That’s what I’m trying to find out by collecting some actual data to mill over. Right now I have 12 trucks on the spreadsheet. I am 100% certain there are so many more, but it’s hard to “reach” people with that particular failure and drum up interest / motivate people to answer some questions.Any idea how common this lifter failure really is? It's hard to tell if it just seems more common because of social media. I have a 22 with almost 30k miles and engine idle sounds the same as when I purchased it new. Truck has been good so far (knock on wood) aside from my dpf plugging up but I solved that issue for good.
Yea it would make a big difference the life of the engine would decrease significantly…. Friction modifiers are for clutches and large clearance areas not inside of an engineDo you guys think a friction modifier additive would make any difference?
LolYea it would make a big difference the life of the engine would decrease significantly…. Friction modifiers are for clutches and large clearance areas not inside of an engine
Me personally I would just stick with a good synthetic oil. Change it after one year or 5 to 8000 miles on my 97 I used to go 8000 miles but I would change the filter and add a quart at 4000 miles.Lol
I was thinking about some of Hot Shots oil additive products.
Yep that was him.I know exactly the guy you’re talking about. Was it a 6.0 lifter he was comparing it too? The holes are smaller, whether that is good or bad. I got into a pretty good discussion online with the guy. Didnt agree with some of his accusations. I claimed the the bearing in the lifter was burnt. Im pretty sure it has a DLC coating thats why it was black, not to mention the metal that housed the bearing was perfect. I can one metal touching another be burnt and not burn the other. He tried to really make it a lifter issue. Not saying they are perfect, just dont think they are the culprit.
He also didn’t understand what the little notches were on the side of the lifter body and basically asserted that they were a useless piece. They’re actually the keys that are used to keep the lifter body from rotating axially in their bores. He made some valid points, like the size of the oil passage, but there were also some “reaching” and inaccuracies. His claim that the bushing was a cheap option isn’t necessarily correct. A lot of the racing engines use bushings instead of roller bearings in the lifter in order to reduce complexity and make the lifter more durable. As long as there is oil in there, the bushing shouldn’t be a problem. The issue with the roller locking up from side loading is an issue, as is the notches allowing the lifter bodies to rotate, causing the roller to meet the cam lobes at odd angles.I know exactly the guy you’re talking about. Was it a 6.0 lifter he was comparing it too? The holes are smaller, whether that is good or bad. I got into a pretty good discussion online with the guy. Didnt agree with some of his accusations. I claimed the the bearing in the lifter was burnt. Im pretty sure it has a DLC coating thats why it was black, not to mention the metal that housed the bearing was perfect. I can one metal touching another be burnt and not burn the other. He tried to really make it a lifter issue. Not saying they are perfect, just dont think they are the culprit.
Please keep us posted.Honestly I would rather bushings. Less things to go wrong. Not to mention the trunions have been bushings since like 89. I really think this situation is like the 68. It’s getting exaggerated. I hate the tick but someone will figure it out. I’m just waiting on my rockers. Hopefully that solves the tick. Have heavy duty pushrods in already. There was definitely some material missing from the pushrod. IMO I think the problems are starting with the push rods wearing down to the point were the lifter can’t compensate.