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Anybody Have Any Issues with the new HD's yet?

Great White North Eh

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Let me start with the garbage paint. Coming from a F350, whose paint is tough as nails, my Ram 2500 looks like it’s been sprayed with rocks. Just a shame. The paper thin hood is horrific. Transmission shifts like it has rocks inside. Love the power and responsiveness of the Cummins which carries a lot of weight but beyond that I’ll be excited to switch back.
If the grass was sooooo green on that side of the fence why did you jump to this side? :oops:
 
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Last Ford I had, the paint was as brittle as corn flakes, and had more orange peel than a Sunkist factory.
 

TOPDAWG4EVER

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Easy does it Children. How would anyone know the paint is garbage, or the hood wood shake violently at 65 pre purchase. Facts are facts.
 

Xflight29

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Easy does it Children. How would anyone know the paint is garbage, or the hood wood shake violently at 65 pre purchase. Facts are facts.
What are you talking about hood shacking at 65 MPH ? I have a 3500 2020 and everything you speak of is not true in any shape or form. you will with Chevy , GMC, Ford and Ram have issues . Ford still holds the record with RECALLS than any other manufacture in 2019 with Toyota and GMC coming in close. Show me the bad paint jobScreenshot_20200620-074449_Chrome.jpgshow me the bad paint job
 
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Squatch

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Damn Dan, he wasn’t talking about your mother. He didn’t even quote anything, so how would he get his quotes correct?
 

Wileykid

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My Asian shifts like a dream.

Man, I wish mine did. Very noticable shifting in the 2-3 gear in regular driving, which makes the Allison that my last truck had, feel like a Cadillac. Last week was my first time with this truck towing my 10K toy hauler, going down hills, when the road started leveling, and the EB kicked out, the tranny shifting to the next higher gear, is more of a jolt like you just hit something, not a solid "clunk".

Truck is going to the dealer for the emission update, and the latest tranny update. Hope this helps.
 
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Squatch

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I’m liking that the 8 speed tranny actively downshifts when slowing down and breaking, it doesn’t do a whole hell of a lot, but it’s nice to know the tranny is working with you.
 

Brutal_HO

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I drive a ford F 250 for work and your wrong. The Paint job on a F series truck is same as Ram get your quotes correct. what are you talking about paper thin hood? why wouldn't one take the weight off a non structural component ? My Asian shifts like a dream.
Funny thing is you went and bought one.

Easy does it Children. How would anyone know the paint is garbage, or the hood wood shake violently at 65 pre purchase. Facts are facts.

Let's watch the name calling. Everyone please be civil to each other.
 

Limited_One

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I have around 700 miles on mine. There are two main things that are noticeably annoying at this point. First, when going over bumps, speed bumps, uneven roads, anything that shakes the bed, there is a rattle in rear driver side that I cannot figure out. Sounds like the bed is loose on that side maybe. Second thing is the shifting...third gear is POS. I've noticed if I baby the throttle pedal it shifts pretty smooth, but if you need to "hit" it or are a little heavy on the pedal, it shifts rough into third, and then 4th is obvious the torque converter locks in. 68RFE still has downshift problems also in traffic...not as bad as previous years, but still noticable.

This is what I noticed on mine.

I had this same rattle!!! finally at 30k miles and 2 trips to the dealer who told me I was crazy! *mF** I found it myself!!! tighten down the rear sway bar end links!! takes 4 seconds.
 

Limited_One

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It's too close to the cab to be the tailgate. It's either in the floor section of the rear seat, or just under the rear section of the cab. Does everyone with the rattle have the Mega Cab?
I have done 3 things... not sure which actually fixed my rattles but I have them gone... 1st... there are threads about the sliding rear glass.. .I have put folded up paper in my window track and that seemed to help. I flipped the spacer on the rear cab mounts.. maybe helped ?? biggest thing was fixing a sound that I couldn't tell where it was coming from.. some days seemed like front suspension, other days it was in my steps maybe, some days it was my rear suspension or hitch area... turned out my rear sway bar was hanging on by a thread.... literally.... tightened them both up and is niiiiiice and peaceful... BTW mine rattled on way home from dealership with 11 miles, found It at 30k
 

Burn'n Oil

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I have done 3 things... not sure which actually fixed my rattles but I have them gone... 1st... there are threads about the sliding rear glass.. .I have put folded up paper in my window track and that seemed to help. I flipped the spacer on the rear cab mounts.. maybe helped ?? biggest thing was fixing a sound that I couldn't tell where it was coming from.. some days seemed like front suspension, other days it was in my steps maybe, some days it was my rear suspension or hitch area... turned out my rear sway bar was hanging on by a thread.... literally.... tightened them both up and is niiiiiice and peaceful... BTW mine rattled on way home from dealership with 11 miles, found It at 30k
Hey, @RamCares are ya reading this?
 

B757dr

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I also had a coolant line to the EGR cooler blow off after the first 30 miles I had it, found one other coolant line next to it the clamp was not “set”
For assembly speed some of the clamps are opened and a small pin is in a hole on the other side of the clamp. When the assembler puts the hose on to its mate they are supposed to trip the clamp release and it is tight.
assembler missed it
QC missed it
Loading on the train, offloading nothing happened.
stealer missed it on pre delivery
I did miss it.
I really let them have it when I brought it to them the next day with coolant all over my NEW engine bay.
 

jerryw1000

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Still getting the Service Anti-Lock Brake, Service Stability Control, Forward Collision Warning Unavailable, and Cruise Control Unavailable messages on vehicle start. It's gone from once every 2 or 3 days to now getting them almost daily. I've started unplugging the radar detector and CB radio from the dash 12V plug so they are not causing the problem. When I cranked it up about noon today the messages came up so I headed 40 miles up the road to my dealer. They read 4 codes: 1. C220049 - Active - Anti-lock Brake Module Internal-internal Electronic Failure. 2. C00201C - Active - ABS Pump Motor Control-Circuit Voltage Out of Range. 3. C222700 Active - ABS Disabled ECU-. 4. B156013 Stored - Cellular Antenna 1-Circuit Open. I've got an appointment for next Wednesday morning.

About 9 1/2 hours at the dealer today. Turned it in about 7:45 AM. Took the tech almost 4 hours to replace the Anti-Lock Brake Module, Anti-Lock Brake Pump, and bleed the brakes. About noon the service advisor told me no joy. Still had all of the above messages. Around 4:30 PM the service advisor told me the tech had found a burned pin in the plug that plugs into the Anti-Lock Brake Module from the Pump. He replaced the pin and apparently the truck then asked to be "programmed". Then he test drove the truck and I got it back about 5:15 PM. Everything was working on the 40 mile drive home. Even played with the Adaptive Cruise Control for the first time. I'll keep my fingers crossed. The tech thinks that whatever happned to the Anti-Lock Brake Pump fried the Module and pin in the connector.
 

Squatch

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Anybody else reach out and turn the fan speed knob instead of the transmission knob when going out of reverse to drive or vice versa? I’m waiting for the day that I turn my fan off thinking I took it out of reverse and into forward, hit the gas and drive through my neighbors fence ;)
 

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