Missing Blind Spot Monitoring

[PMJohns]

^Thanks^. Good information. I’m going to need to set aside some time for this and have back up transportation if I start disconnecting the wrong things!

I have been doing mine in stages:
Stage 1 - Replace the tail lights and the tail light jumpers
Stage 2 - Replace the mirrors (my truck already had the BSM wires for the mirrors)
Stage 3 - Add the jumper from the chassis/dash harness plug to the CAN bus.

I have completed stage 1 and 2. Waiting for the rain to stop fro stage 3.

 

[blbrown]

Also doing in stages.
cut out existing LED taillights to add modules.
Changed out mirror glass and installed jumpers from Jimmy07.
Added the Can Buss jumpers, also from Jimmy07.
Finding the modules (68442393AE) has been a real ordeal, got one from Mopar, waiting 4 months for the second one and finally found one on ebay, should be in this Wednesday.
Got my fingers crossed will all work out!!

 

[mkksat13]

Also doing in stages.
cut out existing LED taillights to add modules.
Changed out mirror glass and installed jumpers from Jimmy07.
Added the Can Buss jumpers, also from Jimmy07.
Finding the modules (68442393AE) has been a real ordeal, got one from Mopar, waiting 4 months for the second one and finally found one on ebay, should be in this Wednesday.
Got my fingers crossed will all work out!!

Just curious, are you adding the BSM modules to your original tail light? I've read on this thread that it can be difficult to do so some are just buying the new tail lights with the modules in them. I'd rather add the modules versus buy new tail lights.

 

[blbrown]

Just curious, are you adding the BSM modules to your original tail light? I've read on this thread that it can be difficult to do so some are just buying the new tail lights with the modules in them. I'd rather add the modules versus buy new tail lights.

I bought a cheap dremel tool at Harbor Frieght and cut out the area for the module heat sink, you just need to go slow and be careful to not cut deeper than the thickness of the plastic. One of my lights had the internal wiring routed right under my cut line, the other one was clear of wires.
You need to leave about 1/8" lip for the gasket to seat against.
If I was to do again I might just buy new lights as well because the modules I'm told you need are on a long backorder.

 

[blbrown]

If you decide to try yourself I found the easiest way to open the connector on the light to add the needed module wires is to use a 12" adjustable "Cresent" wrench and turn the connector counter clockwise which breaks the little plastic internal lock tab off. The tab isn't really needed anyway.

 

[blbrown]

Second module came in from ebay "used" and I now have a perfectly operational Blind Spot Monitor system. Thanks in large part to the very professional wiring jumpers from Jimmy07.

 

[PMJohns]

Quick question, do I need to remove the fender flair screws to remove the splash guard (for access to the chassis / dash harness connector)?

 

[blbrown]

Quick question, do I need to remove the fender flair screws to remove the splash guard (for access to the chassis / dash harness connector)?

Yes you remove all the flare screws as well as a couple of plastic push in clips.

 

[pre1099]

I have a 12-21 build truck with the safety package and the premium to mirrors, no BSM . My mirrors have the small triangle in the corner. Do I need to replace the mirror glass?

 

[RSA964993]

Yes you remove all the flare screws as well as a couple of plastic push in clips.

All of my parts finally came so I’m getting ready to start this project. I have zero experience with anything like this so I’ll be asking many rookie questions.

Here is the first one. In regards to the attached question on this post… Is access being gained from outside of the truck via the wheel well? Meaning the liner that is being talked about being removed is from the driver front wheel on the outside of the truck and removing that wheel well?

I’d appreciate any tips (pictures and or videos) of removing the door panel that will give me access to the harnesses that need to be reworked with Jimmies connections. As a side note, he makes some quality stuff. Nicely done. I just don’t want to screw anything up!

Thanks in advance.

 

[RSA964993]

Hoping to bump post from above and also have another question about the software part which I’m guessing is needed to access the menu to activate the BSM. I have the Auto Agent 2 EZ Link that I use for the Calibrated Power Tunes as I have their ECU tune package. Will this work to get into the BSM menu? The Auto Agent App is tied directly to my truck via VIN and it has a menu that seems to cover a lot of programmable items in the truck and it’s all plugged into the OBD2.

 

[blbrown]

I know enough to get myself in trouble, I got most of my questions answered by reading through Jimmy07 posts. He was a great help! I made all my program changes using AlfaOBD, not aware of any other software that might also work.
For my 2020 2500 I had to add the 4 pins to the connector found behind the front left wheel liner. You really have to search the fourom's to find out more. I should have kept documentation of the steps I ended up taking. I'm trying to find the documentation I can and will post here for you.

 

[blbrown]

I know enough to get myself in trouble, I got most of my questions answered by reading through Jimmy07 posts. He was a great help! I made all my program changes using AlfaOBD, not aware of any other software that might also work.
For my 2020 2500 I had to add the 4 pins to the connector found behind the front left wheel liner. You really have to search the fourom's to find out more. I should have kept documentation of the steps I ended up taking. I'm trying to find the documentation I can and will post here for you.

 

[blbrown]

Hoping to bump post from above and also have another question about the software part which I’m guessing is needed to access the menu to activate the BSM. I have the Auto Agent 2 EZ Link that I use for the Calibrated Power Tunes as I have their ECU tune package. Will this work to get into the BSM menu? The Auto Agent App is tied directly to my truck via VIN and it has a menu that seems to cover a lot of programmable items in the truck and it’s all plugged into the OBD2.

I found a great deal of what I needed on this forum .

Is it possible to add Blind Spot?

Hi, Was wondering if it's possible to add blind spot to my level 2 bighorn (has the 7 inch cluster which would be crucial I assume) with the LED package. It would be great to have when towing my travel trailer. I know I would need the blind spot detection modules and new left and right side...

5thgenrams.com

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[MtnRider]

Hoping to bump post from above and also have another question about the software part which I’m guessing is needed to access the menu to activate the BSM. I have the Auto Agent 2 EZ Link that I use for the Calibrated Power Tunes as I have their ECU tune package. Will this work to get into the BSM menu? The Auto Agent App is tied directly to my truck via VIN and it has a menu that seems to cover a lot of programmable items in the truck and it’s all plugged into the OBD2.

No, you need the AlfaOBD app to do this mod. The ezlynk can do a few things but not nearly as robust as Alfa is when it comes to making BCM changes.



.

 

[RSA964993]

No, you need the AlfaOBD app to do this mod. The ezlynk can do a few things but not nearly as robust as Alfa is when it comes to making BCM changes.



.

Appreciate the response on the AlfaOBD question. Sounds good, I’ll go ahead and get that. Thanks!

 

[HDnick10]

I have a 12-21 build truck with the safety package and the premium to mirrors, no BSM . My mirrors have the small triangle in the corner. Do I need to replace the mirror glass?

I have seen some members find the mirror connections were present, some not. Likely need to remove the mirror to check if its actually connected to anything. Maybe @Jimmy07 has this insight.

 

[Jimmy07]

I have seen some members find the mirror connections were present, some not. Likely need to remove the mirror to check if its actually connected to anything. Maybe @Jimmy07 has this insight.

Lately, I’ve just been having everyone pop the inner door panel off, and look at the black connector from the mirror to see if there is a wire in position 7.

 

[RSA964993]

For those that are adding the 4 pins that Jimmy supplies for the CanBus part I can offer some tips.
In order to access the connector you have to unbolt most of the driver wheel well and move it out of the way. The harness connectors are there and it’s much easier to slide the harness off of a hook that is behind the harness. Once off, it’s somewhat intuitive to separate the connectors. Look for the red tab and pull the handle thing and it will separate. It needs some effort. The first picture shows the harness separated.
The goal is to get the four pins/connectors into the backside of the harness. In the first picture you can see where I’ve put the pin into the back of the harness. Its labeled 6 as it goes into the 6 slot on the harness.
In the second picture I’m looking at where the pins will come through from the other side of the connector. The purple tab needs to slide left and it will if you slide a very small screw driver to the base of the purple tab on the right and then push left. This has to be done because the pins won’t go through to the other side. Moving the tab let’s the pins go through.
Before you start putting the pins through their respective holes (5,6,46,47) I’d recommend pulling the little rubber grommets that are in the holes out. If you don’t, when you are pushing the pin through the grommet will get pushed down and it’s almost impossible to get the pin to go through.
Once you have all 4 pins through, push the purple tab back to it’s original position.

 

[Chrisminx]

@Jimmy07