How do you an intake leak post boost tube?
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Regens at alarming rate!
- Thread starter NVYCHF
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How do you an intake leak post boost tube?
flan
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The 6.0 always passed a ton of oil through the intercooler system, the blue intercooler boots didn’t like that. I’ve replaced a couple. Also the early 6.0s with the plastic piping on top of the motor split a lot, it got changed after a year or 2 of production.
Riddick
Well-Known Member
Over the years I have done dozens of boost leak checks on turbo charged gasoline cars and have always hooked up directly to the turbo inlet and pressurized the entire system. Yes, you will have air going air through the crank case but you should easily be able to maintain 15-20 psi through the system which is more than enough to identify any leaks. Your method would certainly isolate the air to charge pipes and the intercooler ONLY but I don't think its 100% necessary.
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
Disconnect the boost tube on the turbo side and with it running spray ether on the intake. It will let you know.
CaptainMike
Well-Known Member
Once you dropped about $15K in deletes, updates, and upgrades that 6.0 was a sweet engine!
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
After reading all of this (again) I haven’t seen anyone mention the percentage of EGR. If the percentage of EGR were too high, wouldn’t that lower EGT’s in the combustion chamber and exhaust system reducing passive regeneration ? Wouldn’t that be the reason passive regeneration only happens when towing or having to be run 75+ mph ? I know towing and higher boost reduces the amount of EGR. Maybe some with the extra monitors that are having problems and some that are not could compare the readings they are getting and see if there is a difference. I’m not currently having any issues but my truck doesn’t seem to be using much DEF and wondering if it’s because of increased amount of EGR.
CaptainMike
Well-Known Member
Well crap, my truck did a regen after 5 engine hours, reset to zero and then quickly jumped to about 10%. Most of my driving is at highway speeds with very little in-town driving. I will say it is an improvement over the 2 +/- engine hour regens, but something still isn't right. The dealer tech is going to start a Star case and we'll see where that goes. Words can't express how utterly disappointed I am with this very expensive POS truck.
TrunkMonkey
Member
Ok, I'm not sure what all of this means, but thought I would pass along the info and maybe someone smarter than me can make it make sense. My truck, 2022 tradesman has been doing frequent active regens, approximately 3 per tank of fuel since new. It has never done a passive regen even when hauling a heavy load for an extended period of time. The last 2 tanks of diesel I purchased from a different station that advertises the fuel is up to 20% biodiesel. The first time I purchased it was by mistake, but I noticed something. For the first time, the truck did a passive regen while driving and my dpf filter went from 30% to 0 without the truck going into active regen. Since that time, the dpf filter has stayed on 0, even though the last tank and a half has been all in town driving. The fuel being used now is produced by a small time local refinery that buys soybeans from local farmers and uses it to produce the biodiesel blend. I have read that biodiesel is not the best for these trucks even though it is approved for use by cummins. But, why is it making my frequent regen issue go away? Just for information purposes, the local refinery producing the fuel is Continental Refining Company, and the call it Ultraburn F20 Blend.
Interesting. I'm no expert but have also been able to notice differences in miles between regens when experimenting with fuel. Was going 120 miles between regens, then 60 miles to regen on Wawa fuel. Switched to Shell and simultaneously started adding 12oz of Power Service Diesel Klean at fill up and was getting 275 miles between regens and only 30 miles to regen DPF. Just reduced the amount of Diesel Klean to 6oz per tank and mileage suffered, 180 miles between regens and 50 miles to regen filter. Driving style is very consistent. 130 miles a day Mon-Fri, mostly highway, no load.
I have stayed away from biodiesel but crap, might as well give it a try! I'm certainly not keeping this truck past the 100k warranty. Long term reliability because of fuel dilution has me very concerned.
CaptainMike
Well-Known Member
We have a local Pilot station that has B20, it's worth a shot. Thanks for sharing.
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
I think the B20 is a lot different from the UltraBurn F20 he’s describing in his post. I read about the CRC fuels on their website. Check it out.
Toyotaguy
Active Member
My issue seems to be solved, must have gotten a bad air filter replaced it again and the now I’m back to 24 hr scheduled regens only.
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Thorvald
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Just an update since my last, my last two regens have been timed (24 hr regens), the DPF gauge was barely above 5% if at all. Air filter so far was the winner.
This is where the CTS3 has come in handy, it‘s Regen status shows Soot level or Time to next Regen. Had me confused at first when it got close to 80% and my DPF gauge showed zero on the EVIC.
Now I need to figure out how to get the CTS3 to show the same gauge as the EVIC as well (Soot Level).
This is where the CTS3 has come in handy, it‘s Regen status shows Soot level or Time to next Regen. Had me confused at first when it got close to 80% and my DPF gauge showed zero on the EVIC.
Now I need to figure out how to get the CTS3 to show the same gauge as the EVIC as well (Soot Level).
Which air filter did you use previously and which one are you using now?
22 Ram! Mine went about 5 or 6 thousand miles before the first regen code. Now I get a regen about every 100 miles.I have been watching this thread with some interest. Maybe I'm worrying about nothing, just seems like the '22s have some ... issues in this area my 2020 did not seem to have. (I have a 2022 HO). Close to 10k miles, I've done several empty trips and pull a ~15k 5th wheel. (I really need to run it over the scales). Anyway, I don't have another vehicle and don't really want one, so it's a daily to run around town and do errands when I need to, before someone tells me I shouldn't use it for a grocery getter.I don't like to do the short trips, but that's my situation. Having another vehicle around really isn't feasible, though I'd love to find something sporty, the appropriations committee (i.e. my wife, will not approve the expenditure, lol) I haven't gotten any codes, but I did recently get a pair of Banks iDash monitors and I love the visibility. I need to start some data logging, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.
I monitor the miles between regen PID, there's a DPF % PID (can't remember exactly the name), when it goes to 100% regen kicks in. It's no surprise when I have several short trips around town without pulling the camper, my miles between regen drops to around 320. Pulling/empty and highway speeds I never see much in the way of regens except the ones that are time-based.
An observation/theory I'm forming is the conventional wisdom around locking out 5th/6th gears when going around town is actually not as helpful one might think. Volume of air going through the system isn't has helpful as higher temps. Watching EGT1/3, the temps are a lot higher if I let it drop into 5/6th gear and lug a bit. I did some research and it's basically air volume -- more air at higher RPMs actually cools things down and higher temps should, in theory, help passively regen/clean. Far as I can tell, my DPF is currently 'clear', the % 'full' PID was at 17% when I got back from a trip this morning. I pulled the trailer this weekend and it did an active regen right when I hitched up. I'll see if I can add some more data on a truck that's ostensibly working (mine)the way it's supposed to, although 3xx miles between regens kinda sucks IMO. Not as bad as what you're seeing, but not great.
At the dealership they inspected it and I was told that there were a bunch of 22s that Ram didn’t install the filter or some part of the DPF system! I have to drive about 30 miles In regen mode every time, it’s getting really old and really expensive! Ugh!!!!
I feel like a broken record…
The part that wasn’t installed on 2022’s (and some late production 2021’s) was the particulate matter sensor. Its function is to monitor your exhaust at the outlet of the emissions system and check for signs of soot exiting the aftertreatment system. It does not control regeneration cycles or have anything to do with how your truck regenerates. It also doesn’t have anything to do with DEF consumption or dosing quantities. It’s simply a watchdog to make sure the DPF is capturing soot. If the sensor picks up too much soot in the exhaust flow after the emissions system, that would indicate there’s a breach in the DPF (cracked media or cracked pressure vessel) and would indicate that the DPF has failed and needs replaced.
If you’re regenerating frequently you have other issues. The Y43 recall and the PM sensor has nothing to do with it.
First thing to check is your engine air filter. Make sure you’re using the correct one.
There’s a bunch of 22s that they skipped some DPF part on, it’s BS
The part that’s missing is not a DPF part and has nothing to do with regeneration.
Like I said , yes Ram skipped some parts on the 22s! I use the factory air filter!
I’ve never been a litigious person, but if there’s a class action lawsuit I’m all in!
There’s nothing to go into a lawsuit over. There’s a recall and they’re working to install the sensor under the Y43 recall. It doesn’t have any impact on your frequency of regeneration anyway.
The regen frequency issue can be a whole host of different things (or combinations of things). It’s becoming more and more common, but the reason for it seems to jump around. Lots of different components can contribute to the cause of the problem. Step one is getting a knowledgeable dealer to diagnose it.
The regen frequency issue can be a whole host of different things (or combinations of things). It’s becoming more and more common, but the reason for it seems to jump around. Lots of different components can contribute to the cause of the problem. Step one is getting a knowledgeable dealer to diagnose it.