Honking - chirping - 3 three horn beeps honks chirps - when I leave my vehicle - merged threads

[Jimmy07]

I emailed them it doesn’t work with Uconnect5 but they apparently are working on it. They did not provide me with a date.

As long as they verify that the kill 3 honk feature is loaded on the Tazer Ram model, that particular feature will work on the truck regardless of the UC5 issues. The only features they are having trouble with as far as using the tazer with UC5 are features that directly have to do with the radio screen, such as the camera and nav features.
I sold them a UC5 screen back in June, so I would think they have to be getting close with those features.

 

[kanabram]

New to this thread but not to the issue. Agree, it is very annoying. I got from reading a few posts that this CAN NOT be adjusted through UConnect. To save time from sifting through 14 pages of posts, does anyone know if this can be adjusted using the AlphaOBD app.?

Thanks

 

[TxRam]

Idea I don’t know if it’s possible but what gets programmed to the fobs. Is it all fob features or nothing or is it possible to only program for truck to recognize there is a key but have the other buttons not work or even have start stop not work with said key fob.

Idea is have a dummy fob you just stash in the truck that is basically useless but will allow truck to recognize a fob is present. ??? Is this possible?

Open up a fob, desolder buttons, and you'll have a dead fob that is only good for starting. I don't think you can program a fob to exist solely as a "fob in vehicle". If a registered fob is there, the vehicle can be started.

New to this thread but not to the issue. Agree, it is very annoying. I got from reading a few posts that this CAN NOT be adjusted through UConnect. To save time from sifting through 14 pages of posts, does anyone know if this can be adjusted using the AlphaOBD app.?

Thanks

No, AlphaOBD cannot correct the honking. A viable solution a few people have worked is to run the horn relay through a dash switch. Switch off, no horn; switch on, horn. Crude, but effective.

 

[kanabram]

No, AlphaOBD cannot correct the honking. A viable solution a few people have worked is to run the horn relay through a dash switch. Switch off, no horn; switch on, horn. Crude, but effective.

Thanks for the response. I have some unused dash switches and may repurpose one for this fix.

 

[mountainears]

Open up a fob, desolder buttons, and you'll have a dead fob that is only good for starting. I don't think you can program a fob to exist solely as a "fob in vehicle". If a registered fob is there, the vehicle can be started.

No, AlphaOBD cannot correct the honking. A viable solution a few people have worked is to run the horn relay through a dash switch. Switch off, no horn; switch on, horn. Crude, but effective.

I’m not near my truck to mess with this for a while but a couple thoughts / questions.

1- instead of switching the horn relay, could using the VSIM (for those that have it) be an option? Specifically in the brown connector, pin 13 is a horn mute.

2- continuing on the VSIM theme. Black connector , pin 2 is horn activation. Says that pin is +12v when horn is pressed. Would be interesting to know if during the 3 chirps that goes to +12v for each chirp or not. If no, might it be an option to re-route the horn to an air horn and just disconnect the factory horn?



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[p999999]

I found this thread almost a year ago when I purchased my truck. I'm rather disappointed that there still isn't a good solid way to disable the annoying 3 honks. I have a work around that I'd like to share, although it isn't the most elegant. This was something I did to my Chrysler Pacifica, when I used to have the van.

What I did was purchase this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HNDOCKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

along with the programmer switches:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0711M25K9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I spliced the timer into the horn wiring (required cutting unfortunately). When you press and hold the horn, it energizes the timer. The timer is programmed to not immediately power to the load (horn). This effectively bypasses quick chirps on the horn. The downside to this particular timer is that when you need to use the horn, it adds about a 1/4 second delay.
---
It looks like they sell an updated version of the timer that lets you program via your phone. I might give this a try, but I'm not sure how I feel about cutting into the wiring of my $80k truck

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083HN673G?psc=1&smid=A1YGHK4VRDPUC4&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

 

[mountainears]

OK, I’m back home and was able to test what I was thinking about and as a result I think I have a solution for those that have the VSIM module.

I misspoke in my previous post about which wire. It is actually pin 2 on the brown connector. I’ve attached a screen shot showing the doc for that wire. It will show 12v+ when the horn is pressed.

So today I plugged in a test light to that wire and sure enough, when you press the horn button you have 12v+.

I was suspecting that they have enough control in these computerized vehicles that it meant what it said, just when the horn is pressed.

So I forced the horn to go when I locked the doors (RKE) and when I left the fob outside the vehicle. No 12v+ in those situations.


So, if you don’t mind loosing other chirps of the horn, I’m assuming this would also include the security system, you could use this pin out to power your existing horn or just disconnect the existing horn and use an air horn. The end game is that you would also eliminate the three horn chirp.

An option at least, for some.


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[Brutal_HO]

FYI, VSIM can be added as a DIY, you just need to get the module and a harness setup (AfaOBD required to enable) from @Jimmy07.

 

[mountainears]

Good to know. May be a not so hard solution for those that want to stop this without having to introduce other switches.


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[Blythkd1]

OK, I’m back home and was able to test what I was thinking about and as a result I think I have a solution for those that have the VSIM module.

I misspoke in my previous post about which wire. It is actually pin 2 on the brown connector. I’ve attached a screen shot showing the doc for that wire. It will show 12v+ when the horn is pressed.

So today I plugged in a test light to that wire and sure enough, when you press the horn button you have 12v+.

I was suspecting that they have enough control in these computerized vehicles that it meant what it said, just when the horn is pressed.

So I forced the horn to go when I locked the doors (RKE) and when I left the fob outside the vehicle. No 12v+ in those situations.


So, if you don’t mind loosing other chirps of the horn, I’m assuming this would also include the security system, you could use this pin out to power your existing horn or just disconnect the existing horn and use an air horn. The end game is that you would also eliminate the three horn chirp.

An option at least, for some.


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So just for clarification, you're saying if you pull that particular wire you will lose the 3 horn chirp sequence? You still get the horn when hitting the center of the steering wheel or not? Also, I didn't see a screenshot.

I apologize if it's a dumb question. I'm a knuckle buster not an electrical/electronics whiz.

 

[mountainears]

So just for clarification, you're saying if you pull that particular wire you will lose the 3 horn chirp sequence? You still get the horn when hitting the center of the steering wheel or not? Also, I didn't see a screenshot.

I apologize if it's a dumb question. I'm a knuckle buster not an electrical/electronics whiz.

Thanks for reminding me about the screenshot.

If you have or add the VSIM you can use this wire for your horn. I see a couple options.
1- I’m not sure if this truck has a horn relay, maybe someone can confirm? I was having a difficult time identifying it in the fuse block. If so, run this wire to trigger the horn relay. Disconnect the factory trigger wire.
2- disconnect the factory horn (unplug at the horn) and use an air horn or secondary horn. Use this wire to trigger this new horn setups relay.

In either of these situations, you would have a working horn by pressing the steering wheel horn button. It would not do the 3-chirp or the door lock verification chirp (and likely not the panic alarm but I did not test that).

If someone can identify for me where the horn relay is on this truck I’ll take a stab at hooking things up this way and do a better write up.


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[Jimmy07]

Thanks for reminding me about the screenshot.

If you have or add the VSIM you can use this wire for your horn. I see a couple options.
1- I’m not sure if this truck has a horn relay, maybe someone can confirm? I was having a difficult time identifying it in the fuse block. If so, run this wire to trigger the horn relay. Disconnect the factory trigger wire.
2- disconnect the factory horn (unplug at the horn) and use an air horn or secondary horn. Use this wire to trigger this new horn setups relay.

In either of these situations, you would have a working horn by pressing the steering wheel horn button. It would not do the 3-chirp or the door lock verification chirp (and likely not the panic alarm but I did not test that).

If someone can identify for me where the horn relay is on this truck I’ll take a stab at hooking things up this way and do a better write up.


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Horn relay is on the fuse box PCB (not removable).
You would remove the dark green wire with white stripe from position 8 of the blue connector on the bottom of the fuse box.
Crimp a yazaki 7116-4780-02 terminal onto the output wire from the VSIM and insert it into position 8 of the blue connector.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yazaki/7116478002?qs=yqaQSyyJnNgF%2FJbl2N0DKA%3D%3D

 

[mountainears]

Horn relay is on the fuse box PCB (not removable).
You would remove the dark green wire with white stripe from position 8 of the blue connector on the bottom of the fuse box.
Crimp a yazaki 7116-4780-02 terminal onto the output wire from the VSIM and insert it into position 8 of the blue connector.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yazaki/7116478002?qs=yqaQSyyJnNgF%2FJbl2N0DKA%3D%3D

View attachment 45354

Thanks for this info. I’ll take a look at this, does the fuse box unscrew pretty easily to get access to the bottom?


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[Jimmy07]

Thanks for this info. I’ll take a look at this, does the fuse box unscrew pretty easily to get access to the bottom?


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No screws. There’s 4 release tabs around the perimeter that you depress, and lift the whole fuse box up.

 

[mountainears]

Perfect! I ordered the connector, will give this a go. Should be real easy, just run that wire through one of the pass through wires and extend that in the engine bay to the fuse panel. Unplug the one wire and plug in the other.

As far as I know all the horn functions would be:
- pressing the horn button
- 3 chirp when exiting
- RKE lock
- RKE Panic
- security alarm?

I’d like to test all the functions after to see what works and what doesn’t so if I’m missing something let me know. Not sure how to test the security one if that exists.


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[Jimmy07]

Perfect! I ordered the connector, will give this a go. Should be real easy, just run that wire through one of the pass through wires and extend that in the engine bay to the fuse panel. Unplug the one wire and plug in the other.

As far as I know all the horn functions would be:
- pressing the horn button
- 3 chirp when exiting
- RKE lock
- RKE Panic
- security alarm?

I’d like to test all the functions after to see what works and what doesn’t so if I’m missing something let me know. Not sure how to test the security one if that exists.


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The only function that will still work is pressing the horn.
All of the other horn features need to use the horn relay control circuit from the BCM, which will be removed.

 

[mountainears]

The only function that will still work is pressing the horn.
All of the other horn features need to use the horn relay control circuit from the BCM, which will be removed.

Yes. Figured that. Just wanted to make sure I knew what all the others were for an eventual write-up. So people will clearly know what they are disabling by doing this.

Plus, being an IT guy I like to validate the change after implementing


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[Brutal_HO]

Couldn't you just wire up an additional relay that's tied to an ignition triggered Aux switch (or simply an ignition source) so that only the horn push VSIM signal is hot to the horn relay when the truck is running?

 

[Misteroman]

Now that it looks like im going to keep my 22 limited i was just going to disconnect the horn.
My biggest thing is pulling up to a small store or restaurant(with people eating in front) and running in quickly with family still in the car, and the horn blaring so that everyone turns around and looks.
Absolutely hate it, and honestly, how often do you REALLY need to use your horn!
D

 

[mountainears]

Couldn't you just wire up an additional relay that's tied to an ignition triggered Aux switch (or simply an ignition source) so that only the horn push VSIM signal is hot to the horn relay when the truck is running?

I was thinking about popping a relay in to be able to switch back and forth but I like this idea better . Not sure if I’ll do it to a switch or just have it set to an ignition power. Thanks for that.


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