So, here is my thought process: You better have tools and some form of good desire to fix your vehicles, therefore do NOT care much of getting your hands dirty. If I can do it, while I am NOT in any shape or form a mechanic, technician at all, then most like many of you out there can do the same. Buy a OBDll scanner and try to find at least what is wrong with your vehicle. The device (or at least mine) which should be fairly advanced, should be the gold mine that will probably save you a large amount of money, and most likely pay off while you save by not paying the dealerahip AND their exaggerated diagnosis fees of $220, before even they do anything to your car. Google the code and you will MOST likely find the “glitch”. Moreover, there are tons of YouTube vids getting into a lot of specifics of how you can fix that issue as I encounter myself in few occasions…aka, TurboActuator, Cleaning the EGR valve and EGR Cooler, for example, or exchanging the Solenoid and/or the Plate Valve of the 68RFE Automatic Transmission 4x4.. Thanks God I did not have to change the Solenoid and/or the Plate Vlave, since apparently the code went away while I exchanged the filters inside the transmission and the fluid of course, therefore the code never came back. I have to admit that the fluid was fairly dirty, but I would assume that 40,000 miles should have not been that bad while I don’t tow almost anything other than once in a blue moon my 5th wheel, just to move it out of its sitting spot/storage. Anyway, I did end up doing the other upper mentioned tasks, and it was not that bad after all bottom line. Yes, it took me 2 days while I was doing everything in a slow motion mode and carefully paying attention to details and put back all the screws as I photographed from where I got them, besides watching some of these mechanics dudes that explained in really much detail everything, and save you thousands, while doing yourself vs going at any dealerships. Changing the Turbo Actuator, you will probably run at about $2700+ most likely, and that is something pretty scary type of bill, I would say, just like that, one of a sudden, when you can do it yourself at around $1100 max, taxes included, while buying an aftermarket part, that are way better in my opinion than the OEM Holset, let alone that you will replace an item like Holset brand that will most likely last you way more than just another 50K to 85k miles in my opinion too, and in some instances, based of what I heard from other people too. My brand new 2017 Ram 2500HD got to 58K ish and that was it, therefore my Turbo Actuator already start showing signs of getting bed, giving me 3 codes immediately. The EGR Vlave and EGR Cooler in particular are a little more messy, but, I am pretty much sure a lot of you can do it, and boy, you will make yourself a favor by saving $1600+ in most instances, while they will need to change your CCV filter too which you can find it on line at around $75-$85 most likely too, basically the same as the Mopar ($180+ at the dealership), since I compare them side by side and these were made in China as far as I remember anyway, or you might have to pay at least $1000 if you lucky while going to a better priced mechanic. So, these maintenances are just a few that many of you might have run into I would assume, just like myself. Greasing your shaft, changing your water separator, engine diesel filter, engine oil and filter, transmission regular services, differential services, transfer case, or greasing the joints here and there for better functionality, including changing air engine filters and cabin air filters, etc… I do that all by myself and I saved thousands in the last 5 years of my ownership of my truck. Unfortunately, based of my needs and traveling distances for work plus vacationing, then I realize that I have to much of a truck that I don’t need due to such expenses, let alone that I do it myself as I mentioned here, but still, the diesel price it is not friendly anymore here in CA, bottom line, therefore it made perfect sense for me to sell my “baby”(aka truck) at this point in time. I was doing all of these maintenances for all my cars/mainly trucks for the last 35 years, while I owned more than 28 vehicles, out of which 5 trucks (4 Rams and 1 GMC).. Bottom line is that all the money that I paid for the tools over the years, then paid off really well too. I will say this, please don’t get discouraged about getting into such necessities or required maintenance, since is not that hard in the end. I would not recommend doing other thing/s more complicated if you don’t know what you are doing, such as rebuilding the transmission, or changing gaskets, pinions or gears, etc, into your transmissions or rods into your Cummins engine, etc, which that in itself requires a lot of knowledge I would say. I watch many people showing how to do it but I would rather have someone as a professional getting into that job, while you need special tools and knowledge of some torques/steps/order of such more complicated task, etc.. I did not have to do any of that since I did not have many miles on any of my trucks, or even towing regularly, but at some point in time I would have to probably need such “repairs”, I would assume too. Also, I would probably NOT buy any extended warranty at all since these are just a waste of money in my opinion, while you get to know the truth of such “scam” hypothetical and metaphorically speaking since when the time comes then you will be faces with other bills like, parts are covered by extended warranty, but the labor is not, or they will install in your truck “remanufactured” parts, like these dealership out there told me, including the Chrysler-Dodge themselves too, since my vehicle should have been covered by 100K warranty anyway, but in which controversy, the manufacturer refuse to fix my car saying that the Turbo Actuator it is NOT covered by the “Power-Train” warranty, etc…let alone your extended warranty too that cover mainly the power-train in my opinion.. That is what I call waste of money. The truck came with 100K Power Train Warranty, but for my surprise, they kept telling me that is NOT covered, which I considered a presumable “scam” too, since the Turbo-Actuator it is part of the engine, basically A required part of the engine in order to have your truck functioning or moving, and therefore “you” can’t tell me that is NOT covered. However, when I threatened the Chrysler-Dodge with legal action, then they said that as a courtesy then they will fix my truck, “but” only with providing the part (Holset) and then the rest of the bill it is my responsibility, which is crazy too and totally unacceptable, while they also said that they will provide ONLY remanufactured part bottom line anyway (meaning Holset Tutbo-Actuator).. Stuff like that though me over the years that I need to learn quick how to fix things and NOT get “dragged” into any extended warranty anymore due to so much small print or missing print while you agree to get such “extras” which are nothing but headaches when you truly need them. However, nothing I said here it is any mechanical advise or legal advice, therefore you do you, as you may find suitable for your financial circumstances or decisions including sicking any professional if need it. Good luck to anyone of you. Stay safe while driving!!
