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Industrial Injection CP3 pump and installation and follow on use!

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7) as said earlier the HP fuel lines are 3/4 and the connections to secure the lines are if memory services 13mm nuts.
The forward rail is pretty easy to see snd you have a lot of space
The rear rail is a challenge. This is where I would use the open face ratchet head 3/4 with short extension to break it loose.
Use the snips to clip the zip ties that have harp edges
If you haven’t already use this time to undo the harness and move some wiring out of the way. Also disconnect the transmission dip stick (AISIN trucks). You’ll get more room.

Patience is your friend.


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8) easy enough, tuck out of the way when you’re done

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9) is a 13 mm if memory serves and is straight forward. I think the lower nut where the support bracket is connect to the CP4 is an 8mm. I removed both to have room to pull the pump later


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10) as I wrote I cut mine off with snips. My release wouldn’t come off.


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11) reminder to use 13mm to remove the nuts. Don’t lose them you’ll need them.
This is the most rewarding part of it all. The pump comes out. I used a pry bar on both sides to uniformly pull the pump. Take a little effort but not a lot. Careful with the o-rings.

12) 26mm socket here....best thing is an impact and she will come off. I took this time to move the blue and black O-rings to the new pilot. I used a small flat head to remove them. A pick would would too.

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13) those nuts I told you not to lose, you’ll need em now. Use the double nut method with a 13mm wrench and deep socket. Lock them together and remove them. Might take a couple of attempts but they should come out easily.


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14) it’s a reach but you can do it. Even though it doesn’t feel like they are the same connector they in fact are. I used a flat head to reach the button on the back ECM connector and used my hand to loft snd remove the latches. The bolts holding down the front harness are smaller than the rear. I think one is a 10mm and the other is a 13mm. Remove them and don’t lose them.

15) ECM is held on by 10mm if memory serves. You can reach them but I found going under the truck got me an easier angle to the front end rear lower bolts.
You’ll have enough room to lift the wiring harness away and to pull the ECM out. Careful with the pins.

16) the plate has 2-3 different bolt sizes (I think) 10mm and or 13mm and a 15mm for the bigger guy. You won’t need these once you remove them.

17) the spacers can be tricky. I used high temp electrical tape to secure them to the bushings and it held enough to get the new bolts started.

18) ECM will be a tighter fit but I did push the power steering line about 1-2 inches for space.

19) ONLY PLUG IN THE REAR and secure the harness. Leave the forward disconnected. The harness will slide in, rear top to bottom and click in. Do this by feel and take your time.


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20) the kit comes with 2 o-rings. It obvious which one goes here. The second larger o-ring will not be used

21) as said before this can be tricky but use your 26mm and secure that gear. The photo shows a small gap. I had about a 1/4” between the bottom of the gear snd the adapter. Use some assembly lube and press it on. You should be able to get it by hand.

22) use the H6 hex socket head.
Flat toward the bottom and blue lock tight. There is only one way to get this on.


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23) is when I learned a new language and was talking to ghosts....take your time and use some assembly lube. It’s kicked my but. When you clock it in it’s only a slight clock towards the drivers side and then I used a small pry bar to gently ease it in....this took time but once she was on I lined up the holes and placed the H6 hex bolts in.
The one on the lower right as you see in the picture and the open hole in the adapter plate was a bear. We used the H6 and then a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, swivel and short extension with a small 1/4 ratchet. This took time as well but got it secured. The top is the only way we were going to get it done.

24) ECM connector worked the same way as the rear but was very tight. Take your time. FCA harness is self explanatory

25) ok so when in doubt use some common sense here. The low pressure feed line is coming from your filter housing....the return is not. That will sort that out. I encourage you to set those before you do the high pressure lines.

When you do the high pressure lines START FROM THE RAIL and work your way to the pump.
Make sure it’s TIGHT!!! and I mean it, snug will result in a high pressure fuel leak...ask me how I know.


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26) simple. Push the rubber isolated from your old rail out of the bracket and it will come off, py the old bracket up just a hair and it will release the old HO fuel line. I think that’s a 13mm

27) mine didn’t fit on there but from what I was told it should be an issue.


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28) easy enough. Filters take a 1-1/8 socket. There was some slop so a true metric would work better and a shallow one at that.

Good deal on filters is genosgarage.com

29) prime it 6 or so times. 15-20 seconds each.

She will chug a bit but she will fire when it’s done.


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There ya have it gents. I know you can do it.

Ask questions if you have them and I’ll do my best to answer. As we found out there are others on this thread who have successfully done it as well so hopefully we will have a large community to help you out.

As always if you have any other questions for industrial here is their contact information below.

www.industrialinjection.com

Industrial Injection - Diesel Fuel System Experts Since 1985

Discover Industrial Injection: A family-owned leader since 1985 in diesel fuel systems, turbochargers, and engines. Experience top-quality service and innovation in diesel technology for all applications.
www.industrialinjection.com www.industrialinjection.com

1 (800) 955-0476


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By chance are you going to disassemble your CP4 pump to check the condition of the internals? I would be interested to see the condition of the tappets, rollers, and cam.
 
Thanks everyone! Hope it helps.



As far as disassembly of the CP4, That’s the plan yes. I haven’t yet but I will when I have a moment to see how it’s all put together snd of I have any shavings in the screen.


Another note: Just as a heads up if you have tuning on your truck you’ll want to get an updated tune to assist with rail pressure and demands as there is fluctuation between demand and actual. If you’re not tuned it’s 100% drop in no issues at all.


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Mods

Would you be so kind to change up the thread title maybe? “Industrial injection CP3 and installation” or some variant of it?

I’d like it to be at least a single point resource for those searching and attempting an install

Thank you


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NordicNevs said:
Mods

Would you be so kind to change up the thread title maybe? “Industrial injection CP3 and installation” or some variant of it?

I’d like it to be at least a single point resource for those searching and attempting an install

Thank you


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Click to expand...
Done, but for future reference, I believe you can edit the thread title. Send a PM if not.
 
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