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Crusty's 75th Annv PW #1590 build/mods adventure

Ok, got the print out. But it's not what I saw on the machine.
It shows total toe at .2
And steer ahead toe at -.02.IMG_20240803_102151.jpg
 
Well with the bumper off and removing the bumper mount, found that I needed to modify my backing plate. Seems the bumper mount has a protrusion to reenforce the bumper and so I coukdnt get the backing plate in. So I just cut some of it off.
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So with that done, installed the mounting brackets and reinstalled the bumper.
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Next I got all the lights mounted. I had to mount them upside down as I didn't want to drill holes in my grill to clear the plugs/wiring. I don't think it really makes a difference. Other than the floods are on top and spots are on the bottom. If it doesent work, I'll look at flipping the lens first and see if it makes a difference.
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Covers off.
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Amber running lights. Logo is upside down.
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Floods.
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Floods and spots.
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And next was to tackle the wiring under the hood. I found this power fuse block on Amazon. Should work good.
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All buttoned up.
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Next/last project is to wire/mount the light switch panel in the cab. Then hook up power to the battery, install fuses, wait fir night time to adjust the lights.
 
So went to go to town yesterday. Noticed the new tires looked low, sides bulging out on the front tires.
I had them filled to 35F/30R which is where I normally run.
Checked pressure and yep, 35 PSI. So I bumped the front up to 38 PSI. Will see how they run.

I did take the twisty back road home and put it thru the paces. Tires did good. Had a little wash out here and there in the corners. But nothing uncontrollable. Granted I was doing about 20 MPH faster than the posted caution speed for the turns. :oops: :D

Will recheck everything after about 1K miles and see how they are wearing.
 
So I mounted the backing plate, then used a new sharp razor to cut out the center hole. Went easier than I thought.
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Used some lock time on the screws and mounted the front plate with the backer plate on the inside. Wasn't that hard to get the washers and nuts on the backside. Just the roof was hot and kept burning me.
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Wired up the switches and mounted them.
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Factory optioned off road lights. :)
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Hooked up the last couple of wires to the battery, installed the fuses, and we have lights.
 

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Crusty old shellback said:
So I mounted the backing plate, then used a new sharp razor to cut out the center hole. Went easier than I thought.
View attachment 75817View attachment 75818

Used some lock time on the screws and mounted the front plate with the backer plate on the inside. Wasn't that hard to get the washers and nuts on the backside. Just the roof was hot and kept burning me.
View attachment 75819

Wired up the switches and mounted them.
View attachment 75820

Factory optioned off road lights. :)
View attachment 75821

Hooked up the last couple of wires to the battery, installed the fuses, and we have lights.
Click to expand...
That looks awesome man

If you want to get all those rockers matching check out these people. They make custom ones, serious ones, silly ones etc

High quality OTRATTW Contura V laser-etched rockers

OTRATTW Contura V laser etched rockers are compatible with all Carling Technologies V-Series switches, including sPOD, Daystar, and Painless Performance
www.otrattw.net www.otrattw.net
 
Rockcrawlindude said:
That looks awesome man

If you want to get all those rockers matching check out these people. They make custom ones, serious ones, silly ones etc

High quality OTRATTW Contura V laser-etched rockers

OTRATTW Contura V laser etched rockers are compatible with all Carling Technologies V-Series switches, including sPOD, Daystar, and Painless Performance
www.otrattw.net www.otrattw.net
Click to expand...
Thanks. I was so nervous cutting into the overhead. But I think it came out fine. Best, most conventional place I could find to mount the switches. This was the most nerve racking of the whole install.
 
Metternacht said:
I would like to do the same thing but mount a switch pros or s-pod in that location.
Click to expand...
I didn't want to spend that much money. But it can be done.
I have about $800 total or less. That's lights, switches, relays, power block, wiring, black bolts, connectors, paint.

I'm not counting my time in there.
 
Crusty old shellback said:
I didn't want to spend that much money. But it can be done.
I have about $800 total or less. That's lights, switches, relays, power block, wiring, black bolts, connectors, paint.

I'm not counting my time in there.
Click to expand...
I am impressed. Question. Have you or anyone considered using cat5 or 6 wires for the switches to the relays. A single run with 4 pairs in each so eight wires. Up to 4 switches. I would think they could handle the voltage and be smaller and easier to run. Or am I missing something?
 
Ok,here we go.
In all pictures, the accent power wagon lights and amber running runing lights are on.

It was dark outside.
Base lights with Amber's.
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Inner 2 flood lights.
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All 4 flood lights.
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Inner floods and spots.
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All 4 floods and spots.
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I may adjust the outer lights to light up more to the side with the spots.
But they are super bright. I'll know more once I make a late night drive down the main road.
 
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