Grid Heater Disconnect Codes

[Will_T]

Thought I would post this in its own thread just for clarity although it has been discussed/debated inside somewhat related posts before. This might make it easier for others wondering about this.

So, if you disconnect the grid heater relay and then always push twice to start, generally all will be fine. I disconnected my relay over a year ago for several months and that is how I always started the truck. The only time I got a CEL and codes was the one time I let the grid heater countdown complete.

I hooked the grid heater back up once I had the initial relay recall done. But when the repeat recall came out, I disconnected it again. It has been several more months and I have had no code or CEL. So, even though a few people here have said that you can still get the codes even with always pushing twice to start, I was not of the same opinion because of my experience. Then just this morning at 62 degrees F, even though I bypassed the countdown by pressing twice, I got a CEL and both the P2609 and P2509 codes, just like I did a year ago when I let the countdown expire. I am 100% positive I did not let the countdown complete, but the CEL came on within seconds or a minute of starting the truck. I hooked the heater relay back up and cleared the codes and the CEL light went off. So I guess that once in a great while with the heater relay disconnected, you can get the CEL even if you do not let the grid heater cycle complete.

This is a drag because I had planned to leave the grid heater disconnected permanently. I don't need it where I live and having it never run would also avoid the slim risk of the bolt burning off. If there is a way to have the GH disconnected and never get a CEL, I don't know of it. IF the Banks solution was about 1/2 the price I might consider that. I know that no damage is done by having the codes trip once in a great while. Just clearing the codes and hooking the GH back up for a few start cycles seems to work just fine to get everything reset. But especially when on the road in the middle of nowhere with my TT, like I am now, I REALLY do not like the feeling I get when that CEL comes on. The time from it triggering until I can stop and use my iDash to determine it is only the GH and not some crippling emission sensor problem is not a good feeling.

Probably what I will do is have the GH connected when traveling but then disconnect it when at home and just around town. But what a frustrating pain it is to have a 75K truck and have to worry about such garbage like the relay catching fire or the bolt dropping into the engine.

 

[CdnHO]

I agree. I let mine count down accidently and it set a CEL. Cleared it and paid more attention to it since. Not sure I will connect the battery to the relay, even after the relay is replaced under this latest recall. After the first recall, not sure if I trust the egineers running this show.

 

[Will_T]

I agree. I let mine count down accidently and it set a CEL. Cleared it and paid more attention to it since. Not sure I will connect the battery to the relay, even after the relay is replaced under this latest recall. After the first recall, not sure if I trust the egineers running this show.

Yeah. But the reason I made this thread is because I am absolutely sure I did not accidentally let it count down this time. I started it before the countdown finished like I always do now. And it still set the code. So my point is that it does not seem to be 100%. Still, I may go the route you are thinking also. It is frustrating to get the code and have to worry about what it is until you can actually diagnose it. But so far it seems to be a pretty simple and sure process to clear it and get things working correctly again. It does seem odd that simply clearing the code doesn't work though. For me I had to clear the code with the grid heater reconnected. And even then it was two or three restarts before the CEL went away.

 

[diesel_driver_3500]

Yeah. But the reason I made this thread is because I am absolutely sure I did not accidentally let it count down this time. I started it before the countdown finished like I always do now. And it still set the code. So my point is that it does not seem to be 100%. Still, I may go the route you are thinking also. It is frustrating to get the code and have to worry about what it is until you can actually diagnose it. But so far it seems to be a pretty simple and sure process to clear it and get things working correctly again. It does seem odd that simply clearing the code doesn't work though. For me I had to clear the code with the grid heater reconnected. And even then it was two or three restarts before the CEL went away.

I have only had a code set once for the disconnected relay. I simply cleared it with my iDash while the relay was still disconnected. Quick and easy.

My relay has been disconnected since the first recall was announced for my 2021. I have always used the double tap method for starting and when the code set, it felt like I was pushing the start button with fat fingers. In other words, it wasn't a smooth double tap. I have used residential alarm systems that are very sensitive to the rhythm of the button presses. Even a slight delay between characters would render the code un-recognized. I wonder if the double tap method of starting is sensitive to this as well?

 

[Will_T]

I have only had a code set once for the disconnected relay. I simply cleared it with my iDash while the relay was still disconnected. Quick and easy.

My relay has been disconnected since the first recall was announced for my 2021. I have always used the double tap method for starting and when the code set, it felt like I was pushing the start button with fat fingers. In other words, it wasn't a smooth double tap. I have used residential alarm systems that are very sensitive to the rhythm of the button presses. Even a slight delay between characters would render the code un-recognized. I wonder if the double tap method of starting is sensitive to this as well?

That is a very interesting observation. This time I tapped it once and then realized I did not tap it a second time right away. I then did but there was an unusual time space between the taps. It did start before the end of the countdown, but it was not my usual smooth double tap.

Interesting that yours cleared that easily. I did like you did twice but both times the iDash said it cleared but then the codes were still there when I rechecked. So I turned off the engine and reconnected the GH. Then cleared the code again and it was gone. But the CEL still was on and did not go off until I had turned off and restarted the truck at least a couple of times.

The reason the codes did not clear for me at first may be that I did it with the truck running. Now I seem to remember that the engine must be off when clearing codes?

 

[diesel_driver_3500]

The engine does need to be shut down before clearing the codes.

 

[AH64ID]

Mine has set the P2609 three times since disconnecting the relay.

I cannot figure out what causes it. The wife was letting the WTS countdown complete, and that’s how it set twice but it didn’t set every time the countdown completed.

It’s also set with a quick double press.

No real rhyme or reason to it, at least that I can determine.

You don’t have to hook the relay back up to clear the codes, but the engine does have to be off.

 

[Will_T]

Mine has set the P2609 three times since disconnecting the relay.

I cannot figure out what causes it. The wife was letting the WTS countdown complete, and that’s how it set twice but it didn’t set every time the countdown completed.

It’s also set with a quick double press.

No real rhyme or reason to it, at least that I can determine.

You don’t have to hook the relay back up to clear the codes, but the engine does have to be off.

I know one of the codes said some kind of "intermittent" electrical exception, so whatever it detects as "intermittent"? Also I would have expected the CEL to go off as soon as the codes were cleared. But I cleared my codes, then restarted and drove several blocks back to our daughter's house and it was still on. So I shut down and restarted a couple times before it went off

 

[mitchblankenship42]

Mine has set the P2609 three times since disconnecting the relay.

I cannot figure out what causes it. The wife was letting the WTS countdown complete, and that’s how it set twice but it didn’t set every time the countdown completed.

It’s also set with a quick double press.

No real rhyme or reason to it, at least that I can determine.

You don’t have to hook the relay back up to clear the codes, but the engine does have to be off.

Do you know if there is an aftermarket grid heater that could be installed at the intake end of the manifold horn without removing the OEM grid plate, fuel rails, etc.. so that the killer bolt could be eliminated?

 

[AH64ID]

Do you know if there is an aftermarket grid heater that could be installed at the intake end of the manifold horn without removing the OEM grid plate, fuel rails, etc.. so that the killer bolt could be eliminated?

GDP has a universal inline heater you could install.

 

[diesel_driver_3500]

There is no way to remove the bolt without dissembling everything. I'm trying to figure out if it's possible to remove the intake plate without removing the fuel rail and lines. If so, I'm going to install the Banks system. I don't see that as a perfect solution, but it is much better then the stock setup.

 

[flan]

I haven’t seen one apart, but can someone install a graded bolt with something like a nylock or mechanical lock nut to prevent this issue?

https://www.fastenal.com/product/Fasteners/Nuts/Lock%20Nuts?productFamilyId=26217&categoryId=600081

 

[diesel_driver_3500]

The bolt actually melts. I don't think grade would matter much. A nylock nut would melt and loosen very quickly.

My grid heater relay was disconnected after about 8000 miles and 5-1/2 months of use. The "jiggle" test shows that it never loosened up during use. I doubt that simple vibration will cause any problems, so I'm good to go as long as I do not re-connect the relay. However, I probably will purchase the Banks system and install it sometime down the line. Except that new relay...

I'm still not convinced that the newest relay will solve the problem with fire, so even installing the Banks system and using its grid heater element might still leave you open to a catastrophic failure.

At least an engine failure won't burn down your house!

 

[Brutal_HO]

The codes get set because the PCM doesn't detect an expected current draw when the heater is commanded.

This was well documented by a member over on cumminsforum a few years ago and the only surefire way to prevent it is with a tune or a dummy load.

 

[mitchblankenship42]

GDP has a universal inline heater you could install.

Thanks
I viewed the universal and one made for a 2018 intake horn. I'm asking GDP if the 2018 will fit a 2022??? The cost is approx.$500.

 

[mitchblankenship42]

There is no way to remove the bolt without dissembling everything. I'm trying to figure out if it's possible to remove the intake plate without removing the fuel rail and lines. If so, I'm going to install the Banks system. I don't see that as a perfect solution, but it is much better then the stock setup.

Please let us know how that works out for you.
I was just wondering about disconnecting the OEM grid bolt electrical cable, leaving the OEM grid heater in place. and running the GDP in line heater for a quick fix. Kinda thinking I should just go ahead with the banks setup.

 

[BlueOx2500]

Newbie overall here...can someone explain how you clear codes?

What is the "Banks setup"?

I've had my grid heater disconnected from the battery for probably 1000-1500 miles now and no codes. When the engine is cold, I double-tap. When I know it's warm I don't - because it seemed to start poorly is warm and double-tapped. A friend told me it's probably because of vaporized fuel when it's warm and I should just hit the button once giving the fuel pump time to prime the line. Overall stupid problem for a $100k truck.

 

[mitchblankenship42]

Newbie overall here...can someone explain how you clear codes?

What is the "Banks setup"?

I've had my grid heater disconnected from the battery for probably 1000-1500 miles now and no codes. When the engine is cold, I double-tap. When I know it's warm I don't - because it seemed to start poorly is warm and double-tapped. A friend told me it's probably because of vaporized fuel when it's warm and I should just hit the button once giving the fuel pump time to prime the line. Overall stupid problem for a $100k truck.

Banks manufactures a compliant intake horn for performance and intake heater grid relocate to eliminate the killer bolt issue. There are several threads on this forum that are discussing this.

 

[senecagreen]

The bolt actually melts. I don't think grade would matter much. A nylock nut would melt and loosen very quickly.

My grid heater relay was disconnected after about 8000 miles and 5-1/2 months of use. The "jiggle" test shows that it never loosened up during use. I doubt that simple vibration will cause any problems, so I'm good to go as long as I do not re-connect the relay. However, I probably will purchase the Banks system and install it sometime down the line. Except that new relay...

I'm still not convinced that the newest relay will solve the problem with fire, so even installing the Banks system and using its grid heater element might still leave you open to a catastrophic failure.

At least an engine failure won't burn down your house!

What I have seen at work in regards to bolts and vibration is that when the nut loosens (and RAM has a flat spot on the bolt so the nut won't unscrew all the way and fall off) the bracket the bolt is in will slowly saw thru the bolt until it cuts all the way thru. Thats why the wiggle test gives peace of mind. Once you notice it wiggle you have a fair amount of time before it cuts all the way thru.

That is the time to take it apart and replace it. To me this is the only weak point in these engines and as long as you check it regularly you should have peace of mind for many years.

I dont believe it is arcing thru the bolt. In my workplace it takes a long time for the bracket to cut thru the bolt because of vibration and we run 24/7/365

If someone has a close up picture of a failed bolt please post it.

Thanks

 

[Jimmy07]

What I have seen at work in regards to bolts and vibration is that when the nut loosens (and RAM has a flat spot on the bolt so the nut won't unscrew all the way and fall off) the bracket the bolt is in will slowly saw thru the bolt until it cuts all the way thru. Thats why the wiggle test gives peace of mind. Once you notice it wiggle you have a fair amount of time before it cuts all the way thru.

That is the time to take it apart and replace it. To me this is the only weak point in these engines and as long as you check it regularly you should have peace of mind for many years.

I dont believe it is arcing thru the bolt. In my workplace it takes a long time for the bracket to cut thru the bolt because of vibration and we run 24/7/365

If someone has a close up picture of a failed bolt please post it.

Thanks

Here’s a couple pics of two that are in the process of melting apart, and a couple of one that dropped. This is clearly not a case of the bracket slowly cutting through the bolt.