Towing PSI

[2500ltd]

OP here...

So, after reading all your replies and the question from @Rockcrawlerdude, I decided to not put on my WD/anti-sway bars on my return trip from camping. Short drive, good conditions. Perfect time to try.

TT is 22', 4300# loaded and 600# TW. And RAM is a 2500 Limited. The whole rig was definitely more stable. Significantly less bounce. I guess tire inflation was not the issue then. And when looking at the rig, the back of the truck is no longer up (as it is when unloaded) and looks pretty level. So does the trailer.

Seems like with WD, I was negating the positive impact of the TW leveling the truck. Now, only question left is sway. Did not feel any but again, conditions where great. No wind and little commercial traffic. I'll do a few more tests next weekend:

1) Actually measure how level the truck is after hitching up. Looks good as I say but want to ensure it's not off.

2) Try with my bars on again but applying very little weight distribution. Want to try this for sway and for trips where we may have more cargo.

3) Weigh the whole rig to determine if I could lower tire pressure to take some of the remaining bounce off.

I'll report back but any other thoughts, please pipe in.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

OP here...

So, after reading all your replies and the question from @Rockcrawlerdude, I decided to not put on my WD/anti-sway bars on my return trip from camping. Short drive, good conditions. Perfect time to try.

TT is 22', 4300# loaded and 600# TW. And RAM is a 2500 Limited. The whole rig was definitely more stable. Significantly less bounce. I guess tire inflation was not the issue then. And when looking at the rig, the back of the truck is no longer up (as it is when unloaded) and looks pretty level. So does the trailer.

Seems like with WD, I was negating the positive impact of the TW leveling the truck. Now, only question left is sway. Did not feel any but again, conditions where great. No wind and little commercial traffic. I'll do a few more tests next weekend:

1) Actually measure how level the truck is after hitching up. Looks good as I say but want to ensure it's not off.

2) Try with my bars on again but applying very little weight distribution. Want to try this for sway and for trips where we may have more cargo.

3) Weigh the whole rig to determine if I could lower tire pressure to take some of the remaining bounce off.

I'll report back but any other thoughts, please pipe in.

Glad you figured out the bounce
The right amount of Tongue weight is a good thing

 

[2500ltd]

Glad you figured out the bounce
The right amount of Tongue weight is a good thing

Did extensive testing and weighing this weekend. Seems to confirm WD, no matter how much, simply puts more weight on the front axle that doesn’t need it.

Front and rear RAM axle, trailer axle with WD: 4697 / 4300 / 3704
Front and rear RAM axle, trailer axle without WD but TT on ball: 4608 / 4454 / 3616

Note one propane tank was empty and I didn’t have supplies in the TT. With both, the rear axle of the RAM would likely be pretty even from a weight standpoint.

So my RAM loaded with cargo is a little over 9000. I estimate the TT loaded is 4000 at best.

Two questions for the pros here:

1) FCA says tire PSI should be 65. FS chart posted up thread suggests I could down as low at 50 and be fine based on above weights standpoint. Should I do it? Looking to make the ride less stiff when towing my TT.

2) Given WD invariably moves weight forward, I’ll never be able to tune my hitch for a stable ride and should just tow on the ball? If so, with these numbers, should I even bother with a standalone sway control device?

Thanks in advance for the input.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Did extensive testing and weighing this weekend. Seems to confirm WD, no matter how much, simply puts more weight on the front axle that doesn’t need it.

Front and rear RAM axle, trailer axle with WD: 4697 / 4300 / 3704
Front and rear RAM axle, trailer axle without WD but TT on ball: 4608 / 4454 / 3616

Note one propane tank was empty and I didn’t have supplies in the TT. With both, the rear axle of the RAM would likely be pretty even from a weight standpoint.

So my RAM loaded with cargo is a little over 9000. I estimate the TT loaded is 4000 at best.

Two questions for the pros here:

1) FCA says tire PSI should be 65. FS chart posted up thread suggests I could down as low at 50 and be fine based on above weights standpoint. Should I do it? Looking to make the ride less stiff when towing my TT.

2) Given WD invariably moves weight forward, I’ll never be able to tune my hitch for a stable ride and should just tow on the ball? If so, with these numbers, should I even bother with a standalone sway control device?

Thanks in advance for the input.

if you have sway add an anti sway bar otherwise no need for it, keep your tires at the 60 range it will allow for proper wear of the tread.... im not a fan of WDH unless you’re over the allowed tongue weight without one

I towed this 40’ this weekend as i always do for my customers right on the ball and i have the back of the truck loaded with all kinds of stuff including my 350lbs 5th wheel hitch setup and the truck was pretty much level... this is my 19 2500 CTD CCLB with only 2k payload according to ram i was way over my payload for sure but truck handles it like a champ

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

Did extensive testing and weighing this weekend. Seems to confirm WD, no matter how much, simply puts more weight on the front axle that doesn’t need it.

Front and rear RAM axle, trailer axle with WD: 4697 / 4300 / 3704
Front and rear RAM axle, trailer axle without WD but TT on ball: 4608 / 4454 / 3616

Note one propane tank was empty and I didn’t have supplies in the TT. With both, the rear axle of the RAM would likely be pretty even from a weight standpoint.

So my RAM loaded with cargo is a little over 9000. I estimate the TT loaded is 4000 at best.

Two questions for the pros here:

1) FCA says tire PSI should be 65. FS chart posted up thread suggests I could down as low at 50 and be fine based on above weights standpoint. Should I do it? Looking to make the ride less stiff when towing my TT.

2) Given WD invariably moves weight forward, I’ll never be able to tune my hitch for a stable ride and should just tow on the ball? If so, with these numbers, should I even bother with a standalone sway control device?

Thanks in advance for the input.

I don’t see the need for a WDH unless you’re getting a ton of squat (much more tongue weight than you have) you have a very light trailer that could be pulled with a Tacoma

I haven’t experienced trailer sway that I worried about so I’ve never needed sway control. If you don’t have sway control and you start getting crazy trailer sway, squeeze the trailer brakes and pull it tight To reel it in. If you have recurring problems with trailer sway maybe start shopping for sway control.

For now, I don’t see the need to buy solutions for problems you don’t have yet.

 

[MEGA HO]

That's a light weight for sure, my (now sold) trailer was in the 4000# range as well and I never feel the need for any additional gadgets to tow it, hell, could have loaded it into my box and haul it if it fit, lol.
A guy who bought it, came to pick it up with a new Jeep truck and it didn't look too bad when he took off.

 

[towingnp]

if you have sway add an anti sway bar otherwise no need for it, keep your tires at the 60 range it will allow for proper wear of the tread.... im not a fan of WDH unless you’re over the allowed tongue weight without one

I towed this 40’ this weekend as i always do for my customers right on the ball and i have the back of the truck loaded with all kinds of stuff including my 350lbs 5th wheel hitch setup and the truck was pretty much level... this is my 19 2500 CTD CCLB with only 2k payload according to ram i was way over my payload for sure but truck handles it like a champ

Thanks. I might try 60 then. Down 5 all around. Just trying to make the ride a little less harsh.

 

[towingnp]

For now, I don’t see the need to buy solutions for problems you don’t have yet.

lol

Well said.

Incoming TT will be 1100# TW and 7000# but yeah, looks like my current one is nothing for a 2500!

Thanks for the advice.

 

[RV_Goose]

On my 2013 Ram 2500 Cummins the sticker said 80 PSI front. Rear tire at 65 PSI unloaded and 80 PSI when loaded

 

[towingnp]

On my 2013 Ram 2500 Cummins the sticker said 80 PSI front. Rear tire at 65 PSI unloaded and 80 PSI when loaded

Mine is a 2021 2500 Cummins with FS Transforce tires. Sticker says 65 all around.

 

[Toyotaguy]

My 21 has 65 all around in the sticker


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

My 19 2500 CTD says 60 all 4 corners

 

[RV_Goose]

Mine is a 2021 2500 Cummins with FS Transforce tires. Sticker says 65 all around.

Wow.

 

[Bozo]

Hmmm, my 2017 2500 sticker said 60 front/80 rear.

 

[Bozo]

Still playing around with the new one. 90 all around when I picked it up. Went to air down the rears the other day but the extension on the inside dual wouldn’t let me do it via tire pressure gauge and my fat fingers and large hands couldn’t get to it to swap out to a real extender. I will get that done next day or two.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Still playing around with the new one. 90 all around when I picked it up. Went to air down the rears the other day but the extension on the inside dual wouldn’t let me do it via tire pressure gauge and my fat fingers and large hands couldn’t get to it to swap out to a real extender. I will get that done next day or two.

Fill through caps are a must have

 

[Bozo]

Fill through caps are a must have

Not disagreeing that point just that they are not letting me de air, and I was crunched for time.

 

[Chrisminx]

On my 2013 Ram 2500 Cummins the sticker said 80 PSI front. Rear tire at 65 PSI unloaded and 80 PSI when loaded

Same for my 2020 3500 DRW.

 

[RV_Goose]

Same for my 2020 3500 DRW.

Interesting, my 2020 RAM 3500 DRW is 65 loaded according to my decal. My 2013 RAM 2500 had the variances.

 

[towingnp]

Interesting, my 2020 RAM 3500 DRW is 65 loaded according to my decal. My 2013 RAM 2500 had the variances.

RAM moved to a new suspension starting in 19, didn’t they? I assume that explains the difference in front/rear PSI.