SNJerz
Member
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On the fence on oil change and other questions
- Thread starter SNJerz
- Start date
SNJerz
Member
Can’t you just extract it out? And refill
Yes you can, and some shops do it that way.
However, using an extractor doesn’t necessarily get all of the metallic debris / residue out. Draining the fluid while warm would be more effective at getting any heavy particles out.
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
You’ll probably have to let it down off of the lift and it might line up on its own. With the truck on the ground you might have to shake the truck back and forth to get the bolt back in.
CdnHO
Well-Known Member
Ratchet strap?
SNJerz
Member
So the driveline service is done. Couple of things. One when we looked up the actual dealership manual in my shop Stellantis recommends the tech use new diff cover bolts each time the cover comes off. We found out why when two of them on the rear snapped at the recommended 15ftlb of torque with 20 degree turn past. Luckily we got them both extracted but only had one that was M10 1.25 to replace it with so did them all up except the very top one again only this time to 7.5 ftlb’s and that did the trick. I’ll have to order enough new ones to replace them all next time we do this and one extra to put in the top spot. The gasket even in the manual says it’s reusable but the shape it was in next time and from here on out it gets replaced along with the bolts. I know guys will say I’ve done it a million times and it was all good and nothing against it but that’s the way I’m going from here on out.
Front Diff used a vacuum extractor to pull the fluid out and topped it off with new. Ended up with almost 2qts in the bottle when extracting and it looked almost brand new so guessing previous owner did not use 4x4 that often.
Changed chassis fuel filter and it looked almost brand new. I’m guessing when the dealership tech did it he just put down the part number for the one up front but changed both. I put the new filter on anyway.
Transfer case was a breeze. Drained out the old and put in right at 2qts of new ATF+4.
Front Diff used a vacuum extractor to pull the fluid out and topped it off with new. Ended up with almost 2qts in the bottle when extracting and it looked almost brand new so guessing previous owner did not use 4x4 that often.
Changed chassis fuel filter and it looked almost brand new. I’m guessing when the dealership tech did it he just put down the part number for the one up front but changed both. I put the new filter on anyway.
Transfer case was a breeze. Drained out the old and put in right at 2qts of new ATF+4.
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SNJerz
Member
Just as a P.S. I test drove it for about 30 miles on the interstate. Wanted the gear oil in the rear to get hot and thin to make sure the gasket is sealed. No leaks. As for the arm we lowered the truck slowly and it lined up. The cast iron bitch was getting the nut with a locking ear that was behind it on. It’s a blind job that your doing by feel in a tiny space. No bueno. Had to be an easier way of getting that cover off without undoing it. Maybe crows feet??
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OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
I used a ratcheting box end wrench on the hard to get to ones. Had to use another wrench on the end of it to get them broken loose.
SNJerz
Member
Does anybody know what size bolts are used for the rear diff cover? I’m thinking M10 1.25 as that’s what we had and it matched up almost identically to the others. Just can’t find any other info on them execept a complete OEM replacement kit for cover,gasket, and bolts at torque king and they don’t list what size they are.
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
That arm is a swaybar. The whole thing can go in the trash
If you want to hook it back up you may have better luck with the vehicle sitting level. A ratchet strap may help or jacking the axle up on one side or the other may help.
SNJerz
Member
Getting it lined up wasn't the fun part, trying to get the nut on the backside proved to be the more interesting operation.That arm is a swaybar. The whole thing can go in the trash
If you want to hook it back up you may have better luck with the vehicle sitting level. A ratchet strap may help or jacking the axle up on one side or the other may help.
SNJerz
Member
So the Mopar part number for these bolts are 68216205AA. From the dealer they were $9.35 a bolt I picked them up from MoparPartsGiant.com for $4.79 a bolt.
OLEJOE
Well-Known Member
I have done this several times and I have not had a single bolt break. But I don’t try to use a torque wrench on them because I can’t get to all of them with it. I’ve mostly used a 1/4” ratchet and been unable to get a lot of torque on them.
SNJerz
Member
Yeah my mistake I think was the book called for 30lbs of torque on the rear cover bolts and 15lbs plus a 20 degree turn for the front cover bolts . That’s pretty a pretty hefty amount on the rear so I figured let me take them to 15lbs first. I don’t know if these have been taken off an on before and how many times they have been possibly overtorqued. There are no diff services showing on the history but who knows what he was doing and just not recording.With these new bolts I may try it along with a new gasket next service interval.
firemansdiesel
Active Member
I did my diff fluid change on the ground. Never had an issue lining bolts backup tighting. Also, I torqued my bolts to 25 lb-ft. No issues. Same as my ‘05, ‘12 and ‘18 trucks. Gaskets and bolts have always been re-used going back to the 3rd gens.
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SNJerz
Member
The gasket looked really torn up when it came off from what I have no idea. No problem in getting them back in except the 2 shearing one right at or near the 15lbs and one before 15lbs. Who knows what was done to the bolts before. I worked in an equipment shop for 20 years and tbh except for certain things a lot of guys used German torque specs a lot. You never know the prev owner may have got on them with an impact wrench. I’d rather just solve it by getting all new bolts for the next change and a new gasket. For $30 and some change a new gasket is something that I would just do everytime for peace of mind. For me a diff interval of 30k miles is like once every three years
CdnHO
Well-Known Member
Likely the manufacturer is using "torque-to- yield" bolts for that axle. They can only be used once because they are designed to stretch at the recommended torque.
SNJerz
Member
That would be my guess. I may have to redo the whole thing as I noticed this morning it has a very slow seep around the bottom. Having the bolts at 7.5ftlbs when the spec calls for 30lbs might have a lot to do with it or the ragged gasket. At this point I’m not risking another one snapping trying to take them past the 7.5 mark. New bolts shipped today delivered Thursday. Sucks that I need to order another 4qts of amsoil severe gear and a gasket from Geno’s but you live and you learn.
SNJerz
Member
So bad news the rear gaskets are back ordered until 5/31/25 on Geno’s and a few other mopar parts sites.