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Dash camera

spg993tt

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we'll give it a whirl. would you know if its just that one bolt as circled in blue in my photo on previous post?
i cant see any other connection points.
Brutal, you mentioned jimmy posting about moving it,...can you or jimmy post a link to those posts/thread.

That’s the amplifier that is in the way. Remove it if you have to, and rearrange the two pass thru connectors.
 

Brutal_HO

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we'll give it a whirl. would you know if its just that one bolt as circled in blue in my photo on previous post?
i cant see any other connection points.
Brutal, you mentioned jimmy posting about moving it,...can you or jimmy post a link to those posts/thread.

He just did. ;-)

I don't think there's a "how-to."
 

spg993tt

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thanks you guys for all your help. what a great benefit you guys provide to us unbeknownst persons.
 

spg993tt

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ok, got the white plug out. wasnt 'hard' but, personally, i dont like unplugging big connectors, moving stuff pushing set cables out of the way, just increases the chance of some connection coming bad. anyway, there were two fat connectors just to the side of thea mplifier. i was able to pop them out, give me a clear line of sight to the white plug.they buried it above and bhind the top of the two plugs, and worse, they taped it with that grippy tape wrapped twice, to the umbillical right there, so no pushing, prodding or grabbing was moving that plug. had a small exacto two fingered it and sawed that tape away, hate digging deep into a spot where you dont have good viz or access with an exacto but got it look and just wiggled it lower. once loose it just hung there nicely very accessible, lots of things to tape it to there, in an accessible spot. D grades for RAM on that detaill...but its done.
 

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Brutal_HO

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ok, got the white plug out. wasnt 'hard' but, personally, i dont like unplugging big connectors, moving stuff pushing set cables out of the way, just increases the chance of some connection coming bad. anyway, there were two fat connectors just to the side of thea mplifier. i was able to pop them out, give me a clear line of sight to the white plug.they buried it above and bhind the top of the two plugs, and worse, they taped it with that grippy tape wrapped twice, to the umbillical right there, so no pushing, prodding or grabbing was moving that plug. had a small exacto two fingered it and sawed that tape away, hate digging deep into a spot where you dont have good viz or access with an exacto but got it look and just wiggled it lower. once loose it just hung there nicely very accessible, lots of things to tape it to there, in an accessible spot. D grades for RAM on that detaill...but its done.

I used to use a stitch ripper for stuff like that but lost the damn thing.

1618353938350.png
 

rauan

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Anyone had experience with installing a dash cam in Houston? I am not sure if I want to do it myself. I am sure I will break something if I start playing with it. I was hoping find a decent shop to install it properly.
 

love2build

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Same here in Austin. These aux switches are throwing me for a loop. Maybe I’ll get the dealer to wire up one circuit for me and then I’m good to go. My brain hurts from reading this thread
 

rauan

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Same here in Austin. These aux switches are throwing me for a loop. Maybe I’ll get the dealer to wire up one circuit for me and then I’m good to go. My brain hurts from reading this thread

Please let me know if you find anything in Austin. I do occasional drives through Austin and would consider wiring it there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

renagade69

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Has anyone used the Blendmount bracket for the install?
Edit- They don't work for the higher trim trucks after further research.
 
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Porkchopexpress

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I have the Nextbase and had them install it where the windshield and roof lining meet. I just had them use the aux that has the movable always on vs off when no power depending on where you have the fuse in the fusebox. I do suggest you get the rear camera on it as well. I installed that myself.​


I have great footage of my wreck with the guy admitting he was at fault (which he tried to crawfish on later). I submitted the footage with my claim and I didn't have to worry about anything. I am a huge fan of these now.

Would suggest a dashcam be on your list of items for your truck to buy.
 

relbus

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I have the Nextbase and had them install it where the windshield and roof lining meet. I just had them use the aux that has the movable always on vs off when no power depending on where you have the fuse in the fusebox. I do suggest you get the rear camera on it as well. I installed that myself.​


I have great footage of my wreck with the guy admitting he was at fault (which he tried to crawfish on later). I submitted the footage with my claim and I didn't have to worry about anything. I am a huge fan of these now.

Would suggest a dashcam be on your list of items for your truck to buy.

Same here. One accident where the other driver is pointing the finger at you makes the cam worth it. I had a guy cross the center line in arches national park with an RV while I was trailing my TJ and our mirrors collided destroying both and his window. I was over as far as I could go without going into the wall. He was on the outside going up, and me coming down on the inside. He was from Europe...and came to America for the summer with his family to tour the USA. I believe A. they drive much smaller vehicles over there...and B. He was out of his element on this narrow shelf road.

One look at my dash cam footage by the park ranger/police and a ticket was issued and then cruise america reimbursed me for all damage.
 

love2build

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Recently had a delivery driver bump my truck one night while it was parked at home and he didn’t leave any note (shocking right?). Good thing I run my cam off a battery so I get about 14 hours parking coverage. Small tip, if you are using a CP filter best to not run one at night as it will not give you good nighttime coverage. Otherwise I am running a Blackvue DR900x plus system.
 

NVYCHF

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HELP!! Did not want to start a new thread...

Good afternoon All!!! I hope this finds you safe and well. Disclaimer...I am sure this is easier than I am making it out to be in my head. I want to hard wire my dash cam (Blackvue 900X 2ch) to my aux switches (number 6). I have managed to stress myself over this. My hurdles; screwing up the wiring in my new HD, different gauge wires (ram wire kit 12awg, dash cam 24awg), different wire material (ram copper, dash cam aluminum), and fuses - replacing the 5amp fuse for the dash cam in the fuse location for switch 6.

Can I connect different gauge wires? 12awg to 24awg specifically.
Can I connect different wire materials? Copper and Aluminum - have seen online that special care needs to be taken when connecting these together.
Can I put the 5amp fuse that came with my dash cam in the fuse block for switch number 6? If I leave the original fuse in place, what would it do, or cause with regard to the dash cam function? Blown fuses, over heated wires, et cetera.

I do not know, therefore I would rather ask. I want this powered to be turned on and off at my discretion, I do not want to tap the mirror power for example.

Thank you.

Be safe,
Randy
 

Brutal_HO

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HELP!! Did not want to start a new thread...

Good afternoon All!!! I hope this finds you safe and well. Disclaimer...I am sure this is easier than I am making it out to be in my head. I want to hard wire my dash cam (Blackvue 900X 2ch) to my aux switches (number 6). I have managed to stress myself over this. My hurdles; screwing up the wiring in my new HD, different gauge wires (ram wire kit 12awg, dash cam 24awg), different wire material (ram copper, dash cam aluminum), and fuses - replacing the 5amp fuse for the dash cam in the fuse location for switch 6.

Can I connect different gauge wires? 12awg to 24awg specifically.
Can I connect different wire materials? Copper and Aluminum - have seen online that special care needs to be taken when connecting these together.
Can I put the 5amp fuse that came with my dash cam in the fuse block for switch number 6? If I leave the original fuse in place, what would it do, or cause with regard to the dash cam function? Blown fuses, over heated wires, et cetera.

I do not know, therefore I would rather ask. I want this powered to be turned on and off at my discretion, I do not want to tap the mirror power for example.

Thank you.

Be safe,
Randy

Can I connect different gauge wires? 12awg to 24awg specifically.
Yes. I recommend using a but-splice crimp. You can strip the 24AWG wire long and fold it, or wrap it around the 12awg wire if the butt splice allows (has no stop in the middle).

Can I connect different wire materials? Copper and Aluminum - have seen online that special care needs to be taken when connecting these together.
Something that small, kept in the dry cab and well sealed isn't going to be a problem. low voltage wiring is less of an issue than high voltage (AC wiring).
My preference is to always use a gas-tight butt-splice with a proper ratchet crimp tool and sealed with marine shrink tubing (has glue inside).

Can I put the 5amp fuse that came with my dash cam in the fuse block for switch number 6? If I leave the original fuse in place, what would it do, or cause with regard to the dash cam function? Blown fuses, over heated wires, et cetera.
Do not replace the AUX fuse with the dashcam fuse (if even the same type). AUX1-AUX6 can take any of the fuses in the PDC (you can move them around) as long as you don't exceed the total allowed load on the PDC. Put in the lowest fuse that's in there (10A?) and leave your camera inline 5A fuse on the camera power wiring.

If your dashcam has park-mode, you'll want to wire that up to constant 12V.
 

markdawn2

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I used my IGN+ and BAT+ from the jumper for the dash cam, but I'm going to add in a fuse block so I can also still bring IGN+ and BAT+ to the blunt cut wires in the back.

I used the pas-thru circuit to bring AUX6 back into the cab for my 2-LO box.

I found this one with 6 separate circuits that can be slaved together as needed. It actually measures on 5Hx2W.


View attachment 11281
Any helpful hintss on de-pinning the jumper at 1 and 4? I have unlatched the white locking piece..just can't get the darn wire to disconnect.
 
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markdawn2

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Any helpful hintss on de-pinning the jumper at 1 and 4? I have unlatched the white locking piece..just can't get the darn wire to disconnect.
Disregard previous post. I was able to de-pin successfully. One step closer to the finish line..
 

markdawn2

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@Brutal your knowledge and posts here have been very helpful so thank you! I started off knowing NOTHING about any of this to "thinking I understand" lol so I view that as progress. Here is my newest question: once I connect the jumper under the dash, de-pin and use 1 and 4 for Bat+ and IGN +, is it still necessary to utilize the pass-through if I am not connecting to an Aux switch? I have no current need for power to the rear of the truck so I figured this would be my best option. Please correct me if I am wrong.
 

Brutal_HO

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@Brutal your knowledge and posts here have been very helpful so thank you! I started off knowing NOTHING about any of this to "thinking I understand" lol so I view that as progress. Here is my newest question: once I connect the jumper under the dash, de-pin and use 1 and 4 for Bat+ and IGN +, is it still necessary to utilize the pass-through if I am not connecting to an Aux switch? I have no current need for power to the rear of the truck so I figured this would be my best option. Please correct me if I am wrong.

You don't need the pass-thru if you're not going to use it for an AUX switch.

It's a dead wire unless you put power to it under the hood at the grey AUX jumper.
 

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