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TPMS (TIS) sensors for trailer (SOLVED - see 1st post) aka TTPMS - Trailer TPMS

Brutal_HO

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Good writeup @1FastHemi .

Hopefully we'll get this sorted out and I will have success pairing my current 433Mhz non-Mopar sensors too and can run down my process. I have screw on sensors and for the Tireminder, it's just start pairing and unscrew to zero(0) PSI.
 

Brutal_HO

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I took the currently (relevant) images and womped this draft up to post and verify with the collective TTPMS braintrust.

I tried to keep it simple with no words and just color coding.

We can add part numbers, process, etc. after it's all sorted out. Based on @Jimmy07 and @g00fy great input, it may just be jumping pins 2-3 and 6-7 in that overhead XY444A connector if you don't care/think someone is going to remotely hack your CAN bus. The TIM end D3922A connector is shown but may not be relevant.

This is a great verification, but in the end, I think I'd prefer to have the pigtail and TIM in place to prevent any dealer fingerpointing.

1587429273674.png
 

Phil T

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We have liftoff. I pulled down the corner headliner and disconnected the connector from the terminating block. Jumping 2&3 and 6&7 did the trick. No more service error. Now I get a normal message that trailer tire pressure system not configured. See pictures.
b45872f6e7eabfc4ac26a6006cfa21fb.jpg
8e341335221e69486fc96833979c2aa0.jpg
1c4200dbdc4090ef1eebd15e71f8eb75.jpg
 

Rich

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Good writeup @1FastHemi .

Hopefully we'll get this sorted out and I will have success pairing my current 433Mhz non-Mopar sensors too and can run down my process. I have screw on sensors and for the Tireminder, it's just start pairing and unscrew to zero(0) PSI.
Keep me posted how that works. Not really convienant to do all those other steps to a trailer your liveing in. I've got the tire minders 2
 

1FastHemi

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We have liftoff. I pulled down the corner headliner and disconnected the connector from the terminating block. Jumping 2&3 and 6&7 did the trick. No more service error.
Now I get a normal message that trailer tire pressure system not configured. See pictures.
8e341335221e69486fc96833979c2aa0.jpg

This is the same message I got before I went into the Stereo Settings to config/Set Up the trailer hooked to the bumper.
Remember I had to have my Engine Running and Trailer Pig Tail hooked to Truck to set mine up.

8e341335221e69486fc96833979c2aa0.jpg
 

jsalbre

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Keep me posted how that works. Not really convienant to do all those other steps to a trailer your liveing in. I've got the tire minders 2

You're still going to have to do the same steps no matter what sensors you use. That process is how the truck learns the position of each sensor.
 

switz

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You guys are rock stars for figuring all this out. What would be useful is if someone would put together a start-to-finish instruction sheet with diagrams so us lower-level nerds can figure out what is needed and how to get this done. Again, kudos to all who worked on this and shame to Ram for making promises, videos, and not delivering this to early buyers. Oh, do you still have to program the ECM to get this done? Thanks to all!
 

jsalbre

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I took the currently (relevant) images and womped this draft up to post and verify with the collective TTPMS braintrust.

I tried to keep it simple with no words and just color coding.

We can add part numbers, process, etc. after it's all sorted out. Based on @Jimmy07 and @g00fy great input, it may just be jumping pins 2-3 and 6-7 in that overhead XY444A connector if you don't care/think someone is going to remotely hack your CAN bus. The TIM end D3922A connector is shown but may not be relevant.

This is a great verification, but in the end, I think I'd prefer to have the pigtail and TIM in place to prevent any dealer fingerpointing.

Excellent work! This breaks it all out nicely.

We have liftoff. I pulled down the corner headliner and disconnected the connector from the terminating block. Jumping 2&3 and 6&7 did the trick. No more service error. Now I get a normal message that trailer tire pressure system not configured. See pictures.

Awesome! I'm glad you guys are doing this, because you've saved me from doing it. Which is good, since I currently have half of my 3 week old Airstream disassembled to install solar panels and related equipment!
 

Phil T

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I will be making a step by step on the hardware part once I get the module-gateway and a cable. Although my test proves that the system works with jumpers, I would not want to leave it in that state. The gateway is a firewall that prevents hacking of the car computers through the CAN buss. Thanks to 1FastHemi for providing the programming steps for the sensors. I did not have a clue how it was supposed to be done.
 

switz

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I will be making a step by step on the hardware part once I get the module-gateway and a cable. Although my test proves that the system works with jumpers, I would not want to leave it in that state. The gateway is a firewall that prevents hacking of the car computers through the CAN buss. Thanks to 1FastHemi for providing the programming steps for the sensors. I did not have a clue how it was supposed to be done.
And, if you could please include part numbers that are needed. Thanks again for taking the time t do this for us.
 

Jimmy07

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I will be making a step by step on the hardware part once I get the module-gateway and a cable. Although my test proves that the system works with jumpers, I would not want to leave it in that state. The gateway is a firewall that prevents hacking of the car computers through the CAN buss. Thanks to 1FastHemi for providing the programming steps for the sensors. I did not have a clue how it was supposed to be done.
It’s not gated to prevent hacking, it’s because the TPM is in the most susceptible place accidents occur (rear ended), and it isolates their CAN Bus wires from the rest of the truck in case they get shorted together in an accident, it won’t take out the whole CAN C junction block.
 

Brutal_HO

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We're still waiting on a part number, if available, for the pigtail.

Worst case, I think @Jimmy07 or one of the other guys said they had a source for the connectors? I've been able to ID some of them on various electronics supplier sites like Mouser or Digikey, but sometimes I feel like I'm guessing without the imprinted or OEM published part number.

The issue with some of these DIY are the cost of pins and connectors in low quantities.
 

Phil T

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We're still waiting on a part number, if available, for the pigtail.

Worst case, I think @Jimmy07 or one of the other guys said they had a source for the connectors? I've been able to ID some of them on various electronics supplier sites like Mouser or Digikey, but sometimes I feel like I'm guessing without the imprinted or OEM published part number.

The issue with some of these DIY are the cost of pins and connectors in low quantities.
I have some samples coming from the distributor that handles Yazaki That is who makes the connector. The rep told me they would go out tomorrow. If it's a match for the mating connector that I jumpered, The other one is made by TE connectivity and is readily available.

If I get the connectors and already have the crimping tool, I could make some for the group. I would rather have the factory one if anyone comes up with a part number.
 

Jimmy07

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We're still waiting on a part number, if available, for the pigtail.

Worst case, I think @Jimmy07 or one of the other guys said they had a source for the connectors? I've been able to ID some of them on various electronics supplier sites like Mouser or Digikey, but sometimes I feel like I'm guessing without the imprinted or OEM published part number.

The issue with some of these DIY are the cost of pins and connectors in low quantities.
Working on it. Yazaki suppliers are notorious for minimum order quantities, and one of those connectors (which will be re-used for the pigtail) uses Yazaki terminals.
 

Phil T

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Working on it. Yazaki suppliers are notorious for minimum order quantities, and one of those connectors (which will be re-used for the pigtail) uses Yazaki terminals.

I should have an answer one way or another this week. The connector comes with the terminals, I hope. It doesn't show as just a housing. You could reuse the existing connector and repin it IF you have the pins (sockets in this case).
 

Phil T

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It’s not gated to prevent hacking, it’s because the TPM is in the most susceptible place accidents occur (rear ended), and it isolates their CAN Bus wires from the rest of the truck in case they get shorted together in an accident, it won’t take out the whole CAN C junction block.

??? Think of what you just said. The company will install a piece of hardware in a truck to save the consumer some money in the event that they get rear ended? Not going to happen. Now if you said that the piece of hardware was to improve safety and save them from a lawsuit, that would be a viable reason. Believe me, they would be more than happy to sell you all the new parts if you had yours blown out in an accident.
 

Jimmy07

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I should have an answer one way or another this week. The connector comes with the terminals, I hope. It doesn't show as just a housing. You could reuse the existing connector and repin it IF you have the pins (sockets in this case).
I’ve been building harnesses for a while, and I’ve never seen a Yazaki connector part number come with terminals (or any connector manufacturer). Maybe a supplier would send some terminals with a sample, I don’t know?
The connector that is already there that can be used for the jumper is Yazaki 7289-7406-30. It accepts Yazaki 7196-1367-02 sockets, or Aptiv 1.2 OCS sockets 13543112, neither of which are readily available. SMD has the Yazaki sockets, but they won’t even respond if you request any less than 100.
The connector that plugs into the TIM is TE Connectivity 175967-2. https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=175967-2
The terminals for that connector are 173681-1.
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...-amp-connectors/173681-1/A124409CT-ND/6145978
 

Phil T

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I’ve been building harnesses for a while, and I’ve never seen a Yazaki connector part number come with terminals (or any connector manufacturer). Maybe a supplier would send some terminals with a sample, I don’t know?
The connector that is already there that can be used for the jumper is Yazaki 7289-7406-30. It accepts Yazaki 7196-1367-02 sockets, or Aptiv 1.2 OCS sockets 13543112, neither of which are readily available. SMD has the Yazaki sockets, but they won’t even respond if you request any less than 100.
The connector that plugs into the TIM is TE Connectivity 175967-2. https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=175967-2
The terminals for that connector are 173681-1.
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...-amp-connectors/173681-1/A124409CT-ND/6145978

Yes, those are the ones coming. The people at SMD were very nice and will be sending me the samples tomorrow, hopefully with the sockets.
 

Jimmy07

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??? Think of what you just said. The company will install a piece of hardware in a truck to save the consumer some money in the event that they get rear ended? Not going to happen. Now if you said that the piece of hardware was to improve safety and save them from a lawsuit, that would be a viable reason. Believe me, they would be more than happy to sell you all the new parts if you had yours blown out in an accident.
I won’t speculate as to whether it’s to protect the manufacturer or components on the truck, because it’s moot. It doesn’t change the fact that the gateway is not there to prevent hacking (that would be impossible through that module), but to prevent a can bus short in the case of damage in an accident.
 

Brutal_HO

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You guys are rock stars for figuring all this out. What would be useful is if someone would put together a start-to-finish instruction sheet with diagrams so us lower-level nerds can figure out what is needed and how to get this done. Again, kudos to all who worked on this and shame to Ram for making promises, videos, and not delivering this to early buyers. Oh, do you still have to program the ECM to get this done? Thanks to all!

The goal is to see if MOPAR will sell the jumper cable. Then you just need the TPMS bumper sensor, the TIM module and a way to recode the config options in the truck. However, so far It appears you do have to have a truck that was ordered with the XFQ aux camera. Unless someone that did an after build XFQ install can check for the harness. That probably opens up a whole other can-o-worms on all the wiring needed.

It’s not gated to prevent hacking, it’s because the TPM is in the most susceptible place accidents occur (rear ended), and it isolates their CAN Bus wires from the rest of the truck in case they get shorted together in an accident, it won’t take out the whole CAN C junction block.

Makes perfect sense. I should have thought more about it before posting. Considering the Uconnect WiFi (radio) is isolated from the CAN bus to prevent remote hacks - hence why we have to use the security bypass cables and such to recode things. There can't be that much logic in the TIM gateway if it's just providing circuit protection to the CAN bus. Thankfully, the TIM is relatively cheap and it will hopefully just be a matter of identifying and sourcing the cable.

I’ve been building harnesses for a while, and I’ve never seen a Yazaki connector part number come with terminals (or any connector manufacturer). Maybe a supplier would send some terminals with a sample, I don’t know?
The connector that is already there that can be used for the jumper is Yazaki 7289-7406-30. It accepts Yazaki 7196-1367-02 sockets, or Aptiv 1.2 OCS sockets 13543112, neither of which are readily available. SMD has the Yazaki sockets, but they won’t even respond if you request any less than 100.
The connector that plugs into the TIM is TE Connectivity 175967-2. https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=175967-2
The terminals for that connector are 173681-1.
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...-amp-connectors/173681-1/A124409CT-ND/6145978

Good info. Those min orders are a bitch. You can only pull the sample trick so long before you run out. I hadn't logged into Digikey in so long I had to update my pwd. I get most of my electronics (repair) stuff from Mouser as the shipping is usually a little quicker for me. I tried to run down a few yazaki/TE connectors at Mouser and they were non-stock items with like 500-1000 min orders. One was 7500 and one was 10K (qty) @$1.something ea.
 

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