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Fender Flares?

JinwA

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Either put paint protection tape under the flares or use some 3M double sided trim tape between the rubber and paint (make sure you use adhesive promoter) or the paint will get rashed.

If I posted pics of the paint rash from the Bushwacker flare's rubber "seal" on my 04.5 it would make you guys cry. They were only on for a year and blew through the clear and in some spots the base color.
You don’t need to buy “the paint protection kit” they sell online for $80. I bought the 3/16” masking at Auto Zone for $9. I went to an Auto paint store and bought a roll of Scotchgard Pro .5 W x 30’ for $22. That was enough for all four wheel wells. I checked the squish and it was wide enough. Just have to be a little more precise. When you install the flare to apply the masking tape tighten it down, gently work out the edges of the seal. Loosen it back up and then retighten. It will move just a bit. Then do your masking tape with about a 1/16 gap.
I was very pleased with the fit. Very snug all around. Still I am in the desert and sand will get between the seal and fender and rub the paint without it. After 1 year the front wheel splat which did not have film under it had scratches, the rear which had the film wasn’t. They were both factory installs. I don’t know why they didn’t put the same film on the front.
 
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Brutal_HO

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Truck suspensions and flex have changed in the last 15 years. Saying that the rubber will rot or "rash" through the paint on aluminum panels and completely rub through is absolutely incorrect. I don't know if you constantly drove in snow and spit salt/gravel all over the paint, but protective film is thin urethane plastic. The adhesive is a rubber gum glue that sits directly on the paint, essentially protecting it just like the OEM rubber gasket does. If a Mopar part eats through the paint in 1 year, you can be sure the dealer falls on it... especially with a mopar paint protection plan.

Were you replying to me?

Perhaps you misunderstood what I wrote. Also, I was addressing the thread, not you specifically, and the comment applies more to aftermarket flares than OEM.

First, steel or aluminum has nothing to do with the paint. Our trucks do not have aluminum body panels so I don't know why that matters.

A rubber gasket alone, without being adhered/bonded to the paint WILL rash. Particularly if you drive on dirt or gravel roads. Dirt and debris works its way under the rubber and abrades the paint. There's also a gasket at the bottom front of the bed on these newer trucks that has been reported to rapidly rash the cab paint.

It's hard to tell with certainty, but it appears your flares have some gaps and are not bonded to the paint so don't be surprised if there's paint rash when dirt works under the gasket. You will likely never see it if the flares never come off, but those putting on larger (aftermarket) flares, then changing to smaller (OEM) flares, will regret not protecting the paint. I speak from experience. My buddy's 08 with Bushwacker flares is AFU too.

But hey, it's your truck(s) do what you want.

1587787970778.png
 

.genomer

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The photo was taken after application and the new rubber gasket had since seated properly. Our panels are steel and hood aluminum. This was brought up because paint, sun and debris work differently on panels like these versus urethane. It wasn't specifically what was focused on, though.

The primary issues with debris between paint and gaskets revolves around the friction under the seal. Maybe we're debating the same thing here, but utilizing the Bushwacker gasket, or in my case Mopar, should supply a seal to prevent build up inside of the two body panels. There just isn't enough flex and friction between the fender and flare to cause substantial damage, as you indicated. Will there be minor scratching and swirls? Ofcourse, but the paint should last longer than a sun-damaged hood. If this wasn't the case, all modern cars and trucks would see huge issues with the rubber seals along windshields, door handles, lighting that touches body panels etc.

The bigger issues come with the stock flares from the factory. They are two painted panels, in a high debris traffic area, that aren't seperated by a soft medium. Those fall within the lines that you talk about. I don't know how often people plan on changing out their fender flares. That would just seem like a headache.
 

Squatch

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These are SCA, I contacted them and asked them to sell. They said nope, gotta buy a whole truck to get the flares. I bet they could make a lot on flares if they would sell them...This was said earlier in the string, but man I think these look great. 463DD5CC-39D4-4918-923F-46C764BE9CE3.jpeg
 
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Squatch

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I think the difference is in the coverage and the bulk in general, the SCAs reminds me of the coverage on the bushwacker max fender flares offered for 2018 models. I’m consider just going that route. C00D4B63-3024-4DE6-B371-EC5408768006.jpeg
 

JinwA

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It’s all about what suits you. I was very happy with what I used. Fit was better than I thought it would be. I did have to finish trimming 1 flare. End of the day I am happy.257D0C65-8F93-4715-9DEE-711A7D82118B.jpeg
 

Dakrt23

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I just wish there was one aftermarket flare set that had the wider coverage but NO faux bolts around the edge. I actually bought some bushwhacker for my old grand Cherokee with intent of filling the bolt holes and smoothing/installing and every body shop I talked to said the material they use is super hard to work with so no go, sold em. Just can’t do the fake bolt look. AEV is fine but don’t want to cut the truck.
 

Parkerlouis13

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How bad are those cheap flares off of ebay? I saw a member use some oem ones for 2018 Ram trucks with minor modifications. Can't see myself spending close to 500 bucks during this time.
 

Cinderblock_sniper

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Not sure if this has been asked or answered already, but will flares off a Tradesman Powerwagon\Powerwagon, work on a regular Tradesman? I know the Laramie flares need the holes in the fender, I wasn't sure if the other ones did. I'm using part #Mopar (6MS37GXHAB)
 
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Not sure if this has been asked or answered already, but will flares off a Tradesman Powerwagon\Powerwagon, work on a regular Tradesman? I know the Laramie flares need the holes in the fender, I wasn't sure if the other ones did. I'm using part #Mopar (6MS37GXHAB)
They need the holes as well.
If anyone is interested the part numbers for the four power wagon flares are
6MS35GXHAC
6MS34GXHAC
6MS36GXHAB
6MS37GXHAB
 

JinwA

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Honestly, when I found out they wanted the price of the flares to paint them.....I will buy another set when they look bad. Black works on almost any truck.9AF80B5B-51EA-46C6-A7FB-3D240A55CD8D.jpeg
 
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Thought I'd update my search on my '17. Yes I know this is for the 19+ trucks, but I added the 19+ PW flares and spats to my '17, bolted right up, I just cut a couple of the pins off as I don't have the holes in the face of the fender. I'm 95% sure I'd be the same for the 19+ HDs that didn't come with factory flares.
 

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TogaLock77

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How bad are those cheap flares off of ebay? I saw a member use some oem ones for 2018 Ram trucks with minor modifications. Can't see myself spending close to 500 bucks during this time.

I’m wondering the same thing. $500 plus the cost to paint match. Ouch.
 
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I’m wondering the same thing. $500 plus the cost to paint match. Ouch.
The 19+ OEM flares are actually pretty inexpensive. And will fit 10+ HDs with very minor modifications to them.

The P/N's for the flat laramie style flares
6MS44TZZAC
6MS45TZZAC
6MS46TZZAC
6MS47TZZAC

The P/N's for the power wagon style flares with the upset at the top
6MS35GXHAC
6MS34GXHAC
6MS36GXHAB
6MS37GXHAB

The P/Ns for wheel spats that kind of interconnect to the above flares (black pieces that protect the bottom of the box & fenders)
These are the P/N's for a 6.5' box, an 8' box would need different pieces for the front/leading edge of the box
68362312AC
68362313AC
68362320AD
68362321AD
68362316AD
68362317AD
 

TogaLock77

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The 19+ OEM flares are actually pretty inexpensive. And will fit 10+ HDs with very minor modifications to them.

The P/N's for the flat laramie style flares
6MS44TZZAC
6MS45TZZAC
6MS46TZZAC
6MS47TZZAC

The P/N's for the power wagon style flares with the upset at the top
6MS35GXHAC
6MS34GXHAC
6MS36GXHAB
6MS37GXHAB

The P/Ns for wheel spats that kind of interconnect to the above flares (black pieces that protect the bottom of the box & fenders)
These are the P/N's for a 6.5' box, an 8' box would need different pieces for the front/leading edge of the box
68362312AC
68362313AC
68362320AD
68362321AD
68362316AD
68362317AD
Tell me more about these modifications
 

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