6.7 Engine Air Filter Confusion

[AH64ID]

2022 Ram 2500 Diesel

Anyone have issues with the new AF53034051AB? I installed the AB filter from Geno's garage and my regens have changed from 200 miles (14 miles commute with 15F cold starts) to 100-120 miles (50 miles commute with 45F cold starts) for 6 weeks, basically since i've installed the filter. I thought it was the cold weather cold starts causing issue and having been running checks with the CTS3 on all my sensors and injectors. I've been watching the dpf % on the CTS3 for 2 days now and thought the data was wrong since I was reading 50% soot levels with 0% on the truck screen. This morning CTS3 dpf % jumped from 56% start to 80% within 10 miles and the dpf truck screen went from 0 to 30%. Once I got to operating temps I noticed I was passive regening when I lugged the engine @ 75 miles ( egt2 +660 F) but it looked like it was a fine line of hitting the dpf filling on or off. It correlated with boost pressure +4 psig. I pulled off the highway and made a few stops on the way to work and the dpf % stop climbing. Let the truck idle for 30 mins at my work parking lot and the dpf % didn't change 1% during idle while it would climb 1% every 30 secs while in boost. Sent an email to Geno but might need to start testing a few filters. Going to take my short commute home with more city driving and stay out of boost to further test my hypothesis.

The CTS3 can show 99% with 0% on the dash because time is also a factor in there. When the CTS3 DPF % is time based you should see it increase 1% every ~14 minutes of runtime.

You cannot lug these engines, the programming won’t allow for it.

Your CTS readings sound like driving style, not air filter issues. The airflow at a few psi boost is minimal, if you want to test the air filter put a WOT load on it and see if you get an air filter change message.

Why did you idle for 30 minutes? That doesn’t help the DPF loading.

 

[mbarber84]

Another thing to consider is face-plugging. Low exhaust flow and low exhaust temperatures can start to build soot on the “face” or inlet side of the DOC / DPF. Extended or excessive idle time is a root cause for this, and it can create dramatic changes in how the system performs. It’s even more problematic if the truck already has other issues upstream like a dirty air filter, or leaky injectors etc.

 

[Bullwinkle_The_Black_Ram]

Was the filter you installed orange foam with a yellow’ish oiled media, or was it black foam with a white dry media?View attachment 56038

Mopar AB orange and yellow filter.

 

[mbarber84]

Mopar AB orange and yellow filter.

Ok just wanted to confirm that because there were reports of the white filters being shipped in bags marked with the appropriate part numbers. There was also a Ram TSB put out at one point referring to OEM filters that had been “excessively oiled” but these were causing issues with the air flow sensors up front. That could also have an impact on regeneration.

 

[R. Yates]

My dealer insists that there is a new version of the AA filter, one without glue strips I guess. I'm getting my truck back today after waiting since 2/23 for a new DPF. They supposedly replaced the air filter too so we'll see if the engine light stays off. All my air filter problems started immediately after they replaced the Cp4 fuel pump. IDK, I don't trust them to do anything right. I waited 5 weeks only to find out that they ordered the converter/DPF. Then week after week went by with them needing a gasket, and then a clamp, just the worst service on the planet.

 

[mbarber84]

My dealer insists that there is a new version of the AA filter, one without glue strips I guess. I'm getting my truck back today after waiting since 2/23 for a new DPF. They supposedly replaced the air filter too so we'll see if the engine light stays off. All my air filter problems started immediately after they replaced the Cp4 fuel pump. IDK, I don't trust them to do anything right. I waited 5 weeks only to find out that they ordered the converter/DPF. Then week after week went by with them needing a gasket, and then a clamp, just the worst service on the planet.

My dealer insisted that the AA filter was the right one also. It took a two page email to the service manager with pictures to prove I was right. They did finally refund me but never admitted they were wrong. They only know what their computer tells them, and unfortunately the info in their parts system is wrong. I would highly recommend checking your air box while you’re there at the dealership picking it up. If there isn’t a an orange 53034051AB in the air box, I would recommend taking them over to a brand new 2023 Cummins (if they have one on the lot) and have them pop the air box open….there will be a 53034051AB inside that air box, I’ll guarantee it.

 

[R. Yates]

Well they delivered the truck to me (about 15-20 minutes across town), and when I started the truck the DPF gauge it was already about 30%. I took it out for a drive and within 5-10 minutes the engine light came on and it started a regen shortly after. About 30-40 minutes and the regen ended and the gauge was back to zero. It was as high as 50% after my 1st stop. It's an AA air filter for sure and the engine light is still on. Basically I'm right back where I started after they replaced the fuel pump and they told me I must have an aftermarket air filter causing the engine light. It wasn't, it was the AB filter.

 

[mbarber84]

Well they delivered the truck to me (about 15-20 minutes across town), and when I started the truck the DPF gauge it was already about 30%. I took it out for a drive and within 5-10 minutes the engine light came on and it started a regen shortly after. About 30-40 minutes and the regen ended and the gauge was back to zero. It was as high as 50% after my 1st stop. It's an AA air filter for sure and the engine light is still on. Basically I'm right back where I started after they replaced the fuel pump and they told me I must have an aftermarket air filter causing the engine light. It wasn't, it was the AB filter.

What diagnostic trouble codes are setting in the ecm ? If your malfunction indicator light (aka check engine light) is “on”, there are codes registering in the system.

 

[R. Yates]

I've got to figure out how to use the code reader that I bought while the truck was in the shop. I'll let you know what it says.

 

[Bullwinkle_The_Black_Ram]

I know this is a filter thread but fyi. I had excessive regen every 100miles I thought after swapping to an AB filter. Turned out the leak I found in my intercooler and the extended route to work was hurting me bc I was build soot from running the truck rich in boost. The repair shot screwed a screw into the bottom of the intercooler and then backed it out and put the plastic clip afterwards. Boost test couldn't hold 1 psig with my compressor free flowing 30 psig. I had no codes and the truck could hit 25 psig boost regularly. The amount of air escaping was crazy and still running with no codes. Trucking back into the repair shop.

Might be worth checking leaks if codes are throwing and causes rich AFR. The boost kit was $60 on Amazon. I know intercooler tubes start premature wearing between intake tube and exhaust outlet where a hose runs across between. Mine also shown wear markets 15k miles.

 

[R. Yates]

What diagnostic trouble codes are setting in the ecm ? If your malfunction indicator light (aka check engine light) is “on”, there are codes registering in the system.

Do these connectors make sense to you? I want to make sure that I connect my OBDlink to the right one. I would think it is connected to the one that is fixed to a plastic housing, but there is a male connector also dangling from a wiring harness, also a female. Those two look like they should be joined.

 

[Bullwinkle_The_Black_Ram]

Do these connectors make sense to you? I want to make sure that I connect my OBDlink to the right one. I would think it is connected to the one that is fixed to a plastic housing, but there is a male connector also dangling from a wiring harness, also a female. Those two look like they should be joined.

Looks like you have a male/male adapter. Shouldn't need the adapter , just plug the cable directly into the housing obd2 port.

 

[R. Yates]

Looks like you have a male/male adapter. Shouldn't need the adapter , just plug the cable directly into the housing obd2 port.

 

[R. Yates]

So plug the loose female into the one in the housing and then the OBDlink into the loose male?

 

[Brutal_HO]

Do these connectors make sense to you? I want to make sure that I connect my OBDlink to the right one. I would think it is connected to the one that is fixed to a plastic housing, but there is a male connector also dangling from a wiring harness, also a female. Those two look like they should be joined.

What is that cable connected to?

Are you the 2nd owner?

 

[R. Yates]

What is that cable connected to?

Are you the 2nd owner?

They go up under the dash somewhere. It's hard to see. I am the 2nd owner but I doubt the previous owner did anything to it like that. He only put 8k miles on it. He did have big fancy wheels on it and tinted it and had the front lifted.

 

[R. Yates]

What diagnostic trouble codes are setting in the ecm ? If your malfunction indicator light (aka check engine light) is “on”, there are codes registering in the system.

The fault codes are P0299. There are two of them. Something about an "underboost condition." I couldn't clear them for some reason. DPF is filling up again. 30% after 20 to 30 miles.

 

[jsalbre]

They go up under the dash somewhere. It's hard to see. I am the 2nd owner but I doubt the previous owner did anything to it like that. He only put 8k miles on it. He did have big fancy wheels on it and tinted it and had the front lifted.

Those extra connectors hanging down belong to some aftermarket accessory. Could be a security gateway bypass, or a number of other things. I'd figure out where the other ends go.

 

[R. Yates]

Thanks for the reply. I figured it out with the OBDlink people. It is the connector with 7 pins which happens to be dangling from a wiring harness. Not sure exactly what the deal is with that but I got it connected and found a P0299 fault. I can't believe it but it's going back to the dealer today. After 8 plus weeks, they fixed a symptom but not the problem.

 

[Brutal_HO]

Thanks for the reply. I figured it out with the OBDlink people. It is the connector with 7 pins which happens to be dangling from a wiring harness. Not sure exactly what the deal is with that but I got it connected and found a P0299 fault. I can't believe it but it's going back to the dealer today. After 8 plus weeks, they fixed a symptom but not the problem.

Dealer sold you that truck with the OBD cable thingy in it?

Are you sure it wasn't tuned?