gprguy
Well-Known Member
Painted, installed, factory-ish.
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4500 Camper/Jeep Hauler Build
- Thread starter gprguy
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- 4500 camper chassis cab jeep
gprguy
Well-Known Member
Hydraulic Leveling System - Rear
I'm starting the install of the EQ Systems auto leveling system, at least the jacks. I don't plan on installing the control unit until the cabinet for behind the cab is built, it's just too much of a mess to take apart and put back together again.
My plans are to install the rear legs where the rear spring hangers were, and the front legs on the side of the transmission crossmember. So, first, off to the CNC Plasma to cut out some brackets I designed:
The rear brackets are the two on the far right. Everything else is for the front, and I will be tackling that later this week if things go to plan.
Here are those brackets welded to the U shaped channel that comes with the EQ Systems kit, plus some paint:
Installed on the frame:
And finally with the 12k (each) hydraulic legs installed:
They hang down just below the fuel tank skid plate which is perfect. You can also see why I wanted to get rid of the tail pipe and do a side exit exhaust, this jack would be in the way.
I'm starting the install of the EQ Systems auto leveling system, at least the jacks. I don't plan on installing the control unit until the cabinet for behind the cab is built, it's just too much of a mess to take apart and put back together again.
My plans are to install the rear legs where the rear spring hangers were, and the front legs on the side of the transmission crossmember. So, first, off to the CNC Plasma to cut out some brackets I designed:
The rear brackets are the two on the far right. Everything else is for the front, and I will be tackling that later this week if things go to plan.
Here are those brackets welded to the U shaped channel that comes with the EQ Systems kit, plus some paint:
Installed on the frame:
And finally with the 12k (each) hydraulic legs installed:
They hang down just below the fuel tank skid plate which is perfect. You can also see why I wanted to get rid of the tail pipe and do a side exit exhaust, this jack would be in the way.
gprguy
Well-Known Member
Hydraulic Leveling System - Front
For the front jacks I am using slightly smaller jacks with a 7,500lb capacity (each). I decided to fabricate some mounts that build off of the existing transmission crossmember side mounts so I don't have to weld on the frame. Specifically, these side mounts:
Step 1, remove it. I did paint up the bare steel after I took this photo.
Here are the parts - a main plate and two gussets cut out on the CNC plasma, along with the removed factory mount. The 3 big holes in the mount are to access the factory bolts with a socket, and the 6 smaller ones are to bolt the jack in place.
And here we are tacked together:
Welded and painted:
Installed back on the truck:
And finally, the jack installed:
I'm pleased with how it came out - I think it's the best it can be given the constraints. On the Dynamax Isata which uses a similar system, they actually use a taller jack that goes right behind the rear of the cab wall (because it's a regular cab truck). The transmission cross member is midway along the front door so it's even farther forward on my truck. It does hang down a few inches from the crossmember but with the air suspension I can easily raise the truck 4-5" if needed to clear something. Lastly this is a dirt road truck at worst, I'm not going wheeling in it.
So now I just need to repeat the process on the other side.
For the front jacks I am using slightly smaller jacks with a 7,500lb capacity (each). I decided to fabricate some mounts that build off of the existing transmission crossmember side mounts so I don't have to weld on the frame. Specifically, these side mounts:
Step 1, remove it. I did paint up the bare steel after I took this photo.
Here are the parts - a main plate and two gussets cut out on the CNC plasma, along with the removed factory mount. The 3 big holes in the mount are to access the factory bolts with a socket, and the 6 smaller ones are to bolt the jack in place.
And here we are tacked together:
Welded and painted:
Installed back on the truck:
And finally, the jack installed:
I'm pleased with how it came out - I think it's the best it can be given the constraints. On the Dynamax Isata which uses a similar system, they actually use a taller jack that goes right behind the rear of the cab wall (because it's a regular cab truck). The transmission cross member is midway along the front door so it's even farther forward on my truck. It does hang down a few inches from the crossmember but with the air suspension I can easily raise the truck 4-5" if needed to clear something. Lastly this is a dirt road truck at worst, I'm not going wheeling in it.
So now I just need to repeat the process on the other side.
gprguy
Well-Known Member
Thanks all.
I don't know - I will probably do some measuring after I get the passenger side bracket finished (it's actually welded up, but I need to add some tabs to it to secure an air line that passes by and life is getting in the way of shop time). The rear jacks have more travel so I am pretty sure they would let me lift the rear end off the ground and do a tire change. The fronts may be more marginal, the suspension has a decent amount of droop.
Unfortunately I am not going to be hooking up the hydraulic pump for a while, I want to get the cabinet it will live in built first. But I will probably take some measurements before I get it off the stands.
My general plan would be to dump the air suspension at a camp site and then let the hydraulics auto level from there. Keep the truck as low as possible, then let the legs level the truck and carry the weight while the axles/wheels remain on the ground.
I don't know - I will probably do some measuring after I get the passenger side bracket finished (it's actually welded up, but I need to add some tabs to it to secure an air line that passes by and life is getting in the way of shop time). The rear jacks have more travel so I am pretty sure they would let me lift the rear end off the ground and do a tire change. The fronts may be more marginal, the suspension has a decent amount of droop.
Unfortunately I am not going to be hooking up the hydraulic pump for a while, I want to get the cabinet it will live in built first. But I will probably take some measurements before I get it off the stands.
My general plan would be to dump the air suspension at a camp site and then let the hydraulics auto level from there. Keep the truck as low as possible, then let the legs level the truck and carry the weight while the axles/wheels remain on the ground.
Awesome build. I had a very similar scenario this spring/summer. 5500 on order, unable to be delivered in many months, found a 4500 and bought it. In my case a ‘21 Laramie with 30k on it. I’ve done just the 2 stage rear kelderman, also a chrome delete. I was planning to build my own bed but my 21 had one so using that for now. I try to get off the road so modifications done for 37” tires.
Looking forward to seeing more!
Looking forward to seeing more!
gprguy
Well-Known Member
Nice! Any pics of your truck? I saw the edge of it in the headlight threads, looks like you went super singles?
Yeah, none the same as the modifications keep coming.
I’m still deciding between a kelderman vs aev bumper so have the stock one chopped for now to fit the 37s and axle relocation.
Running the super singles but have a matching rear set of duals being made (stazworks). Front will stay the same and can swap single or dual in the back. My biggest issue with most aftermarket duals and bigger tires were pushing over the 102 legal width. With stazworks, I should be at 98 wide with a 37x11.5 so just an inch beyond the flatbed on each side.
I’ve got my vintage camper at times and playing around with bed configurations when off. It’s not a daily driver and a perfect platform for anything!
I’m still deciding between a kelderman vs aev bumper so have the stock one chopped for now to fit the 37s and axle relocation.
Running the super singles but have a matching rear set of duals being made (stazworks). Front will stay the same and can swap single or dual in the back. My biggest issue with most aftermarket duals and bigger tires were pushing over the 102 legal width. With stazworks, I should be at 98 wide with a 37x11.5 so just an inch beyond the flatbed on each side.
I’ve got my vintage camper at times and playing around with bed configurations when off. It’s not a daily driver and a perfect platform for anything!
gprguy
Well-Known Member
Nice! That sucker looks mean, and I love the color scheme on the camper.
I am definitely going AEV myself, it's just way down the to-do list. I'll be really interested to see how your rear duals come out. I have to keep the duals in the back on mine, but I would love to run something wider on the front like a lot of dump trucks and off road class 8's run these days, just to get more floatation up there. I had totally forgotten about Stazworks until you mentioned them..
I am definitely going AEV myself, it's just way down the to-do list. I'll be really interested to see how your rear duals come out. I have to keep the duals in the back on mine, but I would love to run something wider on the front like a lot of dump trucks and off road class 8's run these days, just to get more floatation up there. I had totally forgotten about Stazworks until you mentioned them..
Thanks!
Check out stazworks. You can find some really mixed reviews out there. Some people had some issues 6 or 8 years ago. A lot of more recent positives. I have no issues so far. I have the most recent model and they say they were tested at 8k each. They are massive forged wheels so I am not surprised. I have offsets to run at 93” wide front and rear in single configuration but they had a 91” option front if you want a little less aggressive. John is supper knowledgeable on all the specs.
Check out stazworks. You can find some really mixed reviews out there. Some people had some issues 6 or 8 years ago. A lot of more recent positives. I have no issues so far. I have the most recent model and they say they were tested at 8k each. They are massive forged wheels so I am not surprised. I have offsets to run at 93” wide front and rear in single configuration but they had a 91” option front if you want a little less aggressive. John is supper knowledgeable on all the specs.
gprguy
Well-Known Member
They are aluminum, right? They look it in the photos, but the stazworks site looks like it hasn't changed since I last checked on them in 2005..
Anyway - I definitely will, but that's even farther down my list than the bumper. I'll look forward to seeing yours.
Anyway - I definitely will, but that's even farther down my list than the bumper. I'll look forward to seeing yours.
Great White North Eh
Squish Cat - And So
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Kick arse Gate!! Your camper must have been stored indoors to be in that sweet of shape! Awesome build.
Yes, aluminum. Their website sucks. Their Facebook page has much more info.
What a brute! I Love it!Yeah, none the same as the modifications keep coming.
I’m still deciding between a kelderman vs aev bumper so have the stock one chopped for now to fit the 37s and axle relocation.
Running the super singles but have a matching rear set of duals being made (stazworks). Front will stay the same and can swap single or dual in the back. My biggest issue with most aftermarket duals and bigger tires were pushing over the 102 legal width. With stazworks, I should be at 98 wide with a 37x11.5 so just an inch beyond the flatbed on each side.
I’ve got my vintage camper at times and playing around with bed configurations when off. It’s not a daily driver and a perfect platform for anything!
gprguy
Well-Known Member
Finished up the last front jack. Got the truck back down off the jack stands and I am very happy with the ground clearances at ride height. I also did a little measuring - to lift the truck off the ground with the jacks I'd need to add a block or two under the jacks, but it should do it just fine. I'll probably play around with that after I get the pump and controller installed down the road.
Unless I get distracted by something shiny, this should have been the last project before I start on the bed and backpack cabinet. Which I have to design first. Which means it may be a bit before the next substantive update..
Unless I get distracted by something shiny, this should have been the last project before I start on the bed and backpack cabinet. Which I have to design first. Which means it may be a bit before the next substantive update..
Bigboom338
Active Member
Following. I pick up my new 5500 in the morning. I am not going to do any suspension upgrades that I know of, but I really want to see your bed, box build. I am taking the easy route and having a CM RD bed installed. I will be carrying my vintage 1999 Lance 1130 on mine.
I want to see your garage box, I am going to see if I can get our ebikes up in that area.
I want to see your garage box, I am going to see if I can get our ebikes up in that area.
That's awesome. Your intended purpose plus a not insignificant bonus of being able to self lift for a flat tire or stuck in a rut type situation just by adding a block of wood.
gprguy
Well-Known Member
Awesome, congrats on the new truck. I am busy designing it, nothing worth sharing yet but I have been learning Fusion360 so I have the back half of the truck and the camper modeled. It's looking like my bed needs to be 5" thick for all the proper clearances, and I am leaning towards a 28" or so wide cabinet for the bikes. I need to finalize that cabinet design and then things should start to fall in place from there.
FWIW our bikes are RadExpand 5's. They're folding, but pretty chunky compared to most folding bikes.
So far the only big unsolved problem is where to put my spare tire. I was hoping it could go in the cabinet as well but there's no way unless I get super creative.