Need help on suspension fix

[OLEJOE]

@OLEJOE . Are you saying that your exhaust was rubbing hard parts which was causing vibrations and rattles and you were able to loosen it and move it to hang freely as it should?

No. The exhaust pipes were loaded with the weight of the engine, transmission and transfer case causing the assembly from sitting down on the rear mount. The exhaust isolators were stretched to the max. When a bump or crack in the road was hit, the entire assembly would vibrate with nothing to stop it like a shock does for the suspension. It was very easy before to raise the transmission and transfer case with just my hand at the front driveshaft. It had to be the exhaust holding it up as nothing else is hooked to it.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

That’s so weird glad you figured it out

 

[OLEJOE]

Not sure if it’s figured out yet but it shows promise. This issue has been the only complaint I’ve had with the truck and dealer saying “That’s how they are “.

 

[ClawSS]

Well, it is not my issue. After looking at the hanger and other areas already pretty much touched during my Borla install, this is not the culprit. I loosened the manifold to y-pipe bolts anyway, but nothing there to cause issue. So I attempted a ratchet strap to the tailshaft of the t-case and cinched that down real good and took a drive. This placebo'd its way into me thinking it helps, but I can't drive around too much that way ( I could, but not sure I want to). I don't think my issue is a "light weight trans/t-case".

I guess as we all know, I just need to get after those control arm bolts and see if I can relieve some unseen tension there. Dammit.

 

[OLEJOE]

Well I haven’t been able to drive mine any more yet to see for sure if it helped mine but may be more of the placebo effect or hoping. Idk .

Edit:
Well after driving mine a little more it seems to have taken some of it out but it’s still shaking. Since the ones that have been complained about on here have all had the OR pkg I’m guessing it’s either the bushings, some suspension geometry issue or frame flex. If it’s the frame flexing then all long bed CC’s should be doing it. I’m going to take mine to a tire shop and have the tires checked for out of round, rebalanced and rotated again to make sure they are not any part of the problem. I don’t think it is because the tires are all wearing evenly. I’ve been rotating them every 5k miles and look at them daily but I guess it could be an out of round issue combined with the low tire pressure.

 

[Tater86]

So my ride along with the off road shop produced nothing other than that it was normal. I did a little google research and found this thread over on the ramforumz page and the guy on the page seemed to solve his issue but it was a 3500 with leaf springs. He corrected it by swapping to a one piece drive shaft and correcting his springs.

Did anyone have their driveshaft rebalanced by chance?

Vibrations FINALLY Solved!!

A looong story with much frustration along the way, and lots of 'happy talk' from Chrysler Care... Bought truck new in May of 2016, DRW, 68rfe, 6.7, 4x4, LB crew cab... Vibrations coming from rear end. Dealer first claimed that vibrations are 'normal' on a DRW... To summarize a very long saga...

www.ramforumz.com

 

[OLEJOE]

I haven’t and I think @ClawSS ’s truck has a one piece driveshaft. As far as springs, shocks and tires, he’s changed with no results. The one piece driveshaft sounds like it might work for mine though. What do you think the chances are of getting that changed under warranty ?

 

[Tater86]

Slim to none. I read an article that said the two piece drive shaft provides better performance. I’m going to try to get them to rebalance mine to see if that helps.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

Driveshaft vibrations follow a sine wave pattern. Drive in reverse and see if you get a cosine wave pattern.

 

[OLEJOE]

All BS aside, I’ve thought about driving it in reverse to see if it has the same symptoms but it would be kinda hard to get it fast enough to see.
I’ve thought that the rubber around the swing bearing was awfully soft. Anyone have any idea how much having a driveshaft made cost ?

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

All BS aside, I’ve thought about driving it in reverse to see if it has the same symptoms but it would be kinda hard to get it fast enough to see.
I’ve thought that the rubber around the swing bearing was awfully soft. Anyone have any idea how much having a driveshaft made cost ?

I’ve had many made. They get expensive quick. It would be cheaper to buy a go pro and aim it at your driveshaft and go for a drive.

 

[OLEJOE]

I think most of my jitteriness vibration is in the swing or center bearing. It’s not loose or worn but the driveshaft can be moved around with the give in the rubber that supports the bearing. It is also supported by a small cross member that also has the front of the fuel tank attached to it. IDK
It’s also exactly even with the rear cab mounts. It is super aggravating.

 

[ClawSS]

Yeah...one LARGE Aluminum Shaft here.

 

[ClawSS]

I entertain the rear control arm loosening/bounce/tightening idea, but just not in a position to do so yet.
Also, I wonder about the aftermarket rear control arms, but get confused on their required bolt torque based on the different joints (by manufacturer). I am told the stock ones do store energy, yet I know the same feelings are present under the stock springs on my truck, so unless they were installed and tightened incorrectly (under droop or compression instead of neutral/static weight), I just overthink it as being another red herring.

If we discuss here the finer points of WHY the stock arms store energy as opposed to the style of joint that doesn't (heim). Any guidance here (@Rockcrawlerdude ?). Anyway.... Why is this considered a necessary bushed joint instead of just a pivot and an allowance of the shock to take the hit? Is there a subsequent ride quality interaction here when they work correctly within proper parameters, but go to the dark side when incorrectly applied?

NO, I don't want to throw $ at this, but trying to learn why things are set up this way if it causes issues based on my attempts at suspension nirvana. It does seem most aftermarket arms are just for big lifts (although handle 0" if adjustable.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

I entertain the rear control arm loosening/bounce/tightening idea, but just not in a position to do so yet.
Also, I wonder about the aftermarket rear control arms, but get confused on their required bolt torque based on the different joints (by manufacturer). I am told the stock ones do store energy, yet I know the same feelings are present under the stock springs on my truck, so unless they were installed and tightened incorrectly (under droop or compression instead of neutral/static weight), I just overthink it as being another red herring.

If we discuss here the finer points of WHY the stock arms store energy as opposed to the style of joint that doesn't (heim). Any guidance here (@Rockcrawlerdude ?). Anyway.... Why is this considered a necessary bushed joint instead of just a pivot and an allowance of the shock to take the hit? Is there a subsequent ride quality interaction here when they work correctly within proper parameters, but go to the dark side when incorrectly applied?

NO, I don't want to throw $ at this, but trying to learn why things are set up this way if it causes issues based on my attempts at suspension nirvana. It does seem most aftermarket arms are just for big lifts (although handle 0" if adjustable.

The stock bushings store energy because they are a vulcanized bushing which means the bushing is “glued” in place. The bolt is not a pivot point but a clamp on the center steel sleeve bushing. So in order to move the arm, you have to flex the bushing. So if you’ve installed a lift spring without loosening all the rear components, you likely have some bushings preloaded

They use these bushings because they’re tough and absorb vibrations with long service life. Heims etc have a shorter life, require maintenance, and transmit more vibrations.

 

[Tater86]

Could it have anything to do with the driveline angles being set incorrectly or slightly out of tolerance? I found this article on motor trend, but I'm not sure how to check for the correct angles.

"Vehicles that do not have the proper angles set in the driveline components will experience pulsations that will cause vibration in seats, mirrors, gearshift levers, and other miscellaneous parts."

 

[OLEJOE]

The stock bushings store energy because they are a vulcanized bushing which means the bushing is “glued” in place. The bolt is not a pivot point but a clamp on the center steel sleeve bushing. So in order to move the arm, you have to flex the bushing. So if you’ve installed a lift spring without loosening all the rear components, you likely have some bushings preloaded

They use these bushings because they’re tough and absorb vibrations with long service life. Heims etc have a shorter life, require maintenance, and transmit more vibrations.

My truck is completely stock with the OR pkg. but who knows how it was manufactured or handled after that. I’m sick about this last acquisition. The 2018 I traded for this truck was a great truck. I messed up getting this POS but I guess I’ll just have to live with it.

 

[ClawSS]

I've had vehicles with f'd up drivelines. That manifests (in my experience) as more of a constant vibe (brrrrrrrr) at a certain harmonics like you would recognize if a tire was out of balance with the vibration being cyclical and relatively constant due to the rotation of the offending item.

Not speaking for @OLEJOE , but mine is very road surface dependent. The truck can ride smooth...if there is no bump. It just likes to "enhance" every bump and augment with a few of its own...less in intensity than the initial, but higher in count. Every bump...even one's you can't see from 7' in the air. Put all of that together and you get a constant yet inconsistent set of belly vibrators varying in intensity based on road surface and vehicle speed (due to hitting bumps quicker instead of slow speed giving the truck time to settle and smooth out until another interruption).

 

[OLEJOE]

Mine is exactly the same.

 

[OLEJOE]

Well I’ve reread every post and nothing jumps out at me that I might have missed the first time. It’s been raining here every couple of days and been raining for the last 3 so I haven’t been able to get under mine to continue the search for the culprit. I’ve noticed mine raises up in the rear when going from reverse or neutral to drive or forward. I don’t know if this could be anything or not. I drove class 8’s with air ride and they would do it also. Anyhow just wanted to bump the thread a see if maybe someone had come up with something. Wife’s nephew works for one of the companies that makes lift kits for different models of trucks but they don’t sell to the consumer. Might try to get ahold of one of their engineers and see if I can get them to do a ride along and see what they think. Hope everyone is well.