I did some youtube research, and picked up a few tips for wiring the switches. The 5-gang switch panel and the usb/12v accessory panel both come pre-wired, which is nice, except that each switch is daisy-chained onto the next. That means that the load is traveling through all of the switches.
Incorporating the accessory fuse box is probably overkill for my application, but I wanted to make it a robust system that can potentially handle higher loads in the future. (if nothing else, just to have the experience of doing it). It took a little bit of brainstorming as to the best way to incorporate everything, but this is what I came up with:
I separated each of the switches by cutting the wires running between them, and instead ran a new wire from the fuse panel up to each switch. That means that instead of having one power source feeding everything, each switch has its own separate, fused, 12v line. (With the exception of a couple of switches that pull from the same fuse, because the fuse box only has 6 fused outputs. For those switches, I am using them for the led lights, which will use a very minimal amperage and can share a fuse).
The second next goal that I needed to wrap my brain around was having a main power switch to everything. I was tempted to run the large 12v hot and 12v ground directly to the fuse box, but in that case everything would have had power running to it at all times. I wanted to be able to have a main power switch that would be easy to access. I decided to use the illuminated rocker switch that's built into the usb/12v accessory panel. Usually, this switch would just power the USB outlets, the built-in voltage gauge, and the 12v socket on that same panel. Since I had already decided to re-wire the switches, it wasn't a big deal to re-wire this one as well.
So, what I decided to do was run the 12v hot from the Curt harness directly to this blue switch, and then run the return line back to the fuse box, to power all of the fuses. The only downside of this setup is that all of the power is running through that switch, and because it's just a relatively cheap Amazon unit, I don't know how much amperage it's actually rated for. However, if this becomes an issue, (ie if the switch burns out), I can re-wire that part of it easily enough.
Since the blue rocker switch won't be powering the 12v and USB accessories on that same panel, I opted to run wires to two of the 5-gang switches to handle those duties.