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What did you do TO your RAM today?

Ostracize said:
Oh and also powerstop Z36 pads and their Geomet rotors all 4 corners.
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How do you like these?

My truck, unfortunately with only 24k needs brakes. Calipers are all free but the back side of the stock (front) rotors are trashed. Pretty disappointed. I tow the 5er but have never been hard on them IMO and complained since new how lackluster the factory pedal was.

I have a Powerstop kit on my Subaru and they have treated us pretty well. They need to be warmed up before they really bite but that’s a known.


Sent from me
 
 
definitely pay attention to the wheel width as @Vdrsnk mentioned.

__” X 9” +18mm is pretty common and it fits about like that with a flare. If no flare they would stick out about an inch but with the flare they’re pretty flush. I have 18x9 +18 and bushwacker oem flares and they fit close to that. I don’t have any pics of the wheel mounted without tires.
 
dieselscout80 said:
Looks great :)

However, dude spill the beans on the install details.
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5thgenrams.com

Center Console Slider Swap (Rebel to Limited)

So, I had been eyeballing this as a possible modification for quite some time and was unsure if it was possible. I posed the question but no one really had an answer, so I just up and did it. I swapped the sliding center console cupholder/tray compartment in my Rebel for a Limited compartment...
5thgenrams.com 5thgenrams.com
 
I installed Covercraft Carhartt Super Dux PrecisionFit Custom Seat Covers. The install went smoothly, did not need instructions as you can figure out how to install them just by looking at them. It did take me a couple hours and I was sweating bullets in 90deg temps. I tested how water proof the material was by dripping sweat all over them. They fit well, not perfect but acceptable. The single hardest piece to install believe it or not was the console cover.
 

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Installed a Banks iDash DataMonster using the Stealth Pod. Install was super easy, especially with the provided flush cut tool. Now I'm having fun setting up the 5 different pages to customize as I like.
 

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whitexc said:
How do you like these?

My truck, unfortunately with only 24k needs brakes. Calipers are all free but the back side of the stock (front) rotors are trashed. Pretty disappointed. I tow the 5er but have never been hard on them IMO and complained since new how lackluster the factory pedal was.

I have a Powerstop kit on my Subaru and they have treated us pretty well. They need to be warmed up before they really bite but that’s a known.


Sent from me
Click to expand...
So far so good... No noise, vibration, or anything negative to say. The rotors were coated really thoroughly with their geomet protection which is important to me living in a salted road region. All in all I'd recommend to anyone.
I honestly don't quite understand why they don't sell/offer a kit with the z36 pads and the solid rotors(though I didn't call them). I'm not a believer in slotted or drilled on a HD truck... But to each their own.
 
Ostracize said:
So far so good... No noise, vibration, or anything negative to say. The rotors were coated really thoroughly with their geomet protection which is important to me living in a salted road region. All in all I'd recommend to anyone.
I honestly don't quite understand why they don't sell/offer a kit with the z36 pads and the solid rotors(though I didn't call them). I'm not a believer in slotted or drilled on a HD truck... But to each their own.
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Thanks. I agree with solid rotors on an HD truck so long as they are better than the OEM garbage.


Sent from me
 
johanh13 said:
Offset is offset, regardless of wheel width. Offset will always tell you how far the center of your wheel/tire is moved in or out. If you have a ten inch wide wheel with 5.5" of backspacing (allowing 0.5" for the wheel lip), that is a zero offset wheel. The same 5.5" of backspace on an 8" wide wheel is a +25.4mm and will move the center of the tire in 1".
My stock wheels are 20x8" with +54mm offset, the +15mm offset will move the center of the tire out by 39mm or 1.535", which is too far for me, I would like to only move the tire out by about 3/4" of an inch.
The perfect wheel for me would be a 18x9" with +35mm offset, I would run 37x12.5 tire on that.
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You just said the same thing as me in other words. Offset and backspacing are a direct correlation of one another. Here is a visual representation.
 

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johanh13 said:
what your photo is showing is that the outside of the wheel will be in the same place on a 10" wide wheel with +35mm offset as a 8.5" wide wheel with +15mm offset. However, the center of the tire will move in by half of the 1.5" or 39mm, or roughly 3/4" or 20mm...
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Bingo
 
johanh13 said:
Offset is offset, regardless of wheel width. Offset will always tell you how far the center of your wheel/tire is moved in or out. If you have a ten inch wide wheel with 5.5" of backspacing (allowing 0.5" for the wheel lip), that is a zero offset wheel. The same 5.5" of backspace on an 8" wide wheel is a +25.4mm and will move the center of the tire in 1".
My stock wheels are 20x8" with +54mm offset, the +15mm offset will move the center of the tire out by 39mm or 1.535", which is too far for me, I would like to only move the tire out by about 3/4" of an inch.
The perfect wheel for me would be a 18x9" with +35mm offset, I would run 37x12.5 tire on that.
Click to expand...
Saying “offset is offset regardless of wheel width” is misleading. Offset means dick without the wheel width
 
Added running board lighting, I always like more lights but not cutting/splicing/tapping factory wires. I have some OPT7 lights on an older car and have been happy with them so went with OPT7 Sidekick 60" Running Board Lights. These lights provide white courtesy lights when doors are opened, amber running lights, and turn signal lights. I had previously tapped the bed lighting for additional lights under the rear bumper and like how they turn on when unlocking or opening a door. I used the same taps from the bed lighting for the courtesy light wire. I used a 7pin to 5 pin pigtail between the factory trailer wiring to provide running light power. Then a 5pin to Curt 56196 to get the turn signal signals. So wired with no additional changes to factory wiring than I had already used from the bed lighting. I don't like seeing lights directly, more indirect lighting, so I mounted them inside the pinch weld. Outside of the pinch weld definitely would've been much brighter but I am ok with how they are now. Overall about $100 into the project, now just to see how long they hold up.
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