Switch Pros

[Nksm89]

Two nuts holding it on. Access them from under the dash then it comes right off

Hey man, What size is the grommet? I see 1" to 3/8" daystar grommets on amazon is that the right one to use?

Thanks!

 

[Nksm89]

So the white wire should only be tied into the clearance light source, nothing else. So the backlighting will be full brightness when the clearance Lights are off/when there is no green parking light symbol on the instrument cluster (headlights knob in “auto” during broad daylight, or headlight knob in “O”), but then dimmed anytime the clearance Lights are on.

You should be able to check the dimming function by connecting the white wire to a known 12v power supply (ie directly to the battery)

I don’t remember anything about low volt/hi volt, I’ll have to open the app and look.

I’ve attached a picture of how mine is wired for reference.... maybe it will help you.

let me know if you need more help and I’ll see if I can assist.

Hey bro, how did you come up under the fuse box like that? Did you have to drill a hole?

 

[el_barto]

Hey man, What size is the grommet? I see 1" to 3/8" daystar grommets on amazon is that the right one to use?

Thanks!

I think that’s the one. On Amazon There were a ton of reviews with people showing them used on Rams

 

[el_barto]

Hey bro, how did you come up under the fuse box like that? Did you have to drill a hole?

I drilled a little hole in the side of the box

 

[2021Leveled]

As has been established, Power Wagon can’t be had with the Aux switches, unfortunately.
Rather than try to figure out how to retrofit the aux switches, I decided to take the “lazy” option, and got SwitchPros 9100 Module. I also got the SDHQ power module bracket which mounts between the PDC and the headlight. The SDHQ keypad mount kit was easy too, simply replaces the trim panel below the headlight switch. Could I have drilled the holes myself in my own panel, sure. But it made installation that much less of a headache.

I tapped the Clearance Lights fuse for the lights Trigger wire (dims keypad backlight), and tapped the fuse for “inverter wakeup module, rear usb, and wireless charger” for the ignition-on signal. I need to shorten those wires up a bit later, it’s a bit sloppy in the fuse panel still.

I needed a longer 4awg wire for the power supply, and one with a 5/16” hole for the HAPP stud... I ordered one from Amazon. The HAPP stud needs an M8x1.25
I used a Daystar firewall grommet thru the clutch block off plate to pass wires.

I used the RGB wheel in the app and was able to dial the color(it’s white with a bit of blue tone) and brightness in pretty spot on.

Next I need to start to connect accessories to it...first will be ARB compressor(it will go under rear seat) & the rock Lights. I don’t have reverse or a-pillar lights yet, but now I have an excuse to get them.

 

[2021Leveled]

I think that’s the one. On Amazon There were a ton of reviews with people showing them used on Rams

Hello , thanks for the post I mounted my controller in the same spot. I had a question, when you said you tapped the clearance lights for the white wire (dimming) did you mean you used a fuse tapp? On my truck it’s fuse 79. I’m looking for a spot for the lights wire, I really do not want to use a T and go into the harness. Thank you

 

[2021Leveled]

Hey dude, can you help me with the auto dimming trigger wire? I have it wired into the “clearance light” using an add a fuse but when I hit the lights, nothing happens. I made sure the trigger is “on” in the app and also tried high and low volt settings. Also made sure the trigger wire was getting power. Which it is. Tried reaching out to switch pro and they weren’t very much help and didn’t explain to me anything more than what the instructions say which I’ve followed directly for the install. Any help is appreciated.

Hey fellas thanks for all your info I’m going through some similar issues my self . My truck does not have clearance lights up on top of the cab but I did notice that I have a fuse for it in the fuse box . Do you think I can use a fuse tap just like you two did a it would work?

 

[Robtheelder]

I used an add a circuit to one of the ignition switched fuses It's been working fine for a year. No issues.

 

[Ramster3000]

So the white wire should only be tied into the clearance light source, nothing else. So the backlighting will be full brightness when the clearance Lights are off/when there is no green parking light symbol on the instrument cluster (headlights knob in “auto” during broad daylight, or headlight knob in “O”), but then dimmed anytime the clearance Lights are on.

You should be able to check the dimming function by connecting the white wire to a known 12v power supply (ie directly to the battery)

I don’t remember anything about low volt/hi volt, I’ll have to open the app and look.

I’ve attached a picture of how mine is wired for reference.... maybe it will help you.

let me know if you need more help and I’ll see if I can assist.

Getting ready to do my install. I have extra fuse taps. Looks like I’ll be able to follow the Same path you did. Im doing the @NHOverland sunglasses mount and fuse panel mount.

So far im doing :

plow switch

baja 20” ONX6+ amber in bumper cut out

Pillar mount BD LP4 pro amber

Baja S2 back up lights work/scene

fire wire led’s hazard lights ( already have had on a diff truck. )

Noob question as far as amps go. The 20” bar says it’s 16.6a . After looking at the SP amp loads should I hook the bar up to a 20a switch (1-4) or one of the 35a switches with both wires tied together? I feel like the 17a one wire would be to close to the working load?
Everything else besides the 20” bar is very low amperage.

 

[Ramster3000]

Update! Got the NH Overland bracket with pre term kit mounted and wire ran into cab. For those of you with a plow on your truck ….. this kit will fit (at least with a Boss plow config). It was TIGHT. If I had to do it all over again It prob would have been better to do the other mount closer to the steering wheel fuse box. Luckily Im not a plow contractor so the chances of that solenoid going bad arent to bad. It would mildly suck to have to mess with that . I had to get real creative with routing wires to fit all of this in there. The whole “10lbs of S%#$ in a 5lb bag” applied here. I could have routed the power line a little differently but truck is a lease and it will have to come off in the future anyway….

Also, I was able to run the keypad End of the wire through the pass through grommet without taking any of the ends off. There was enough room to squeeze it through. At least on my truck.
24’ 3500 laramie loaded night edition.