I’m assuming idle time.11 mpg at 60 miles simple simple math is 6 gallons where did the other 15ish gallons go?
Thats alotta idle.I’m assuming idle time.
I had the DPF totally block (40k miles) and was towed to the dealer. They used their software and did a DPF regen/calibrate. This is usually done when a new DPF is fitted. It ran the truck at reves for probably 30 minutes. When finished it showed zero. They said the issue was contaminated DEF so this was drained and refilled. No problems since then and it now has over 100k on the ODO.
Dont know if this is available with alphaobd. Would be good to know.
While a DPF primarily captures soot and ash from the engine exhaust, a malfunctioning DEF system due to contamination can affect the entire aftertreatment process, potentially leading to increased soot production or a compromised DPF regeneration, ultimately causing it to clog.That makes no sense. DEF has nothing to do with the DPF. It is injected into the SCR to reduce nitrous oxide levels in the exhaust. After the DPF. With no feedback to the DPF.
Sounds like a great candidate for a trade in.Quick update. My star case was never closed, so when I dropped the truck off this AM they were able to start where they left off. The tech ran a bunch of tests and sent that data to Ram to see what they want to throw at it next. He states that the soot levels in the DPF is 5 grams, which is higher then he would like to see on a brand new DPF filter. I have about 1,000 miles left on my basic, and I am using every inch of that. Stupid trucks screen started to delaminate over this weekend and the rear pinion seal has started to leak so they will be fixing that. Still need to get the hood repainted due to corrosion.. This truck might be cursed
Unfortunately this is a last resort option and I’m not there yet. I genuinely like the truck. Once it’s out of powertrain it will go on a diet which will fix a majority of the issues.Sounds like a great candidate for a trade in.
Let us know if it works and where they are hooking the other end to.Another update. Dealer called and states that Ram has instructed them to add another ground the battery in hopes of fixing my DPF issue. From there they have to run more test. Anyone heard of that being a real fix? Tech buddy of mine is saying it’s most likely a stuck injector which depending how bad could wash down the walls.
While a DPF primarily captures soot and ash from the engine exhaust, a malfunctioning DEF system due to contamination can affect the entire aftertreatment process, potentially leading to increased soot production or a compromised DPF regeneration, ultimately causing it to clog.
Agreed with your point it cannot directly cause the issue... It can indirectly cause issues.
I'm NOT saying I agree with the dealer, because it seems as they jumped to a conclusion. There are many other issues that can directly cause a malfunctioning emissions system.
While a DPF primarily captures soot and ash from the engine exhaust, a malfunctioning DEF system due to contamination can affect the entire aftertreatment process, potentially leading to increased soot production or a compromised DPF regeneration, ultimately causing it to clog.
Agreed with your point it cannot directly cause the issue... It can indirectly cause issues.
I'm NOT saying I agree with the dealer, because it seems as they jumped to a conclusion. There are many other issues that can directly cause a malfunctioning emissions system.

Take a look at your MAF. If it's made in Germany, swap for the made in China one. I went thru what your going thru. Took them 4 months to resolve. However, I think my resolution was temporary as the issue is likely in programming. I'm also of the belief it is the lack of cetane in fuels. Most stations sell basic stuff with 40-42 cetane. Needs to be closer to 48. The slower ignition is likely leading to incomplete burns which creates both more soot and reduced EGTs which make passive regen nearly impossible.
With that said I got a new maf. Solved nothing even tho it was the german one. Tried CCV, Air filter, DPF and much more from May to August last year before returning to me saying it was fixed. Since then, all but 1 regen was a 24 hour regen until April this year. I've had a couple 5 hour, 200 mile regens. After those two I dumped Archoil 6400D in the tank - went 450 miles and about 9 hours with no regens. Lately I've run Archoil 6500 at 3 oz per 10 gallons. I've had nothing register on the gauge since I had the two 5 hour 200 mile regens cycles with a return to the 24 hour timed regens.
With the above info I really do think it's a combination of programming and poor USA diesel cetane ratings cause the shooting issues. The 6400d and 6500 seemingly increase cetane (performance is much better, especially when you need to scoot in a hurry) while reducing the EGTs necessary for passive regen.
Hope this helps
If the DEF system malfunctions (e.g., clogged DEF injector, low-quality DEF, contaminated DEF, or a faulty DEF pump), insufficient or improper DEF will be delivered to the SCR catalyst. This means the SCR system won't effectively convert NOx.How would it indirectly increase soot production?
The DEF is injected post DPF and has no possible way to increase soot production, which occurs during combustion.
If the DEF system malfunctions (e.g., clogged DEF injector, low-quality DEF, contaminated DEF, or a faulty DEF pump), insufficient or improper DEF will be delivered to the SCR catalyst. This means the SCR system won't effectively convert NOx.
* Indirect Soot Impact: To compensate for high NOx emissions (as sensed by NOx sensors), the engine's Engine Control Unit (ECU) can and will alter combustion parameters to reduce NOx at the source. This often involves strategies like enriching the fuel-air mixture or modifying injection timing, which can lead to incomplete combustion and, consequently, increased soot production. Additionally, some systems might try to regenerate the DPF more frequently to compensate for overall emissions, which can also be less efficient if other systems are compromised.
It's been a year since I went thru it, but I believe you key on and drive at a constant RPM (highway cruise set at like 70mph) for 20 minutes. Then shut down for 20 minutes. Repeat this 2 more times for a total of 3 cycles. This should complete the MAF relearnDoes anyone know what the voltage readings with a multimeter should be on the signal wire of the MAF? I have the German version of the MAF Sensor on my 2019, and I get a reading of 3.67 V when in KeyOn/Engine Off, and 4.07V at idle to 4.31V at 2,000 RPM. It seems like it should be starting at something closer to 0V on the Signal wire. Also, the ECM power wire shows 5V consistently. Should this be 12V?
Lastly, where can I find the steps for the "MAF Relearn" if I end up having to replace the German MAF Sensor with the Chinese version. I've haven't read all 89 pages of this thread, but have gone through a good chunk of it and haven't seen answers to this. TIA.
EDIT : I eventually found the relearn procedure on another thread https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/regens-at-alarming-rate.11413/post-290525.
Still interested in any data folks might have for correct voltage readings on the MAF sensor signal wire and hot wire.
It’s 10 minutes @ 2600 rpm, then off for 10 minutes. Repeat twice more for a total of 3-10 minute drive cycles and 3-10 minute off cycles.It's been a year since I went thru it, but I believe you key on and drive at a constant RPM (highway cruise set at like 70mph) for 20 minutes. Then shut down for 20 minutes. Repeat this 2 more times for a total of 3 cycles. This should complete the MAF relearn
I think the ECM operates with a 5V signal for most of the sensors. I know for a fact that making any changes to the entire intake system, from the grill to the turbo, will cause an almost immediate regen atleast on my truck. So if you make any changes, you’ll have to drive it for a little bit to see if the changes made were beneficial or not. All of this is a recommendation based on the experience I have had with my truck.Does anyone know what the voltage readings with a multimeter should be on the signal wire of the MAF? I have the German version of the MAF Sensor on my 2019, and I get a reading of 3.67 V when in KeyOn/Engine Off, and 4.07V at idle to 4.31V at 2,000 RPM. It seems like it should be starting at something closer to 0V on the Signal wire. Also, the ECM power wire shows 5V consistently. Should this be 12V?
Lastly, where can I find the steps for the "MAF Relearn" if I end up having to replace the German MAF Sensor with the Chinese version. I've haven't read all 89 pages of this thread, but have gone through a good chunk of it and haven't seen answers to this. TIA.
EDIT : I eventually found the relearn procedure on another thread https://hdrams.com/forum/index.php?threads/regens-at-alarming-rate.11413/post-290525.
Still interested in any data folks might have for correct voltage readings on the MAF sensor signal wire and hot wire.