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Suspension bushings

Drove the truck to town. Is a little better. Not as much body roll as it is with the fox shocks. So seems it's the rear suspension causing the issues.
 
Are you on the stock rear track bar or did you upgrade to Thuren’s? The geometry change makes a big difference.
 
That’s a good point.

I have front to back rocking a little bit when I stop when I have my fox shocks set to wide open, but nothing side to side.
 
I thinking to go with the striker adjustable arms I posted at first. I know CJC said stock or Thuren. But the Thuren bars have poly bushings to allow better travel. Granted the bars are longer and they change geometry. But why would poly bushings in stock length bars not work as well?
 
Crusty old shellback said:
I thinking to go with the striker adjustable arms I posted at first. I know CJC said stock or Thuren. But the Thuren bars have poly bushings to allow better travel. Granted the bars are longer and they change geometry. But why would poly bushings in stock length bars not work as well?
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The poly bushings will likely cause a combination of limited flexing, increased vibration transferred to truck/occupants.
 
dieselscout80 said:
The poly bushings will likely cause a combination of limited flexing, increased vibration transferred to truck/occupants.
Click to expand...
I thought it was the opposite.

From Thuren

"One other aspect Thuren has improved is the ride quality and vertical travel. This is accomplished by removing the OEM arms which use Torsion Bushings, which store energy like a spring. The 8 of these OEM Torsion Bushings take quite a bit of force to allow the axle to move 6" up and down. With them now being gone, you have effectively lowered the spring rate. If you tow or load heavy often, this could be undesirable, as you will notice a bit more sag when weighted as you have lost some of that "Torsion Bushing Spring Rate."

I don't really tow anything.
 
Crusty old shellback said:
I thought it was the opposite.

From Thuren

"One other aspect Thuren has improved is the ride quality and vertical travel. This is accomplished by removing the OEM arms which use Torsion Bushings, which store energy like a spring. The 8 of these OEM Torsion Bushings take quite a bit of force to allow the axle to move 6" up and down. With them now being gone, you have effectively lowered the spring rate. If you tow or load heavy often, this could be undesirable, as you will notice a bit more sag when weighted as you have lost some of that "Torsion Bushing Spring Rate."

I don't really tow anything.
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Dons talking about the vulcanized factory bushings. The bushings are fixed in the control arm and to the center sleeve. When torqued properly, the center sleeve of the bushing is locked in place. The bushing has to physically deform/ twist (torsion) for the arm to travel.

Many people think the control arm mounting bolts are pivot points and they are not. In other words, If you removed the axle and the control arm bolts were still tight, the control arms wouldn’t hang from the bolts

Poly is harder than rubber. It transfers vibrations more. But the bushings are different design so they flex differently.
 
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I’m late to the party but I think I’m caught up. The problem exists with Fox and bils both?

Boating to me is front / back failure to settle after a bump

Body roll to me is excessive lean when turning.

Which do you have? Or do you have both? You’ve mentioned both in this thread.

You think it’s the control arm bushings because cjc said it was? I’ve seen trucks much older with many more miles that still run fine on factory control arm bushings they tend to last more than a few years 100k miles

Does the truck sit level at ride height? Are all control arm bolts torqued properly (it’s high like 220lb?) did you check for play like @dieselscout80 suggested?

Overall, im skeptical that it’s the control arm bushings.
 
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I have like 25 miles of bad road to get to the freeway. In areas, I get bad side to side body roll on some sections of road. Not necessarily in turns. First thought was Fox shocks were wore out. Replaced with Bilstein and it got a little better.
But I also have front to back rocking on the freeway in sections. That part I know is more the road.
I rebuilt the fox shocks, but with 7wt vice 5 wt oil. They are stiffer than the Bilstein shocks.

Truck sits level. I can't see any movement in the bolts. Can't feel it n play in arms by pushing on them with my hand. But I see cracks in the rubber. I live in the high desert where it's dry.
 
Crusty old shellback said:
I have like 25 miles of bad road to get to the freeway. In areas, I get bad side to side body roll on some sections of road. Not necessarily in turns. First thought was Fox shocks were wore out. Replaced with Bilstein and it got a little better.
But I also have front to back rocking on the freeway in sections. That part I know is more the road.
I rebuilt the fox shocks, but with 7wt vice 5 wt oil. They are stiffer than the Bilstein shocks.

Truck sits level. I can't see any movement in the bolts. Can't feel it n play in arms by pushing on them with my hand. But I see cracks in the rubber. I live in the high desert where it's dry.
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Is it a concrete highway or asphalt?
Concrete slab highways are awful. Depending on speed and wheelbase you can certainly get an undesirable oscillation that could be described as boating.

The body roll is puzzling. You should have “no” body roll with swaybars. I know your PW sits higher and has less spring rate than my STD 2500 but I have no swaybars and have very little body roll.
 
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