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My truck is a 3500 SRW with the auto-level system. I went with a Carlie 2.5 level kit and a 2” block in the rear. I didn’t want the nose high like I see with most of these trucks that do the level kit on an auto-level system. In my opinion it looks odd. The rear measures .5 of an inch higher in the rear, measured from the center of the rim to the top of the wheel arch. I’m running 37/12.5 R18 tires with a +18 offset Fuel whee. There was a slight rub on the plastic fender liner which I fixed by drilling a hole in the bottom of the liner and using a zip tie to pull it back. Can’t see the zip tie and you don’t have to cut up your truck. Now there is no rubbing at all even when going off road. When I had 35” tires on this truck they cleared no problem (no zip ties). If you run the 35x12.5 tires on stock wheels they will rub on your radius arms and sway bar. They could clear if you went with a narrower 35.
My truck is a 3500 SRW with the auto-level system. I went with a Carlie 2.5 level kit and a 2” block in the rear. I didn’t want the nose high like I see with most of these trucks that do the level kit on an auto-level system. In my opinion it looks odd. The rear measures .5 of an inch higher in the rear, measured from the center of the rim to the top of the wheel arch. I’m running 37/12.5 R18 tires with a +18 offset Fuel wheel. There was a slight rub on the plastic fender liner which I fixed by drilling a hole in the bottom of the liner and using a zip tie to pull it back. Can’t see the zip tie and you don’t have to cut up your truck. Now there is no rubbing at all even when going off road. When I had 35” tires on this truck they cleared no problem (no zip ties). If you run the 35x12.5 tires on stock wheels they will rub on your radius arms and sway bar. They could clear if you went with a narrower 35.
I presume that 0.5” higher in the rear is normal ride heights and you’re tail low in alternate ride height?