So, do I see it correctly that you are using the offset to move the hitch FORWARD the 4"? Is this to eliminate the bounce you're talking about? I have a PullRite Superlite and it similarly moves the pivot point back behind the axle. Its my first fifth wheel and I hate the bounce but thought it was normal.
How is your turn radius without the offset on your short bed? Maybe I should look at rearranging my hitch to bring the pivot forward since I think the PullRite has adjustment built into it.
Yes, jpaeth, you see that right. I could have turned the Andersen hitch 180 degrees and used the 5” offset that is built into the hitch, but that would have moved the ball forward 10” and I thought that would be too much. So I settled for the 4” change and that did make a notable difference in the amount of front end bounce. B&W does sell a 4” offset, but I had the ability to make one and I like to make stuff, so I made it myself to my own standards. I don’t always trust the quality of some of the mass produced items, but B&W isn’t one of the companies that cuts corners when it comes to built in quality.
As far as making sharp turns, I have always tried to avoid excessive turning because it is so hard on the suspension, wheels and tires. I have seen the photos of broken tire belts, cracked wheels and broken or cracked suspension components and I think most of that is caused by sharp turns. I have been able to drive or back into some really tight spots without making tight turns, but I still keep a close eye on clearance between the cab and the front of the fifth wheel RV. If your trailer front has rounded corners, then I would make some adjustments to the hitch to decrease or eliminate the bounce. You should still have plenty of cab clearance, but I would keep an eye on it when making tight maneuvers.
As long as we are on the subject of the ways a B&W gooseneck hitch can be used, I thought I would include a photo of how I have had my Andersen hitch attached to the goose ball for the past couple of years. Raising the Andersen hitch 2 1/2" has allowed me to move the ball down to the lowest hole which decreases the leverage distance between the top ball and the base of the aluminum frame. I replaced the original draw down bolt, because it didn't feel smooth to me and I didn't think it would last very long with a lot of use. I replaced it with a 16mm bolt which has a finer thread pitch and I replaced what was supposed to be the nut with a 2" long bronze nut I threaded to 16mm. I torque it down to 80 ft-lbs which you can not do with the original draw down bolt.
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