Crusty's 75th Annv PW #1590 build/mods adventure

[Crusty old shellback]

Using these for backing plates.


One down, three more to go.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Half way done.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Well ****.
Looks like I'm going to have to pull the bumper to get the other 2 lights on. But then how do I adjust them when I put the bumper back on?
Or pull the grill and hope I can get into the bolts.

 

[oppizzippo]

Well ****.
Looks like I'm going to have to pull the bumper to get the other 2 lights on. But then how do I adjust them when I put the bumper back on?
Or pull the grill and hope I can get into the bolts.

Maybe use a star lock washer so you can adjust with it loose and then tighten it from the top.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Or I can weld the nuts to the backing plate I made.
But the main center bolt HAS to be loosened from the bottom as it sits in groves in the top mounting plate that keep it from rotating.

Just watched a YouTube video and the grill is easy enough to remove. Gonna give that a try next truck work day.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Well not sure I can even remove the grill with the lights installed as the grill has to come forward some before you can lift it out.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

So back to the drawing board.
I've already drilled all the holes in the bumper, so I'm committed.

So I'm thinking weld the nuts onto the backing support plates. Grind the nubs off the light brackets.
Then paint everything since I'll have to remove some of the powdercoat to do the welding and all.
Then I can just put locktight on the bolts when I install them. But I may have to remove the bumper still so I can mount the outer brackets.

 

[UglyViking]

That lower valence needs to come off to get the grille off I believe. I think the bumper is possibly the easiest option, but wouldn't call it easy.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

I watched a YouTube video. The main grill is all one piece. There are bolts from the underside. But you have to slide the grill out some from the front. And with the light brackets there, I don't think there is enough room.

So bumper pull it is.

 

[Great White North Eh]

Nut zerts?

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Not sure if that will work. I have these backing plates I made for the inside of the bumper. They are a bit thick. 1/8" or 3/16".

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Took the lights off and started my mods.





Also this showed up today.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Well after snapping one of the 12 MM mounting bolts in half that came with the lights, I decided to get some quality bolts and nuts. Also had issues with the nuts.
So I cut everything off the mounting plates and am starting over.
I'm also removing the bumper to install the brackets.

But first, I've got to do some suspension work and get new tires installed and truck aligned.
That job starts tomorrow when I install the Thuren rear track bar.
New tires go on Thursday with balance beads this time.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Out with the old and in with the new today.

 

[G Mcpherson]

Now the Fun Begins.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Now the Fun Begins.

You have no idea.
Update and details soon.
But the job is done.

 

[G Mcpherson]

Oh yeah. I've done it 3 times now. Good times

 

[Crusty old shellback]

So, while it looks like a simple install, just drill some holes, bolt in the bracket and your done.

NOPE.
A half dozen or so broken drill bits, a dozen or so times to the drill sharpener, a little grinding here and there to get the holes lined up, redrilling a hole because it wasn't straight across, lots of cussing, banging my head on the underside of the truck, and I'm finally done.

Hardest part is drilling the straight hole in the correct spot for the bolt that goes close to where the original track bar bolt went. On the Power Wagon, you have to drill a new one as the original hole is not in the same place as it is on regular 2500s.
There is just enough room to sit up and put your head up in the hole to the side of the spare tire. If you have the factory bed step, you have to deploy it to make room.

So I started by enlarging the bottom holes to 1/2" for the new bolts. Figured that would help in aligning the new mount so I coukd mark the hole I needed to drill for the spacer bolt. Bolted up the bracket and used a couple of C clamps to make sure it was tight against all surfaces. Then marked the hole to drill it.

This is where my issues started. First off, it's awkward to get up in there to see things. Then you are trying to drill thru 1/4" plate steel. And just as you get thru the steel, the bit hooks up and twist the drill out of your hand and breaks the bit, even the 1/2" ones.

So have plenty of sharp bits in the same sizes on hand before you start.


So after several hours of all of this, I got the holes drilled and the bracket mounted.


Mounting the track bar was easy. Used a ratchet strap to move the axle over about 1/8" to the passenger side to get the bolts in.
Overall, it looks good. Bar is almost parallel with the ground and frame. So it should work a lot better.



Thursday she gets driven to town for new shoes. So we will see how she acts on the way in and after the new shoes and alingment.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

Oh, and I measured the rear axle and it's exactly centered under the truck. I didn't measure it before I started so don't know if it was off or not. But I moved the axle over 1/8" to get the track bar holes to line up.

 

[flan]

Sounds like it would of been a good opportunity to explain to the wife why you neeeed a magnetic drill…