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1996 Dodge Ram 2500

error918

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have a 1996 Dodge Ram Magnum 2500 it has the 8.0 V10, 149,000
I have these codes

P0743
P1762
P0152
P0500



I purchased this few months ago starting out in 2nd, and he said it always shut back off after it started, I never had that issue, so I get a rebuilt valve body for the 47RE, think they sent a salvaged one that’s been power washed but anywho, it’s installed... now it seems to need the TV cable adjustment?? I did what I could but I am sure I need to play with it more to fine tune it, but inside the transmission, there is the adjustment for the valve that the tv cable pulls and pushes in and out ... and then outside ( the cable) is it necessary to adjust both ?? And the solenoid issue, I was advised to get the GM version but I am not sure what that part or item may be found at, also the ABS light is on and I replaced the rear sensor On the shaft so many times it doesn’t go away; is that something that has to be manually deleted with scan tool or would it go away on it own if fixed ?? so with that said, I shall pull the pan off again and replace them again or is there something else or a adjustment I need to start with ?? It does seem to shift and drive I had it on highway and city driving, highway 60 mph the RPMs were around 2800 if I re call , no high rpm that would scare someone, but yet it still seems it starts in 2nd, or just like the brake is on lightly, but then it goes towards the end of the gear and shifts to its next .. but that could just be the TV cable needing more adjustment I am told ... oh and now the speed odometer kinda quit; it’s trying to work but it’s not ... so abs light on, feels it’s starting in 2nd after replaced valve body with new solenoids from Amazon ( that may be my issue too lol) speed odometer not working... I read there are many issues with this and I am new to dodge so any help is very much appreciated.
 

DevilDodge

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My V10 has a manual 5spd attached too it. It seems you are having a few different issues.

I will take a look at the info you gave and see if I can be any help.
 

6.7cumminsman

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I am a new member as well but I actually own a 98 2nd gen 2500 with the cummins/47re combo with 230k original miles on everything. My transmission is acting up in a similar fashion to what you described and the local mechanic I use here in east Tennessee told me it could be something to do with the cable. Long story short, it wasn't the cable it was something else because it won't even shift out of second gear anymore. My mechanic told me he could rebuild it for 4500 which seems really steep in price. I found this article on remanufactured transmissions vs. rebuilt ones and I didn't even know there was a difference. Do ya'll think this is accurate info? https://5fa06d83b9d6f.site123.me/blog/47re-transmission If so I may just try to find a good remanufactured 47re somewhere
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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I am a new member as well but I actually own a 98 2nd gen 2500 with the cummins/47re combo with 230k original miles on everything. My transmission is acting up in a similar fashion to what you described and the local mechanic I use here in east Tennessee told me it could be something to do with the cable. Long story short, it wasn't the cable it was something else because it won't even shift out of second gear anymore. My mechanic told me he could rebuild it for 4500 which seems really steep in price. I found this article on remanufactured transmissions vs. rebuilt ones and I didn't even know there was a difference. Do ya'll think this is accurate info? https://5fa06d83b9d6f.site123.me/blog/47re-transmission If so I may just try to find a good remanufactured 47re somewhere
Im assuming he is planning on building the trans not a stock rebuild because a stock rebuild is 1800$ average for 4500$ you can drop an ats decently built trans and be much better off
 

Brutal_HO

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I am a new member as well but I actually own a 98 2nd gen 2500 with the cummins/47re combo with 230k original miles on everything. My transmission is acting up in a similar fashion to what you described and the local mechanic I use here in east Tennessee told me it could be something to do with the cable. Long story short, it wasn't the cable it was something else because it won't even shift out of second gear anymore. My mechanic told me he could rebuild it for 4500 which seems really steep in price. I found this article on remanufactured transmissions vs. rebuilt ones and I didn't even know there was a difference. Do ya'll think this is accurate info? https://5fa06d83b9d6f.site123.me/blog/47re-transmission If so I may just try to find a good remanufactured 47re somewhere

Will he warranty the trans and labor?

Where are you located?

There's several good builders and you could just pay labor to install.

Im assuming he is planning on building the trans not a stock rebuild because a stock rebuild is 1800$ average for 4500$ you can drop an ats decently built trans and be much better off

Agree, 4500 is built for HP money.

Stolen from elsewhere: About $3K for parts if DIY.

A good single converter can hold 500-550HP and is under $500
if you go with a triple for $900 you should do the billet input shaft ($650)
HD flex plate is about $125

Valvebody mods vary or you can get a full VB $400-750
Performance rebuild kit with the extra clutches and steels is $500-600


 

whitexc

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I have the receipt from the previous owner that had my transmission re"built". It says it was just over $5k. This includes a triple disc convertor, upgraded clutch packs, valve body work, etc. This was done by a somewhat local outfit. When I bought the truck I actually took it back and had the valve body work reversed so it softened up the shifts some......wasn't looking to chirp the 305's between gears.

Have a buddy building a Powerstroke right now and he paid about the same for a built unit that he ordered from the internet. Not sure of the builder but he has to ship his core out I believe. Makes sense.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

6.7cumminsman

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Will he warranty the trans and labor?

Where are you located?

There's several good builders and you could just pay labor to install.



Agree, 4500 is built for HP money.

Stolen from elsewhere: About $3K for parts if DIY.

A good single converter can hold 500-550HP and is under $500
if you go with a triple for $900 you should do the billet input shaft ($650)
HD flex plate is about $125

Valvebody mods vary or you can get a full VB $400-750
Performance rebuild kit with the extra clutches and steels is $500-600


Thanks for the direction. The mechanic I went too priced me a basic rebuild but with an upgraded torque converter... Still seems like he is way too high I'm going to look around at some of these other shops. I'm not really mechanically inclined, I just use the truck for work and to pull my pontoon in the summer so I don't need a big HP upgrade or anything
 

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