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Your gun is poop

2001WS6

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My Gemtech got out of jail today. A little over 6 months for the paperwork.

BQ1RNns.jpg
 

2001WS6

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I'm very new to the suppressor game. What brand should I look for if I wanted one for an AR?
 

Rockcrawlindude

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I'm very new to the suppressor game. What brand should I look for if I wanted one for an AR?
@Brutal_HO knows better than me. Surefire just came out with a new flow through that’s supposed to be awesome. Flow through is the new hotness it seems. Huxworx used to be OSS and I believe they invented flow through suppressors.

I went with a wolfman to run on multiple calibers as it can handle 9mm or 5.56 and everything in between with some tradeoffs compared to a dedicated caliber can.
 

2001WS6

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@Brutal_HO knows better than me. Surefire just came out with a new flow through that’s supposed to be awesome. Flow through is the new hotness it seems. Huxworx used to be OSS and I believe they invented flow through suppressors.

I went with a wolfman to run on multiple calibers as it can handle 9mm or 5.56 and everything in between with some tradeoffs compared to a dedicated caliber can.
I figure I can use my Gemtech on my HK and move it over on to a 1911. Just have an adapter for the HK.

I like the idea of the Wolfman. Time to go down the rabbit hole and see what I can learn.

Thanks for the info.
 

Brutal_HO

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Most of my cans are old school, and dedicated caliber. Haven't bought (or built) one in a while.

Probably best to hang out in the FB group Silencer Enthusiast. https://www.facebook.com/groups/511387239362563

A lot is going to depend on your use - dedicated or multi cal?, barrel length, and of course, budget.

The only recommendation I would make is to not buy any rifle can that can't use HUB, it's the new "standard" mount system that makes all sorts of muzzle devices, QD, etc. interchangeable.

I had AAC cans converted and went with the DA Xeno system for all my rifles save the one 9" 300BO running a DIY can'
 

Rockcrawlindude

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I figure I can use my Gemtech on my HK and move it over on to a 1911. Just have an adapter for the HK.

I like the idea of the Wolfman. Time to go down the rabbit hole and see what I can learn.

Thanks for the info.
Depends on what you want from the can, I suppose.

I plink and I like to do it quietly. The wolfman was for me to run on my .357 lever gun shooting .38s which are silly quiet and also run 9mm subs quietly out of a pistol. The ability to run it on 5.56 is mostly novelty to me as I’m not super into AR platform but if I have a can that QDs I may as well run it.

If I wanted to mainly suppress 5.56 there are much better choices than the wolfman. As a matter of fact, if I wanted to suppress 9mm pistol mainly there are better options for that as well because the wolfman is girthy compared to an Odessa or other pistol cans. Wolfman is really a sub gun can but it’s versatile.
 

Jnrcarson

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Need a 1/2” x 28 to 1/2” x 24 bushing to install the hearing protector on my AR-9. Amazon has lots of options. Any reason to spend more $$ or just get any one that works ???
 

Brutal_HO

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Need a 1/2” x 28 to 1/2” x 24 bushing to install the hearing protector on my AR-9. Amazon has lots of options. Any reason to spend more $$ or just get any one that works ???

?

1/2-28 to 5/8-24?
or maybe 1/2-28 to 1/2-36?

What do you have that is 1/2-24?

Most 9mm carbine barrels will be 1/2-36.

 

Jnrcarson

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?

1/2-28 to 5/8-24?
or maybe 1/2-28 to 1/2-36?

What do you have that is 1/2-24?

Most 9mm carbine barrels will be 1/2-36.

I was assuming that because it currently has a standard A2 flash hider on it that it would be 1/2-28. The hearing protector is 5/8-24
 

Jnrcarson

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I’ll have to check the threads now. I might have the right thread gauge for that. If not I’ll pull the A2 flash hider off another AR and compare.
 

Crusty old shellback

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So got the Wilson combat "drop in" beavertail grip safety. So much for "drop in".
It was .070 wider and .080 longer than the original one. Would not fit in the frame. Had to do a bunch of filing, sanding, profiling and polishing to get it to fit. Once in, only a few strokes of the file to get it to mesh with the trigger bow and work good. Then I had to do some sanding/contouring to make it fit the frame perfect.
THEN I had to figure out the bluing. But it came out good .
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Jnrcarson

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I’ll have to check the threads now. I might have the right thread gauge for that. If not I’ll pull the A2 flash hider off another AR and compare.
The muzzle thread on my AR-9 is indeed 1/2”x28 so I go back to my original question. I need the bushing for 5/8”x24. Are all bushings created equal or should I get one of the more expensive ones. Thanks
 

jetrinka

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The muzzle thread on my AR-9 is indeed 1/2”x28 so I go back to my original question. I need the bushing for 5/8”x24. Are all bushings created equal or should I get one of the more expensive ones. Thanks
I don’t know anything about them but my mantra is always buy once cry once LOL
 

Brutal_HO

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The muzzle thread on my AR-9 is indeed 1/2”x28 so I go back to my original question. I need the bushing for 5/8”x24. Are all bushings created equal or should I get one of the more expensive ones. Thanks

I'd not buy any chicom part, their threads are horrid and you run a higher risk of misalignment which could mean a baffle or endcap strike.

Any 1/2x28-5/8x24 adapter that fits your need and budget from a reputable e-tailer or local gunstore.

Here's 2 good options that won't add any real length and are reputable:


$30 is nothing for an expensive can.

Other than those I listed,

JoeBobOutfitters
Brownells
Midway

Forgot to ask, are you putting a rifle can on, or a pistol can? A pistol can would typically use a fixed barrel spacer in the thread size you need without an adapter.
 
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Rockcrawlindude

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So got the Wilson combat "drop in" beavertail grip safety. So much for "drop in".
It was .070 wider and .080 longer than the original one. Would not fit in the frame. Had to do a bunch of filing, sanding, profiling and polishing to get it to fit. Once in, only a few strokes of the file to get it to mesh with the trigger bow and work good. Then I had to do some sanding/contouring to make it fit the frame perfect.
THEN I had to figure out the bluing. But it came out good .
View attachment 66120View attachment 66121
I’ve always heard there is no such thing as a drop in part for a 1911.
 

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