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Crusty's 75th Annv PW #1590 build/mods adventure

Well, hit another little snag. The screw cap for the rubber pill where you stick a needle in to charge them is a 5/16 24 thread. The schrader valve kit they have is 5/16 34.
So now I'm on the hunt for a high pressure stainless steel 5/16 24 schrader valve. Found one at a different shop than where I'm getting all the other supplies, poly performance. Asked Pol P if they had any of the correct valves so I can do a 1 stop shopping. Rather do schrader valves than the rubber pill as the special needle set up can be expensive.
 
Just got a email from shock Surplus for a Bilstein 5100 package that they say fits the PW, even though CJC says it doesn't.
So confusing.

Waiting on a email from Fox and Poly Performance to clarify a few things before I place my order for parts to do the rebuild.
 
Finally got a reply back from Fox.

Got to change my order up a bit, but ordering parts this week.

985-24-204 Shock Specs; front shocks

(10.90 +/- .10 ) IFP DEPTH
NITROGEN CHARGE PRESSURE 120-130 PSI.

985-24-169 Shock Specs; rear shocks

(10.55 +/- .10 ) IFP DEPTH
NITROGEN CHARGE PRESSURE 195-205 PSI.

With both shocks you would need a different shock body or a different shock, with the body designs you would have to use to needle fill with the rubber ball. With these particular shocks that cannot be changed.
 
Finally got a reply back from Fox.

Got to change my order up a bit, but ordering parts this week.

985-24-204 Shock Specs; front shocks

(10.90 +/- .10 ) IFP DEPTH
NITROGEN CHARGE PRESSURE 120-130 PSI.

985-24-169 Shock Specs; rear shocks

(10.55 +/- .10 ) IFP DEPTH
NITROGEN CHARGE PRESSURE 195-205 PSI.

With both shocks you would need a different shock body or a different shock, with the body designs you would have to use to needle fill with the rubber ball. With these particular shocks that cannot be changed.
When this is all done it would be awesome if you put up a summary post about the parts and process.
 
My inquiring (ignorant) mind is wondering if the 2.5” or 3” body shocks would last longer than the 2” ones?
 
I wonder if one could do the rebuild and then take it somewhere to get the nitrogen charged?
 
I wonder if one could do the rebuild and then take it somewhere to get the nitrogen charged?
For sure. That’s what I did. After I revalved my shocks I took them to an off-road shop and got them charged up.

Side note I use a bike pressure gauge that’s designed to not bleed off any pressure when you check the pressure
 
They may last longer as there is more oil.

When I rebuilt my Kings, I took them to a shop to get recharged.

But I'm no longer in a situation where I can do that. So recharging myself is a better option for me now
 
They may last longer as there is more oil.

When I rebuilt my Kings, I took them to a shop to get recharged.

But I'm no longer in a situation where I can do that. So recharging myself is a better option for me now
I’m guessing I’ll need to rebuild my shocks in the next year at the rate I’m putting on miles, and if I’m still doing the full time RV thing I can find a place to store tools, but a canister of nitrogen would be a bit more complicated.
 
You can get small ones I have a medium size one as that's all they had at the gas place at the time.

But if you are not using it often, it's probably better to find a shop to recharge them
 
So, was out driving the truck today in the snow and wound up hitting a few big holes I couldn't see. Both the front and rear hit like there was no shock. It felt like it bottomed out hard, with no cushion.
Hopefully nothing got damaged. Just waiting on parts for now.
 
I suggest when servicing the shocks is to go to a Schrader valve. I have used needle for year and never feel good about them. When I pressurize a shock when needles I an never confident on the pressure. Some time when removing the needle they will leak. You can get the Schafer valve s from Kartek or Schmidt racing. If you going to add more oil I would not suggest to pass the +\- .100 this is to keep the pressure rise in check with the shaft displacement. If you know these things that's good. Not all of us do, shock are not hard to service but they can be messy. Gloves, an apron and drips on your shoes lol.

I have Thuren \ fox and used gen 2 raptor Schrader valves. 10x32 thread. Fox uses a few different threads. The correct tool for the Allen fill is 400.00$$.


 
Fox says you can't replace the rubber pellet with a schrader valve.
But I know it's a 5/16 24 thread. I'm going to take a look at it when I tear them down. If it looks doable, then I'll replace them.

I rebuilt my King 2.5 remote resi shocks on my Blazer so I'm familiar with the process.
 
Yep, that's me. I'll figure out some way to do it.

I bought a metal lathe just so I could make some small threaded picks to mount a body on a project I'm building. :cool:
I built my '73 K5 Blazer. Everything on it. Axles, motor, manual tranny, T case, cross over steering, wiring harness, body work, shocks.
Had 12" travel front, 18" rear. Was a blast to drive. Had about 150 break in miles on it, then took it on a 2K mile trip down into Baja. :cool:
 
Had ordered the air valve pellets for the shocks from KarTec on Friday. As of today, USPS still shows they are awaiting the package. So I emailed KarTec to see when they will actually ship the item. They said that USPS does not stop at their shop every day, so they didn't know when it will actually ship.

So I paid $13.50 to ship a $7 part priority shipping, but they don't know when it will ship????
I replied back that if they can't get it in the mail tomorrow, then to cancel the order. So they just up and canceled it. No notice. I got the refund email from PayPal. Plus they were rude in their email responses, like it was my fault for not paying for different shipping at a much higher cost, which wasn't a option I was offered when I purchased it.
They are over priced on their stuff anyways.
Found the items on line from a bike shop for half the price and shipping was also half the price.

Needles to say, I won't be shopping there anymore
 
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