AUX pass-thru wiring.

[Wmhjr]

OK folks, THANKS! I'm hoping somebody can verify that I'm doing this right.

I want to take my Aux 2 switch, and use it to power BJ reverse lights in the back (not wired to the reverse circuit).

So,

Jump Dark Grey 2 (F602) to Light Grey 4 (G425)

On the in cab connector (shown) jump Violet/Yellow (5) (G425) to Red/White (4) (A500). Red/White is currently jumped to another pin - so I cut that and use the blunt end from the #4 connector to connect to the Violet/Yellow (5).

Then use the Red/White heavier blunt cut wire for power to the lights in the back.

Either that's correct, or I'm really screwed up (or both).

 

[matthewn246]

Ok, I'll try to figure it out...

So, here is everything that my wiring kit came with:

View attachment 14436


There is another set of wires with a black plug, but no white jumper. If I remember from reading other threads, I think the black plug was for PTO applications?

However, three of the wires in the black plug look like the correct colors to correspond with the three remaining blunt cut wires under the hood:

View attachment 14437

W547 (Beige/Dark blue)
W548 (Beige/Brown)
W549 (Beige/Dark green)

That leaves W550 (Beige/grey) as the remaining pass through in port #2 of the grey plug.

But, if that's the case, what are the remaining wires in the black plug?

(Three thin wires: black, pink, and violet).

View attachment 14438


Every time get one part of this figured out, another mystery arises.

If you still have the bag this stuff came in does it have a part number on it? I cant find it on the mopar parts website. They werent in my truck when i bought it, doesnt look like the dealer is going to send me a set.

 

[SFAngus]

If you still have the bag this stuff came in does it have a part number on it? I cant find it on the mopar parts website. They werent in my truck when i bought it, doesnt look like the dealer is going to send me a set.

I've tried looking up the part numbers, and they don't seem to exist online. You could check with your dealership parts department, but I'm not sure the bag of wires can be ordered.

 

[Brutal_HO]

OK folks, THANKS! I'm hoping somebody can verify that I'm doing this right.

I want to take my Aux 2 switch, and use it to power BJ reverse lights in the back (not wired to the reverse circuit).

So,

Jump Dark Grey 2 (F602) to Light Grey 4 (G425)

On the in cab connector (shown) jump Violet/Yellow (5) (G425) to Red/White (4) (A500). Red/White is currently jumped to another pin - so I cut that and use the blunt end from the #4 connector to connect to the Violet/Yellow (5).

Then use the Red/White heavier blunt cut wire for power to the lights in the back.

Either that's correct, or I'm really screwed up (or both).

You can repin as long as you're not connecting the Aux2/pass though to the existing Battery wire.

Take the pin 3 and move it to pin 5 if you want to connect the passthrough circuit to the RD/WH blunt cut wire. Sounds like that's what you did, just said a different way.

 

[Will_T]

Take the pin 3 and move it to pin 5 if you want to connect the passthrough circuit to the RD/WH blunt cut wire.

Dumb question, but I have not figured out how to move these pin connectors. They don't seem to just pull out and I don't see a release tab or anything?

 

[Jimmy07]

Dumb question, but I have not figured out how to move these pin connectors. They don't seem to just pull out and I don't see a release tab or anything?

On the gray connector with the two loops, there is a white piece flush with the face of the connector. Pry that out. Insert a small pick into the spot just below the terminal to pry up the tab that is locking the terminal into place, while pulling on the wire.

 

[Will_T]

Thanks to all who posted here! With so many posts and questions in this thread, it is a bit convoluted, but hopefully anyone reading through this now and in the future will find what they need to wire up the upfitter switches. Brutal's post #84 was the final perfect piece of the puzzle for me. I finished mine and all is working as I wanted.

Upfitter switches 1 thru 4 are connected into the cab under the dash. Switch 5 powers the 12 gauge wire to the rear of the truck frame. (I left the smaller 16 gauge wire at the rear truck frame as it was, ignition switched power, but not connected to any of the upfitter switches.) Finally I have switch 6 powering a wire under the hood, unused for now.

To get the 12g red/white wire at the rear truck frame changed from always on battery power to power controlled by upfitter switch 5, I did the following:
1. On the light gray upfitter connector port under the hood I jumped port 1 to port 4.
2. Then on the light gray upfitter connection plug used under the dash I removed the violet/yellow wire from position 5 and moved the red/white wire from position 3 to 5. That gave me upfitter switch 5 controlled power to the rear of the frame on that 12g red/white wire.
3. I put the violet/yellow wire into the then vacant position 3. So now that violet/yellow wire is unused, but is an always on battery connection under the dash. Can't imagine what I might want to ever use it for so I considered leaving position 3 empty so there was not an unused live wire zip tied up there. But because I can just barely fit my hand reach the plug up under the dash, I figured it easier to connect it and leave it unused rather than need it later for some unforeseen use and have to unplug that connector again! I insulated and shrink tubed the blunt cut end of the live wire so it should be safe from shorting. Hope that ends up being a good decision.

 

[Brutal_HO]

Thanks to all who posted here! With so many posts and questions in this thread, it is a bit convoluted, but hopefully anyone reading through this now and in the future will find what they need to wire up the upfitter switches. Brutal's post #84 was the final perfect piece of the puzzle for me. I finished mine and all is working as I wanted.

Upfitter switches 1 thru 4 are connected into the cab under the dash. Switch 5 powers the 12 gauge wire to the rear of the truck frame. (I left the smaller 16 gauge wire at the rear truck frame as it was, ignition switched power, but not connected to any of the upfitter switches.) Finally I have switch 6 powering a wire under the hood, unused for now.

To get the 12g red/white wire at the rear truck frame changed from always on battery power to power controlled by upfitter switch 5, I did the following:
1. On the light gray upfitter connector port under the hood I jumped port 1 to port 4.
2. Then on the light gray upfitter connection plug used under the dash I removed the violet/yellow wire from position 5 and moved the red/white wire from position 3 to 5. That gave me upfitter switch 5 controlled power to the rear of the frame on that 12g red/white wire.
3. I put the violet/yellow wire into the then vacant position 3. So now that violet/yellow wire is unused, but is an always on battery connection under the dash. Can't imagine what I might want to ever use it for so I considered leaving position 3 empty so there was not an unused live wire zip tied up there. But because I can just barely fit my hand reach the plug up under the dash, I figured it easier to connect it and leave it unused rather than need it later for some unforeseen use and have to unplug that connector again! I insulated and shrink tubed the blunt cut end of the live wire so it should be safe from shorting. Hope that ends up being a good decision.

Many of us run dash cams that require BAT+ and IGN+ wires (I do). BAT+ is used with a non-battery dashcam for bump or motion detection video capture or time-lapse capture.

Those in-cab supplies are prefect for that unless you otherwise tap into the mirror.

 

[wolfnards]

Are you guys doing this on a 19+? I see you can buy the switches for the 4thgenerationram.com site, but where do you get the kit for 19+? I have a 21 Power Wagon on order and was disappointed to find out you cant get the Aux switches in the PW.

Is this really the case? I was going to order a '21 PW and see on the build webpage the upfitter VSIM option available for $345. Is there a separate or hidden option for the AUX switches?


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[Brutal_HO]

Is this really the case? I was going to order a '21 PW and see on the build webpage the upfitter VSIM option available for $345. Is there a separate or hidden option for the AUX switches?


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No factory AUX switches for PW.

 

[wolfnards]

No factory AUX switches for PW.

Thanks for the quick reply. Apologies for the newbbie question and somewhat offtopic. Last q: so for the 21 PW would the solution be to order Upfitter VSIM option then get aftermarket AUX switches?


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[Brutal_HO]

Thanks for the quick reply. Apologies for the newbbie question and somewhat offtopic. Last q: so for the 21 PW would the solution be to order Upfitter VSIM option then get aftermarket AUX switches?


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That's what most do. Switch-Pro seems to be the most popular choice.

Why the VSIM?

You need strobes, triggers, etc?

 

[Wmhjr]

The hardest part of this entire thing is getting that %^$@# plug into the @$#% plug under the dash.

I guess it's possible that FCA could have made it harder.

 

[wolfnards]

That's what most do. Switch-Pro seems to be the most popular choice.

Why the VSIM?

You need strobes, triggers, etc?

Thanks Brutal. I'm trying to figure out the difference between Aux Switches vs VSIM. Any good links outer Wich description you can provide? My search skills are failing me...

And yes, strobes, external lights, etc...

You're awesome.


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[SFAngus]

Thanks Brutal. I'm trying to figure out the difference between Aux Switches vs VSIM. Any good links outer Wich description you can provide? My search skills are failing me...

And yes, strobes, external lights, etc...

You're awesome.


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This YouTube video from Ram's commercial team does a decent job explaining the VSIM. It's primarily designed for commercial vehicles like ambulances, tow trucks, etc. Among other things, it allows you to program the front and rear lights to wig wag.

 

[Brutal_HO]

^^ that there^^ Yea, that's pretty much it. VSIM if you want to program lights, etc.

Aux switches just to turn stuff on/off.

I believe the reason no factory AUX switch can be added to the PW is the wiring in the harness is used for the sway bar disconnect and lockers instead.

 

[wolfnards]

^^ that there^^ Yea, that's pretty much it. VSIM if you want to program lights, etc.

Aux switches just to turn stuff on/off.

I believe the reason no factory AUX switch can be added to the PW is the wiring in the harness is used for the sway bar disconnect and lockers instead.

That works make sense. Thanks for all the helpful info. I'm doing my best to soak up all the info.

Anyone here have a PW and also added Aux switches?


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[Brutal_HO]

Most of the guys are using SwitchPro or S-Pod.

There's a guy (or two?) on 5thgenrams printing switch pods to replace the overhead sunglass holder to be used with the S-Pod setup and Carling switches.

The Raptor Has A Cool Aux Switch Bank - So Can The RAM!

I am installing the finishing touches on my 2019 RAM Rebel including external lights and switches to power all the mods I am adding or have added. sPOD makes this cool switch set and it's beefy - looks OEM and my wiring tech created a 3D part that allows it to take the place where you store your...

5thgenrams.com

 

[DeepH20Driller]

Thanks for the quick reply. Apologies for the newbbie question and somewhat offtopic. Last q: so for the 21 PW would the solution be to order Upfitter VSIM option then get aftermarket AUX switches?


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I just installed Trigger4 switches. Really easy install AND you don’t have to run wires into cab. It’s all wireless! The switches that is! They come in 4 or 6 switch models.


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[Brutal_HO]

TRIGGER 6 SHOOTER Wireless Accessory Control System

The Trigger 6 Shooter Wireless Accessory Control System saves your electronic accessories' installation time! Now controls 6 Accessories!

triggercontroller.com

That's pretty cool.