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4500 Camper/Jeep Hauler Build

gprguy said:
I am not - all of the threads are engaged, just barely admittedly, but that counts in my eye. Any more threads/stud sticking out beyond that have no function other than being along for the ride.

At least that's my view, I am not an engineer in any formal sense. If I were to do the brakes on the rear end someday I am sure I'd probably find some slightly longer studs just because, but until then I'm comfortable.
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FYI - Regarding how many threads should "stick out" (protrude beyond the nut), common recommendations drawn from industry practices aligned with ASME standards and Machinist's Handbook-related calculations include:
  • Minimum protrusion: At least 1–3 full threads beyond the nut (often 2 as a standard).
  • Maximum protrusion: Preferably no more than 5 threads; do not exceed 10 to avoid waste, interference, or safety risks like snagging or injury.
  • Reasons:
    • Ensures full nut engagement on completely formed bolt threads (the first 1–2 threads on a bolt are often incomplete or chamfered, reducing strength if the nut stops there).
    • Provides visual confirmation during inspection that the bolt is fully through the nut without short-threading.
    • Excessive protrusion wastes material and can create hazards or clearance problems.
    • Insufficient protrusion risks reduced joint strength or failure under load.
Hope this helps.
 
It's been a minute or two since updating here, but I have been busy. Mostly with getting the new camper ready for Quartzsite in a month as well as installing heat in our shop (finally!). The last week or so I have finally gotten back on the truck getting it ready for the trip as well. I've also decided to not get the boxes powder coated until we get back as I just didn't have time to tear that all down. So some of the projects in no particular order:

Building version 4 of the temporary taillight mounts - I need to use the super hitch truss on this upcoming trip as we are flat towing one of my wife's Jeeps for the first time. So my hitch mounted temporary hack is out, and I am doing it the way I should have from the start. Again, this is going away once I get to do the tailboard. Pretty simple design cut out on the CNC Plasma from 14 gauge steel and then bent on the brake.

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A little paint and they mount up on the ends of the bolts from the super hitch.

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Much better and slightly less ridiculous looking. Should last until I do the permanent setup.

Next up, I need some rear mud flaps. They will go under the rear boxes and since they are relatively close to the ground I am going to mount them on large stainless piano hinges so they don't get wedged if they get dragged or I drop the air in the suspension. The hinges came with no holes, so that had to be done after cutting them to length and welding the pin in.

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The flaps themselves are from Duraflap to match the fronts and have an embedded stainless weight which has been powder coated black.

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Mounted to the boxes far enough back to clear the landing legs.

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I used some stainless steel sidewalk bolts to attach them - this gives the bolt a very big and low profile head to not get caught on things in the boxes.

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Lastly I picked up a set of Crossfires for the rear wheels. I wanted the stainless braided lines but didn't want to see them so much. Some thin heat shrink tube disguises them pretty well.

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It'll be interesting to see how that holds up. I should probably paint the bracket the valve is on too. Maybe the Centramatics as well but I kind of like seeing the silver behind the holes.

Beyond all that it's been minor things like oil changes, filter changes and chasing some small air leaks. We head out in early February and will be in Arizona for most of the month.
 
Do you have anything in front of the rear tires? I got into some mud, wet gravel roads last year and it was a mess under my bed and on my front under boxes. Your bed is a custom build so you probably won't have the same issues.
 
Bigboom338 said:
Do you have anything in front of the rear tires? I got into some mud, wet gravel roads last year and it was a mess under my bed and on my front under boxes. Your bed is a custom build so you probably won't have the same issues.
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On the driver's side the front box and a splash shield up above it. On the passenger side the tire carrier which has a bunch of fender/splash shields built into it.

The only thing I've considered is making a stubby flap or splash guard behind the passthroughs in the floor of the box where the electric and water comes out the bottom, just to keep some of the crap off of the rollers. So far it hasn't been an issue but I am keeping an eye on it.
 
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