the dealer needs to program two fobs and add the sales code "XBM" for remote start to work. BUT if you get a fob that also has the tailgate release button, that doesn't need a sales code added to work? I keep seeing a sales code "JKR" mentioned for the tailgate. I'm just not sure if I should ask my dealer to add the JKR code, or if once the fob is programmed and has the tailgate button it will work. (Yes the damper is added)

 

[Jimmy07]

To clear up some confusion, with a 2019-21 tradesman 2500, the dealer needs to program two fobs and add the sales code "XBM" for remote start to work. BUT if you get a fob that also has the tailgate release button, that doesn't need a sales code added to work? I keep seeing a sales code "JKR" mentioned for the tailgate. I'm just not sure if I should ask my dealer to add the JKR code, or if once the fob is programmed and has the tailgate button it will work. (Yes the damper is added)

Correct. Disregard any mention of JKR. We have since found out that no matter what, once a fob with the tailgate release button is programmed to the truck, it will just work. FYI- the circuits for both remote start and tailgate release are already on your current fobs. You can solder buttons onto the circuits to avoid getting new fobs programmed. https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?...ady-present-edit-mod-complete-and-works.5884/

 

[Toastynacho]

Correct. Disregard any mention of JKR. We have since found out that no matter what, once a fob with the tailgate release button is programmed to the truck, it will just work. FYI- the circuits for both remote start and tailgate release are already on your current fobs. You can solder buttons onto the circuits to avoid getting new fobs programmed. https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?...ady-present-edit-mod-complete-and-works.5884/

First of all, I want to say how incredibly helpful it is to have someone knowledgeable on a forum, but also active. I've read through this whole thread and you seem to be the bomb.org

I'm an auto tech for CarMax, and I carry my keys on my belt loop, so my fob for my 9 month old truck gets beat around and is trashed lol. I'd love to solder those buttons myself, but I also want a new physical fob shell. Is it possible to buy blank shells for these keys? If not, I'll just go the normal programming route so I can have new non-damaged fobs (and I'll put a silicone sleeve on these )

 

[Jimmy07]

First of all, I want to say how incredibly helpful it is to have someone knowledgeable on a forum, but also active. I've read through this whole thread and you seem to be the bomb.org

I'm an auto tech for CarMax, and I carry my keys on my belt loop, so my fob for my 9 month old truck gets beat around and is trashed lol. I'd love to solder those buttons myself, but I also want a new physical fob shell. Is it possible to buy blank shells for these keys? If not, I'll just go the normal programming route so I can have new non-damaged fobs (and I'll put a silicone sleeve on these )

I haven’t seen any fob shells or button overlays available by themselves, just the sleeves.

 

[Toastynacho]

First of all, I want to say how incredibly helpful it is to have someone knowledgeable on a forum, but also active. I've read through this whole thread and you seem to be the bomb.org

I'm an auto tech for CarMax, and I carry my keys on my belt loop, so my fob for my 9 month old truck gets beat around and is trashed lol. I'd love to solder those buttons myself, but I also want a new physical fob shell. Is it possible to buy blank shells for these keys? If not, I'll just go the normal programming route so I can have new non-damaged fobs (and I'll put a silicone sleeve on these )

And to piggyback off this, I just checked and I don't harness on the upper left of the hood latch. So the kit makes sense at this point. Is that kit sold with fobs that also have the tailgate drop button? If not I'll have to piece a kit together myself.

 

[Toastynacho]

I've found the part number for the hoodlatch with the ajar switch earlier in this thread, part number 68261143AA seems to be the current model year part still. Only issue is I can't seem to get the harness for that switch.

 

[SOKY_Ram]

I've found the part number for the hoodlatch with the ajar switch earlier in this thread, part number 68261143AA seems to be the current model year part still. Only issue is I can't seem to get the harness for that switch.

I made my own harness. Its only two wires. One goes to ground and the other goes to the BCM. You can order the connector and pins from mouser electronics.

This link below should take you back into Jimmy's post that has the part numbers.

Remote start added to 2020 Tradesman (SOLVED)

I just purchased one. So now I just need to take it to my local dealer to be programmed? Yes.

hdrams.com

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

I made my own harness. Its only two wires. One goes to ground and the other goes to the BCM. You can order the connector and pins from mouser electronics.

This link below should take you back into Jimmy's post that has the part numbers.

Remote start added to 2020 Tradesman (SOLVED)

I just purchased one. So now I just need to take it to my local dealer to be programmed? Yes.

hdrams.com

Is the switch NO or NC if its NC then a piece of wire to ground from the BCM would suffice if you didnt want to do the hood latch?

 

[SOKY_Ram]

Is the switch NO or NC if its NC then a piece of wire to ground from the BCM would suffice if you didnt want to do the hood latch?

I think you can do this with a 1k ohm resistor wired in somehow. I got the latch off ebay for like 30 bucks and the connectors weren't much either. I thought about bypassing but my luck i would be working on motor with my keys in my pocket and accidently start it.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

I think you can do this with a 1k ohm resistor wired in somehow. I got the latch off ebay for like 30 bucks and the connectors weren't much either. I thought about bypassing but my luck i would be working on motor with my keys in my pocket and accidently start it.

Thats not bad for the latch, mine came with one but now im curious

 

[Jgouldski]

My hood latch has the hole for the wiring connector screw (I believe that's what it's for as my latch doesn't have the wires, but it has the hole where there is a screw in the harness picture from post #14). Does this mean that I don't need a new hood latch, I just need the wiring and connector for this to make the remote start work?

 

[Toastynacho]

My hood latch has the hole for the wiring connector screw (I believe that's what it's for as my latch doesn't have the wires, but it has the hole where there is a screw in the harness picture from post #14). Does this mean that I don't need a new hood latch, I just need the wiring and connector for this to make the remote start work?

Every hood latch has the opening for the connector, it just depends whether or not you have the harness. If you don't, there Is no way to buy that harness from ram separately, it's a special item sold only in the remote start kit. I didn't have the harness so I just went ahead and got the kit. (You can make your own harness should you choose, but I'd rather it be a ram "approved" part)

 

[Jgouldski]

Every hood latch has the opening for the connector, it just depends whether or not you have the harness. If you don't, there Is no way to buy that harness from ram separately, it's a special item sold only in the remote start kit. I didn't have the harness so I just went ahead and got the kit. (You can make your own harness should you choose, but I'd rather it be a ram "approved" part)

Gotcha. I was confused by others talking about replacing the hood latch when they didn't have the harness/connector. It must have just been being used as a catch all term for those that didn't have the harness and had to get the whole kit to get it. I've ordered the pins and connectors that Jimmy linked in an earlier post to make the harness myself. Since I have some vehicle wiring experience I figured I'd give it a shot.

On another note, if I do have a wire in pin 11 of the C1 connector on the BCM, where does it go if it's not going to the hood ajar sensor? I read through the entire 28 pages of this thread a few days ago, but can't remember if anyone discussed it so forgive me if it has been.

 

[DBRK]

Can anyone recommend somewhere online to buy a key fob with remote start? From reading through this thread it sounds like fobs from carandtruckremotes.com may or may not work. Searching around online the other sellers I can find are either out of stock or listed as refurbished.

I'm looking for one with remote start, but no tailgate release button.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Can anyone recommend somewhere online to buy a key fob with remote start? From reading through this thread it sounds like fobs from carandtruckremotes.com may or may not work. Searching around online the other sellers I can find are either out of stock or listed as refurbished.

I'm looking for one with remote start, but no tailgate release button.

Have you thought about just soldering the buttons on the board like some of us have done? Why would you not want the tailgate release it can be pretty handy

 

[Jimmy07]

Can anyone recommend somewhere online to buy a key fob with remote start? From reading through this thread it sounds like fobs from carandtruckremotes.com may or may not work. Searching around online the other sellers I can find are either out of stock or listed as refurbished.

I'm looking for one with remote start, but no tailgate release button.

Any official mopar parts supplier:
Bamwholesale, allmoparparts, factorychryslerparts, moparpartsinc, etc. Those are all dealership parts departments throughout the country that sell parts at a discount cheaper that you usually get from your local dealership.

 

[DBRK]

Have you thought about just soldering the buttons on the board like some of us have done? Why would you not want the tailgate release it can be pretty handy

I would like to have another spare fob, and I am putting a flatbed on the truck, so no need for the tailgate release. If I was leaving the bed on then I would definitely would get the release.

Any official mopar parts supplier:
Bamwholesale, allmoparparts, factorychryslerparts, moparpartsinc, etc. Those are all dealership parts departments throughout the country that sell parts at a discount cheaper that you usually get from your local dealership.

Thanks for the info. I think part #68475353AA is the fob with lock/unlock/remote start. Can anyone confirm if that is correct? Also, it looks like the key blank is not included in this part number?

 

[Toastynacho]

Gotcha. I was confused by others talking about replacing the hood latch when they didn't have the harness/connector. It must have just been being used as a catch all term for those that didn't have the harness and had to get the whole kit to get it. I've ordered the pins and connectors that Jimmy linked in an earlier post to make the harness myself. Since I have some vehicle wiring experience I figured I'd give it a shot.

On another note, if I do have a wire in pin 11 of the C1 connector on the BCM, where does it go if it's not going to the hood ajar sensor? I read through the entire 28 pages of this thread a few days ago, but can't remember if anyone discussed it so forgive me if it has been.

Gotcha. I was confused by others talking about replacing the hood latch when they didn't have the harness/connector. It must have just been being used as a catch all term for those that didn't have the harness and had to get the whole kit to get it. I've ordered the pins and connectors that Jimmy linked in an earlier post to make the harness myself. Since I have some vehicle wiring experience I figured I'd give it a shot.

On another note, if I do have a wire in pin 11 of the C1 connector on the BCM, where does it go if it's not going to the hood ajar sensor? I read through the entire 28 pages of this thread a few days ago, but can't remember if anyone discussed it so forgive me if it has been.

Not totally sure. I did have a wire in the 11 pin on the harness from the BCM. I went ahead and pulled it out and tucked it aside per instructions. Who knows, it may just terminate In the harness bundle somewhere. By the way, it is literally impossible to run that wire from the top, even with the PDC removed. Removing the wheel well liner gives you direct access to the firewall seal.

 

[Jgouldski]

Not totally sure. I did have a wire in the 11 pin on the harness from the BCM. I went ahead and pulled it out and tucked it aside per instructions. Who knows, it may just terminate In the harness bundle somewhere. By the way, it is literally impossible to run that wire from the top, even with the PDC removed. Removing the wheel well liner gives you direct access to the firewall seal.

Oh great. Last night I looked at the clearance under the dash to access the BCM and holy jaysus. If that's not worse than the wiring in the engine compartment then hoo boy.... Even to get the amp removed for more access looks like a PITA. The bolt heads are literally right against a wire bundle that has tree mounts right beside on either side.

I was thinking of physically tracing the wire from pin 11 and possibly just using that wire for this circuit, but that may be more work than it's worth since the wire bundles are usually wrapped in tape and then in the velcro/plastic stuff.

 

[Jimmy07]

Oh great. Last night I looked at the clearance under the dash to access the BCM and holy jaysus. If that's not worse than the wiring in the engine compartment then hoo boy.... Even to get the amp removed for more access looks like a PITA. The bolt heads are literally right against a wire bundle that has tree mounts right beside on either side.

I was thinking of physically tracing the wire from pin 11 and possibly just using that wire for this circuit, but that may be more work than it's worth since the wire bundles are usually wrapped in tape and then in the velcro/plastic stuff.

If the wire is present at pin 11 on the BCM C1 connector, but there is no hood latch connector, then it terminates at pin 9 of the XY110A in-line connector. Look for it there, instead of trying to get to the BCM first, because if it’s not in the xy110 connector, then you know it’s not at the BCM. The wire is purple with a blue stripe, and you’re looking for it on the female connector half with the lever.