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`22 Dually Missing Splash Guards

sstoner911

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I sprayed my "void" today along wit the upper part that is not covered even with that center piece. The dealer was not willing to pay for them since my VIN doesn't show them as coming on the truck.
 

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Pulling it

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I sprayed my "void" today along wit the upper part that is not covered even with that center piece. The dealer was not willing to pay for them since my VIN doesn't show them as coming on the truck.
Looks nice. What did you use? Did you have to protect anything from overspray?
 

Lary0071

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Why are you replacing sheetmetal?
Is that steel? I found the post on Cummins Forum with these links saying that it's the plastic for the wheel tubs to finish the top. I copied the links to her because the mods would get butt hurt if I linked to the Cummins Forum....

2022 Patriot Blue 3500 Dually Limited Longhorn 6.7L with 4.11 gears.
 

Linked4door

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Is that steel? I found the post on Cummins Forum with these links saying that it's the plastic for the wheel tubs to finish the top. I copied the links to her because the mods would get butt hurt if I linked to the Cummins Forum....

2022 Patriot Blue 3500 Dually Limited Longhorn 6.7L with 4.11 gears.
Based off the pics and the name of rhe parts I would think they are metal. I could be wrong, but 99% sure those are steel
 

Lary0071

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Based off the pics and the name of rhe parts I would think they are metal. I could be wrong, but 99% sure those are steel
I'm not going to condone anyone ordering those parts than. But the OP in the Cummins Forum claims that he ordered them and snapped them into his new Ram dually.... but he may be full of fecal matter.

2022 Patriot Blue 3500 Dually Limited Longhorn 6.7L with 4.11 gears.
 

Ktm2smoker

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Gonna order those parts for the visual aspect and put some Herculiner in the top exposed area to guard against road chips ($30 on Amazon, have used it in Jeep tubs before. Not LinEx but should be sufficient. And I'll then soak the areas behind the existing liner with Fluid Film because there's still a gap were road salt and slush can get in!
 

mbarber84

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Gonna order those parts for the visual aspect and put some Herculiner in the top exposed area to guard against road chips ($30 on Amazon, have used it in Jeep tubs before. Not LinEx but should be sufficient. And I'll then soak the areas behind the existing liner with Fluid Film because there's still a gap were road salt and slush can get in!
Have you attempted to order them yet? A few members were posting not that long ago that they were back ordered and not available.
 

Ktm2smoker

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I have not. But I got a quart of Herculiner on Amazon for $30 and a spray can for $12. I'll do that whole area and spray as far back as I can in the gaps. Then, when those parts are available I'll get them. I may determine I don't really need them!

Also have 8 cans of Fluid Film I'll spray underneath sometime in September. I've never had anything rust under that waxy goo and it bubbles it's way in everywhere. OK, I like the smell, too.....
 

Ktm2smoker

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I found that it was hard (after proper prep) to roll the Herculiner, wanted to smear, but a 3" brush worked fine. I emptied the spray can first into the gap areas then had enough to coat the main open area (like a primer) and exposed frame and mounts. After that I put two thick coats of Herculiner about an hour apart and I'm good to go! Put newspaper or towels on the tires to catch drips. I had a drip go right between the tires into a hole on the outside rim! What were the chances? Fortunately I had already ceramic coated them and the drip came right off. Stupid lazy me...):

And do it in your grass, something will drip somewhere. Had a little extra to coat my bolt heads on my center tie downs, too.

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flan

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Wow that looks terrible.
 

flan

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Wow that looks terrible.
I should expand on my post so I don’t start a flame war, the application with a brush looks terrible, very uneven and almost looks sand finish-ish. Air (schutz gun) probably would of been a better application choice.
 

Ktm2smoker

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You aren't wrong! Herculiner usually is and let's be honest....it's a wheel well and I use this stuff once every 10 years on something. I'm done with $40. Now I'll have to get those plastic pieces so you can't see it without sticking your head in there...hehehe. But 10 -20 years from now I'll be saying, "man that looks good". Now for 8 cans of Fluid Film. I've had cars 15 years later look brand new underneath. For the minimal cost it's worth an hour sniffing the sweet fumes.
 

flan

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Fluid film is not bad, but messy if you have to work on anything. Also it never hardens so is susceptible to wash away. A one and done waxy product like noxudol or even CRC 6026 is a much better choice.


 

Ktm2smoker

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I'm sure there's many good products. At my age, I'll stick with what has worked for me for decades. I still use Break Free CLP on my many guns ('ex' Marine here...). There's always a better product but I may not have 10-20 more years to let time prove it out and manufacturer claims be nothing IMVHO. Time is the only proof for some stuff.

I like how it bubbles into areas between the metal, and that doesn't wash away. Every couple years I'll look at where the salt spray is and after driving through a few good spring rains I'll touch those areas up with one can in my yard - though I've never had an area wash away where my finger didn't come off waxy. As far as our last two cars there's so much plastic under those now I usually only end up using half a can and hit them up about every 5 years. To be honest most of the areas are just fine with the factory corrosion inhibitors. For me the extra thick Herculiner application in that wheel well and that side of the frame is to keep rocks from chipping through that.

Did I mention I like the smell? It's all good.
 

flan

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Right on brother anything is better than nothing.
 

tanger57

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