Thanks for the information; this is great news! I really like the idea of only using 1 articulink radius arm. That matches with what I did on my 80 series Land Cruiser, using a single "superflex" radius arm. I'm guessing that axle wrap is only a concern when towing heavy in 4wd. (correct me if I'm wrong) So, in most towing cases, it wouldn't be a concern. Ok, last couple of questions... Do you Power Wagon owners ever swap out your radius arms for something else? (is there a way for me to get one used?) Or, do I need to buy one new? If I was to buy one new, is the dealer the only place I could get one? Or is there a better online source for one?
Thanks for all of your help! This forum is great.
Axle wrap itself isn't so much an issue, but when your tires break traction it becomes axle hop, which is the easiest (and almost exclusive) way to break axle shafts in these trucks. Very easy to get axle wrap in snow. This is a combination of rolling the axles because of bushing deflection, and then losing tire traction on the ground and the axle(s) unloading. The best solution is airing tires down and using good driving habits, and knowing when you just aren't going to do well in the terrain you're in.
I’m confused. This is actually a thing? Just swapping one arm? Does it only benefit half as much as both?
Not trying to be an ass. Just honesty don’t understand.
It's a thing, but it's a rarely applied tool for vehicles that are playing the uncommon middle ground where replacing both arms would cause too much chassis roll, and replacing only one permits enough articulation to do what they need.
I would too. I'd be happy to update this thread with my new numbers if I can get my hands on an articulink radius arm.
I don't want to take this too far but I read that the power wagon had unique ID rear control arms as well. I wonder if the rear control arms allow for more motion than standard 2500s. Has anyone flexed their truck out and measured the compressed and extended lengths versus flat on the ground? I did a quick test last weekend and measured the space in my bump stops here:
So, I'm really interested in comparing my AEV Prospector (stock 2500 springs) to power wagons to learn more about what limits and increases articulation. I saw a video on Youtube of a power wagon climbing an RTI ramp. It reached 23.5 inches of height bone stock. I did a similar test this...
hdrams.com
The rear control arms I believe are mechanically and dimensionally the same, with the differences pertaining to bracket location or some other tiny thing like that. The Power Wagons also have unique frame p/n's but the differences are just the installation of nut-serts in certain holes that exist in all frames, that are used to attach the skid plates, as far as I have found.
Would it be worth / feasible making a radius arm with Johnny joints? You would get more articulation and 0 axle wrap something like 2” DOM 1/4 wall would be more than enough then you can run 2 replacement arms
The problem is that the front joints are installed into the axle rather than the radius arm. Those are where you would get articulation, and there isn't an easy way to 'upgrade' them to something with more deflection.
Hmmm... wonder if those are bigger bushings I have in my front axle...
@MDethloff Do you know?
Should be the same bushings, we had an answer for the different bushing p/n a while ago and I can't remember what it was. I believe it's the third bushing that exists inside the radius arm end of the articulink that is different from the bushings that go into the axle bracket.
This talk about swapping out one radius arm to get more flex is nonsense
I understand how it sounds backwards, but the advantage of adding one articulink is that by reducing the resistance of that one side, you then transfer that much more load to the existing factory-arm side, which then creates more deflection. You're just reducing the amount of force put out by one arm, which allows the same sum-total force of the entire system to then by unevenly distributed towards the existing factory arm, where in the completely factory system all that force would be more evenly distributed between both arms. It works. Lots of guys have found success with it. I get where you're coming from though.
As an application example for you guys, the shop truck is a 2019 2500 Cummins that has power wagon coils on both axles and the front swaybar removed, and it's an extremely stable truck with pretty minimal articulation. The radius arms make a huge difference. If you take a regular 2500, leave the 2500 coils installed, take the swaybar off, and put a jack under one radius arm knuckle, that axle stays pretty dang level as you jack it up even though the load is offset to one side.
