ATS transmission thermal bypass valve

[AH64ID]

Of course you have the data backing your claim....post it up or leave the conversation to those of us with experience with the part in question....in your spare time you could write all the companies that make these and tell them how they are destroying trucks.....just a suggestion....

What’s the point? You’re blindly defending your purchase with data that shows why they are pointless. I don’t have to do anything but let you “prove” how good they are. It’s way too easy.

Got it, you fell for marketing and spent the money on something that wasn’t needed. That doesn’t mean everyone else has to follow in your footsteps.

Didn't think so....

We already know you don’t think for yourself, and just go off marketing hype. But thanks for clarifying that, again.

Reminds me of all the FASS/AD hype around 2008-2010… guys that bought them swore they were the best thing ever, better than stock. All one had to do was pull up the specs on their filters and compare it to stock to realize that the filtration and water separation ratings were inferior to stock, by quite a bit. Good luck getting someone who spend the money on one to admit to that thou.

 

[IndyRamMega]

What’s the point? You’re blindly defending your purchase with data that shows why they are pointless. I don’t have to do anything but let you “prove” how good they are. It’s way too easy.

Got it, you fell for marketing and spent the money on something that wasn’t needed. That doesn’t mean everyone else has to follow in your footsteps.



We already know you don’t think for yourself, and just go off marketing hype. But thanks for clarifying that, again.

Again....you have no clue...more yammering from the oem is best toolbox as usual....do yourself a favor and call revmax or ats on Tuesday after the holiday weekend and asked them about the temps...then jump back in a little more informed and let us know what they said....I bet you'll be surprised....

 

[jetrinka]

As @AH64ID said at those temps the t-stat is wide open and flowing - you aren't going to see cooler temps from any kind of bypass or by removing it. If you're wanting to keep your temps down in that scenario the OP needs to start looking at a larger cooler, deeper pan/pan with cooling fins (if they exist), synthetic fluid options and perhaps an electric fan setup you can manually command.

His point about downshifting to 1st during low speed operation is also very valid (and right in the manual...)

 

[John Jensen]

It’s pretty easy given the proper conditions. Do some towing under 20 mph where the torque converter doesn’t lock. It’ll get to 180° very easily, even 200° if you’re not ERS in 1st.

Stop and go does the same thing.

Once the torque converter is locked they cool down and hold 165-167° all day.

Gotcha.
I'm tuned so my torque converter is always locked, I don't think it unlocks below 20mph but I really don't know. Now that you raise the point I'll find out. Plus I think I can monitor it with my CTS3. I've been in serious and lengthy stop and go in San Diego, LA and Sacramento during rush hour and my temps did not rise, so I suspect the converter is always locked by the tunes.

 

[Brutal_HO]

Again....you have no clue...more yammering from the oem is best toolbox as usual....do yourself a favor and call revmax or ats on Tuesday after the holiday weekend and asked them about the temps...then jump back in a little more informed and let us know what they said....I bet you'll be surprised....

Just don't ask ATS for support on one of their sh*tty built transmissions. Crickets.

 

[jetrinka]

Gotcha.
I'm tuned so my torque converter is always locked, I don't think it unlocks below 20mph but I really don't know. Now that you raise the point I'll find out. Plus I think I can monitor it with my CTS3. I've been in serious and lengthy stop and go in San Diego, LA and Sacramento during rush hour and my temps did not rise, so I suspect the converter is always locked by the tunes.

It’s gotta be unlocked during idle and during acceleration from a stop. I’ve seen torque converters that don’t unlock drag the engine to a stop when halting the vehicle like a manual trans would without pushing the clutch pedal in.

 

[Brutal_HO]

Gotcha.
I'm tuned so my torque converter is always locked, I don't think it unlocks below 20mph but I really don't know. Now that you raise the point I'll find out. Plus I think I can monitor it with my CTS3. I've been in serious and lengthy stop and go in San Diego, LA and Sacramento during rush hour and my temps did not rise, so I suspect the converter is always locked by the tunes.

We all know there's no Aisin shift schedule tuning, but is there TC lockup control in the tune?

If it does, I'd like to know if they are locking it in 1st gear and down to what speed/RPM?

P.S. What @jetrinka said, can't be locked at idle in gear.

 

[John Jensen]

We all know there's no Aisin shift schedule tuning, but is there TC lockup control in the tune?

If it does, I'd like to know if they are locking it in 1st gear and down to what speed/RPM?

P.S. What @jetrinka said, can't be locked at idle in gear.

Brutal,
I may have had another brain fart. I'm in Maui with my three daughters and they wear me out.
I was reporting on my 2020 HO but thinking about the locked converter on my 2016 Eco's tune.
So put everything aside that I said about converter lockup as it's irrelevant.
But it has my attention, I know the Aisin cannot be accessed for tuning but wonder about the TC loclup.
Going to call Calibrated tomorrow, will report back.
Soon to be 90 years old I need to double check myself, sorry for the confusion.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

There is no tuning for the aisin so any lockup is OEM the tuning usually only has the 68rfe locked in 2nd and above i have never heard of any company locking up the TC in first.

ATS is trash for just about everything so using them as a reference is laughable.

The bypass block does have a tiny advantage over a wide open t stat as there is a little bit more flow from less restrictions but its almost nothing to speak of. The reason you see cooler temps is the trans cant build the minimum heat required for proper operation so the increased heat will be less thats a given. Without hitting minimum operating temps you can and will see clutch failures earlier on than a stock trans would see.

 

[Riddick]

The main reason I would consider replacing the factory piece is if they were constantly failing in the closed position. I know the aftermarket companies say the factory one is prone to failing but I have not seen evidence supporting this. The purpose of thermostats for the engine and transmission is to get them up to "desired operating temp" as quickly as possible. This will limit the wear on components and allow our engines and transmissions to operate in the max efficiency range. Operating above and below these ranges will decrease both efficiency and durability of components.

The second reason I would consider replacing the factory thermostat is if your transmission is running hot. From what I have seen RAM has temps dialed in on both of their transmissions, look up how warm the 10 speeds from GM and Ford run for comparison. I have never seen over 180 but I dont tow heavy either. Either way, temps are well within range and I do not see a need to delete the thermostat at this time.

There are situations in which I would recommend the transmission bypass but it only effects about 1% of all users. For people heavily into sled pulling, drag racing or making huge power there are benefits. However, 98% of us use these trucks on the street where we are focused on durability and efficiency. Outside of max effort builds stick with the OEM pieces.

 

[Firebird]

My 68RFE has never been above 170° towing, and that's in the hot south. However, I've never pulled the Rocky Mountains

 

[IndyRamMega]

Still waiting for somebody to post up the minimum operating temp.....

 

[jetrinka]

AT Fluid Level Check (No Dipstick)

Application/Qualifier

Procedure

AS69RC​

Start engine and apply parking brake. Shift the transmission into DRIVE for approximately 2 seconds Shift the transmission into REVERSE for approximately 2 seconds. Shift the transmission into PARK. Connect the scan tool and select transmission. Select sensors. Read the transmission temp. value. Compare the oil temperature value with the levels. Tool has indicator marks every 10mm. Oil level varies by temperature: at 158°F, 81mm - 102mm; at 176°F, 86mm - 105mm; at 194°F, 91mm - 109mm. Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the dipstick according to the transmission fluid temp. levels. After adding any fluid to the transmission, wait a minimum of 2 minutes for the oil to fully drain from the fill tube into the transmission before rechecking the fluid level. Check transmission for leaks. The engine and transmission should be at normal operating temperature before performing this procedure. Optimum fluid temperature for checking the level should be between 70°C (158°F) and 80°C ( 176°F).​

Indicates to me the thermal block starts opening at 158 degrees - you want it to begin circulating to get an accurate fluid level so I'd say 158 is the minimum operating temp.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Still waiting for somebody to post up the minimum operating temp.....

As stated 158°f is the proper operating temp.