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Automatic Regen too often

Tims Ram said:
Wasn't thinking so much in brand as in quantity being dumped in from the injectors and a turbo issue. You raised another question with the whole dpf system would there be black smoke at the tailpipe?
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Ah ok. No excessive black soot build up at the tail pipe. No smoke under acceleration that I can see.
 
A plugged DPF is a sign that there is a problem somewhere in front of the DPF. Something else is the problem. The DPF is the result.
It’s either getting too much fuel or not enough air or it’s getting oil or coolant into the exhaust. There’s a shopping list of things that have to be checked to find out what the problem is.
 
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OLEJOE said:
A plugged DPF is a sign that there is a problem somewhere in front of the DPF. Something else is the problem. The DPF is the result.
It’s either getting too much fuel or not enough air or it’s getting oil or coolant into the exhaust. There’s a shopping list of things that have to be checked to find out what the problem is.
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Good news, it’s under warranty so that’s a problem for ram. I appreciate the feedback and hopefully it’s something easy.
 
Molonlabemike said:
Good news, it’s under warranty so that’s a problem for ram. I appreciate the feedback and hopefully it’s something easy.
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That is good news if they have a tech that has the knowledge and experience with these trucks. Unfortunately they are few and far between. But there are some that are very good.
 
Just wanted to share an update on my frequent regens issue. My truck had been running a regen every 150 miles and 3-4 hours, and has been doing this since a dealer in VA flashed the ECU when I was in for a going into limp mode message. The last few days I have been pulling my 15k# 5th wheel so I am running pretty heavy. 2 days ago, the truck had done a regen prior to leaving on our trip, ran about 300 miles the DPF gauge starting out around 15%-20% and within 100 miles was reading zero. Stopped for the night a couple of miles off the freeway, today when I started the truck, DPF gauge read zero, within 1 mile it was doing a regen. Ran another 200+ miles today and at the 80 mark the DPF gauge started climbing and ended up a little over 25% when I got to my destination today. I bought a scan tool and have Jscan (still demo mode) and I have the following codes, P2509, P026B and surprise P2459. While
While driving the last 2 days EGT is right around 655.
Why are some codes marked as active and some as permanent?
I am still convinced that the dealer that flashed the ECU last fall screwed something up, but can’t prove it. What else do I need to check?
Should I buy Jscan or is alphaOBD a better product?

Thanks
 
Molonlabemike said:
Paper towel method still the best indicator?
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With so many regens its a great idea to keep an eye on the oil level using your oil dip stick, the reason is too see if the oil level increases {aka oil growth} if your gaining/growing oil that means fuel is somehow getting into the oil an that is not good if its a large amount in a short period of time...
 
Greg10yes said:
Just wanted to share an update on my frequent regens issue. My truck had been running a regen every 150 miles and 3-4 hours, and has been doing this since a dealer in VA flashed the ECU when I was in for a going into limp mode message. The last few days I have been pulling my 15k# 5th wheel so I am running pretty heavy. 2 days ago, the truck had done a regen prior to leaving on our trip, ran about 300 miles the DPF gauge starting out around 15%-20% and within 100 miles was reading zero. Stopped for the night a couple of miles off the freeway, today when I started the truck, DPF gauge read zero, within 1 mile it was doing a regen. Ran another 200+ miles today and at the 80 mark the DPF gauge started climbing and ended up a little over 25% when I got to my destination today. I bought a scan tool and have Jscan (still demo mode) and I have the following codes, P2509, P026B and surprise P2459. While
While driving the last 2 days EGT is right around 655.
Why are some codes marked as active and some as permanent?
I am still convinced that the dealer that flashed the ECU last fall screwed something up, but can’t prove it. What else do I need to check?
Should I buy Jscan or is alphaOBD a better product?

Thanks
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Just curious - have you tried a cetane booster like Archoil 6500? I only ask because I have come to the conclusion that our trucks are tuned to something like 50 cetane diesel, but most diesel in the US is 40-42. This reduces combustion efficiency, and increases soot.

With that said - has your MAF been checked? (Chinese = good, German = bad). As many have stated before (outside the August 2022 build date fiasco where bad DPFs were installed) - the plugged DPF is a system of an issue further upstream. Could be air filter with glue straps (if you had it then changed it, you need to do the ECU relearn procedure. Same required with new MAF), the MAF or leaks somewhere such as the boost tubes. Also as noted above - I would be checking my oil religiously, and if it is above full do an oil change then send a sample into fleetguard for analysis. Mine had 10% dilution, and it is an arrow in your quiver when dealing with Ram.
 
22PearlRamMegaHD said:
Just curious - have you tried a cetane booster like Archoil 6500? I only ask because I have come to the conclusion that our trucks are tuned to something like 50 cetane diesel, but most diesel in the US is 40-42. This reduces combustion efficiency, and increases soot.

With that said - has your MAF been checked? (Chinese = good, German = bad). As many have stated before (outside the August 2022 build date fiasco where bad DPFs were installed) - the plugged DPF is a system of an issue further upstream. Could be air filter with glue straps (if you had it then changed it, you need to do the ECU relearn procedure. Same required with new MAF), the MAF or leaks somewhere such as the boost tubes. Also as noted above - I would be checking my oil religiously, and if it is above full do an oil change then send a sample into fleetguard for analysis. Mine had 10% dilution, and it is an arrow in your quiver when dealing with Ram.
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A couple of months ago I ran the cleaner 6400 through and have been running the 6500 with every tank since and the bottle is just about empty and I have another cleaner already to go along with another bottle of 6500. I checked the oil about 4-5 days ago and it is right at full after sitting over night so I know the level had settled and was accurate. I run a Mopar air filter I got from Geno’s and it does not have glue strips. I recently cleaned the MAP sensor, it was pretty dirty using electronics cleaner, I looked at the MAF sensor, it was clean as expected, I don’t recall if it was the china one or the German one. My oil life is still north of 65%, I just replaced both fuel filters with Mopar ones I get from Geno’s.
Can I read or watch the soot load using Jscan? Is there something else I should be monitoring? The part that throws me is I spend a day pulling somewhat heavy and the IVIC gauge is at zero, start the next day and within a mile it does a regen. Using JScan, can I see the timer for the time based regen?
If I get another limp mode message, using JScan I assume I can force a regen, while running the forced regen can I drive the truck or do I have to run it with the high idle just siting?
I know it is a lot of questions, just trying to got narrow down potential issues.
 
You can run a parked regen with Jscan but I don’t think you can do it if it’s in limp mode. The dealer is the only one who can get rid of the limp mode message. There’s something bad wrong if it regens that fast after heavy towing unless it was a 24 hour regen since the last one. Even if it is doing perfectly and never registers anything on the EVIC DPF gauge, it is going to regen every 24 hours since the last one.
 
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OLEJOE said:
You can run a parked regen with Jscan but I don’t think you can do it if it’s in limp mode. The dealer is the only one who can get rid of the limp mode message. There’s something bad wrong if it regens that fast after heavy towing unless it was a 24 hour regen since the last one. Even if it is doing perfectly and never registers anything on the EVIC DPF gauge, it is going to regen every 24 hours since the last one.
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I agree something is very wrong. That quick regen was maybe 5 hours of driving since the last regen. The last dealer I took it to said they could start replacing parts until they figured out what is wrong but I don’t want anything to do with that. Especially when they said a new DPF is $4k.
 
Greg10yes said:
I agree something is very wrong. That quick regen was maybe 5 hours of driving since the last regen. The last dealer I took it to said they could start replacing parts until they figured out what is wrong but I don’t want anything to do with that. Especially when they said a new DPF is $4k.
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One of the codes you listed is for intermittent power disruption to ECM. Check the connectors that connect to the ECM and make sure they are latched down properly.
 
The P026B code in a Ram vehicle indicates an issue with the injection timing performance of the engine, which can lead to reduced engine performance. It's advisable to have a professional diagnose the problem, as it may involve checking fuel injectors or other related components.
This will definitely make the engine make more soot and regen more often.
 
OLEJOE said:
That wire is covered in a nylon sheath that is very abrasive to the silicone boot that it lays on. I could feel the chafing that was happening on mine and got the wire off of it. That wire needs to be rerouted but I was able to zip tie it up off of it. Any boost or exhaust leak causes problems. You can see and check the hose through the hole in the fender well where the oil filter is located.
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OleJoe, thanks for the additional info on where to find the hose. I just want to check I’m looking at the right thing. Is this the hose/wire combo that everyone’s referring too? Or, is it something else farther back (toward the firewall) in the engine bay that I should be looking for? Thanks.
 

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Cummingeddon said:
OleJoe, thanks for the additional info on where to find the hose. I just want to check I’m looking at the right thing. Is this the hose/wire that everyone’s referring too? Or, is it something else farther back (toward the firewall) in the engine bay that I should be looking for? Thanks.
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Yes that is the hose Im talking about but the wire is on top of the hose on my truck.
The wire Im talking about runs from the alternator to the battery on passenger side.
 

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Quick update. Dropped the truck back at the dealer yesterday for regen issues as they just replaced the DPF filter and sensors back on 6/20. Since I got the truck back with the new DPF system installed, I have had 4 regens. Between the 4 regens I drove 270 miles, which breaks down to 69 miles per regen cycle. The dealer called and stated that the tech states this is acceptable and there isn't much they can do as everything has been changed out. Looking at the TSB it states the MAF should be changed from the German sensor to the Chinese sensor. Would that be worth buying and installing myself? Not ready to fork over for a weight reduction just yet.
 
Molonlabemike said:
Quick update. Dropped the truck back at the dealer yesterday for regen issues as they just replaced the DPF filter and sensors back on 6/20. Since I got the truck back with the new DPF system installed, I have had 4 regens. Between the 4 regens I drove 270 miles, which breaks down to 69 miles per regen cycle. The dealer called and stated that the tech states this is acceptable and there isn't much they can do as everything has been changed out. Looking at the TSB it states the MAF should be changed from the German sensor to the Chinese sensor. Would that be worth buying and installing myself? Not ready to fork over for a weight reduction just yet.
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A regen 4 times in 270 miles is not acceptable nor is it normal, its there way of saying we don't know how to fix it or what the problem is an its just tuff luck for you....
 
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