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Swap OEM Gooseneck Hitch for B&W Turnover Ball

BighornHDRam

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I saw in the video on page 2 that he installed the Turnover hitch into his factory 5th wheel prep on a 2021 truck but did not drill the 4 holes for the safety chains as he plans on using the factory puck setup. My question to all of you do you think it's necessary for the extra chain attachments or is the factory puck mount sufficient. I would rather not drill 4 extra holes in my bed with the 5th wheel prep group on my new 2022 if I don't have to.
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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I saw in the video on page 2 that he installed the Turnover hitch into his factory 5th wheel prep on a 2021 truck but did not drill the 4 holes for the safety chains as he plans on using the factory puck setup. My question to all of you do you think it's necessary for the extra chain attachments or is the factory puck mount sufficient. I would rather not drill 4 extra holes in my bed with the 5th wheel prep group on my new 2022 if I don't have to.
The oem pucks with the chain lugs will be far stronger than the B&W ones for sure if i remeber right the b&w ones are only 3/8 u bolts
 

BighornHDRam

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BighornHDRam

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I ordered up a BWGNRK1320 Turnoverball and Curt C60617 Curt Safety Chain Loops today for my on order 2022 3500 Bighorn with the factory 5th wheel prep from etrailer, They have FREE freight for another 11 hours for labor day on orders over $99 so I think it said I saved $78.17 if anyone is looking to save on freight at least.

 
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BighornHDRam

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With the BWGNRK1320 Turnoverball installed in the factory 5th wheel prep I have read I will need to slightly modify the locking handle bracket that comes out of the Center Section to use the oem vertical studs as the driver side front stud hits the bracket in stock form.

If anyone has any pics of this mod that would be great.
 
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Drumminguy81

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i just did this swap, it wasnt too difficult. did not have to lift the bed. The b&w bolts right up where the oem was. I did have to cut off the driver side front vertical bolt for the latch assembly to clear. it was a pain due to the location of it but i managed with a angle grinder. i did not drill holes for the chain hooks, i also ordered the oem curt puck mount hooks. the only disappointing part is the cheesy plastic cover wont fit in the bed to cover the hole but doesnt matter since i will have the ball installed most of the time anyway. if anyone needs an oem gooseneck bracket mine is for sale.
 

oscar

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FWIW....you can void the warranty on the FW and cause frame cracking using a gooseneck. I was a rep in the RV industry and know
There are (were) goose ball converters and there are "goose boxes". Depending on design the stresses on the FW are very different. Yes there were converters in the past that caused frame issue. Don't know how long ago you were in the business, but LCI has slobbered up Reese and their goose box is now approved by LCI. I know, shocking right? But, the design is very different from the converters of years ago. Then there is the GenY goose box. Now, LCI has not endorsed that, but that was AFTER GenY refused to grant LCI exclusive distributorship. Hmmmmm, so they wanted to sell it which must mean that the engineers signed off on it, but now that they can't sell it they won't endorse it. Meanwhile, they have not refused ONE warranty claim involving a GenY............ So I think that in regards to your warrantee warning both the Reese Goose Box and the GenY are pretty safe. And yes, they DO get rid of that hunk-o-metal in the back of your truck. I fully intend to install one of the two, probably the Gen-Y.
 
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H3LZSN1P3R

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There are (were) goose ball converters and there are "goose boxes". Depending on design the stresses on the FW are very different. Yes there were converters in the past that caused frame issue. Don't know how long ago you were in the business, but LCI has slobbered up Reese and their goose box is now approved by LCI. I know, shocking right? But, the design is very different from the converters of years ago. Then there is the GenY goose box. Now, LCI has not endorsed that, but that was AFTER GenY refused to grant LCI exclusive distributorship. Hmmmmm, so they wanted to sell it which must mean that the engineers signed off on it, but now that they can't sell it they won't endorse it. Meanwhile, they have not refused ONE warranty claim involving a GenY............ So I think that in regards to your warrantee warning both the Reese Goose Box and the GenY are pretty safe. And yes, they DO get rid of that hunk-o-metal in the back of your truck. I fully intend to install one of the two, probably the Gen-Y.
Your response to him is a waste of time he has not been on in about 6 months and he would not listen even if was still active lol
 

oscar

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Your response to him is a waste of time he has not been on in about 6 months and he would not listen even if was still active lol
Yeah but other people may get something out of it. If incorrect or outdated material is presented one needs to say something.
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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Yeah but other people may get something out of it. If incorrect or outdated material is presented one needs to say something.
No one is getting anything from it he has been proven wrong already lol and if you read back we all told him he was wrong
 

JLines

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FWIW....you can void the warranty on the FW and cause frame cracking using a gooseneck. I was a rep in the RV industry and know
The Reese GooseBox does not void the factory warranty for 5th wheels. It has been approved for use on 5th wheel frames.
 

oscar

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The Reese GooseBox does not void the factory warranty for 5th wheels. It has been approved for use on 5th wheel frames.
In fact LCI (the former "Lippert") who makes 95% of all frames now OWNS Reese.
 

Silverbeard

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That explains why reese is garbage now… good to know
Lippert does not own Reese. Reese is owned by a totally different company. Lippert does have a marketing agreement with Reese to be the exclusive distributor of the GooseBox.
 

oscar

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Lippert does not own Reese. Reese is owned by a totally different company. Lippert does have a marketing agreement with Reese to be the exclusive distributor of the GooseBox.
I sit corrected. The agreement you refer to was made in 2011. It appears Reese, and Draw Tite for that matter, are owned by Horizon Global, a company itself publicly traded since 2015 (HZN).
 

TXsportDiver

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i just did this swap, it wasnt too difficult. did not have to lift the bed. The b&w bolts right up where the oem was. I did have to cut off the driver side front vertical bolt for the latch assembly to clear. it was a pain due to the location of it but i managed with a angle grinder. i did not drill holes for the chain hooks, i also ordered the oem curt puck mount hooks. the only disappointing part is the cheesy plastic cover wont fit in the bed to cover the hole but doesnt matter since i will have the ball installed most of the time anyway. if anyone needs an oem gooseneck bracket mine is for sale.
I'm planning to make this swap. I haven't yet looked at the factory hitch setup. So, I'd like to confirm...
1. Is there room to/do you need to reach the top of the factory bolts for removal or installation?
2. After removing the factory hitch, are there essentially four dangling bolts you use to attach the B&W hitch?
3. You skip the B&W welded nut/plate "fastener blocks" altogether, right?

Thanks for your thoughts.
 

Drumminguy81

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I'm planning to make this swap. I haven't yet looked at the factory hitch setup. So, I'd like to confirm...
1. Is there room to/do you need to reach the top of the factory bolts for removal or installation?
2. After removing the factory hitch, are there essentially four dangling bolts you use to attach the B&W hitch?
3. You skip the B&W welded nut/plate "fastener blocks" altogether, right?

Thanks for your thoughts.

1.You do not need to access the top of the bolts, they will stay in place and have welded flanges to keep from rotating.
2. Correct. You remove and reuse the factory nuts, the bolts stay in place and dangle so to say.
3. Also correct. You do not need the supplied nut plates or bolts. I resold mine with my oem hitch.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

TXsportDiver

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1.You do not need to access the top of the bolts, they will stay in place and have welded flanges to keep from rotating.
2. Correct. You remove and reuse the factory nuts, the bolts stay in place and dangle so to say.
3. Also correct. You do not need the supplied nut plates or bolts. I resold mine with my oem hitch.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatal

1.You do not need to access the top of the bolts, they will stay in place and have welded flanges to keep from rotating.
2. Correct. You remove and reuse the factory nuts, the bolts stay in place and dangle so to say.
3. Also correct. You do not need the supplied nut plates or bolts. I resold mine with my oem hitch.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Thanks for your awesome reply. Happy haulin'
 

Herrred

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Thanks for your awesome reply. Happy haulin'
I had a shop do the swap for me and glad I did. I'm too old for this **** anymore. RAM used a ton of Loctite Red for the hardware. Not a whole lot of room to work or get power tools in there, less if you don't have a lift. If your doing it yourself, take your time, have patience and properly stretch and warm your muscles and joints before getting into the swap. Eat a power bar. Watch heavy metal videos or an action movie. Get mad at your old lady, the IRS, your boss or whatever gets your primevil anger blood pumping. Attack the bolts like they owe you money and punched your mom. Young kid at the shop who did the job said it was one of the most entertaining and toughest things he ever had to do. He took off the muffler and cut a wrench in half to make s stubby to free up room and change out the gear.

This is one of the best mods I have done. I kept the OEM anchor pucks and didn't install the cheap B&W "anchors", so no drilled holes in the bed. I'm using a pair of Curt anchors that cost me $60. Pulling a 15k 38ft FW with a Goosebox. I basically have an empty bed and with the 4" offset ball I have tons of clearance. when I'm done, I remove the turnover and anchors and put them under my rear seat. Heaviest thing I have to mess with when coupling/uncoupling is the case of beer for the trip.
 

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