What's new
By:
Ram Heavy Duty Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

I need new batteries. Why?

Brutal_HO said:
And if you're going to park long term without a maintainer, one of these for emergencies. Use camelcamelcamel to catch them on sale.

You could probably drop down one model but I got stranded once with a smaller (other mfr) model once.

View attachment 73281
Click to expand...
Is one of these enough or do I need 2?
 
hdas said:
Do you plug the NOCO to the main battery (left) or Aux (right)? I’m assuming left
Click to expand...

There is no aux or main battery, they are the same battery connected in parallel making one bigger battery.

Based on how I park my truck in my shop I’m connected to the drivers side battery.

It really doesn’t matter where you connect to the 12V system, but it’s recommended it’s on the vehicle side of the IBS which is on the drivers negative post.
 
Other than a slow/no start with weak batteries, is there ever a drop off in engine performance or does the alternator take care of controlling all of the electronics that make the truck go down the road?
 
Wholeo said:
Other than a slow/no start with weak batteries, is there ever a drop off in engine performance or does the alternator take care of controlling all of the electronics that make the truck go down the road?
Click to expand...
No
 
Wholeo said:
Other than a slow/no start with weak batteries, is there ever a drop off in engine performance or does the alternator take care of controlling all of the electronics that make the truck go down the road?
Click to expand...

The alternator provides all of the electrical needs while driving when the alternator voltage is greater than the battery voltage would be statically , which is nearly all of the time. That can vary based on battery SOC, but for simplicity if the voltmeter is above 12.7V the alternator(s) are providing all the electrical needs.
 
I had an 06 , same batteries when I sold it in 14 . I was on the road in those days and the truck would sit for six to eight weeks at a time . Starting was never a problem . My 14 and 20 about 4 years . Battery tender makes a a dual version to keep both maintained for about $ 100 on Amazon . I checked mine with a tester and both were at 100% .after using the tender .
 
Brutal_HO said:
Just the one on the driver side.
Click to expand...
I like that idea. My truck will sit for a week at a time and while I do have a NOCO 10 amp on board charger I usually don't plug it in. I don't have any idea of the battery state of charge. This will provide me some guidance as to when to charge.
 
CdnHO said:
I like that idea. My truck will sit for a week at a time and while I do have a NOCO 10 amp on board charger I usually don't plug it in. I don't have any idea of the battery state of charge. This will provide me some guidance as to when to charge.
Click to expand...

Instead of installing another device that will have a low draw I’d just plug the NOCO in. It’s better for the battery and you already have it.
 
I primarily installed the monitor when I was having battery "issues."

It really just helped confirm the OEM batteries are crap.
 
Are the factory batteries AGM? Is it important that the replacements should be AGM?
 
deanfx said:
Are the factory batteries AGM? Is it important that the replacements should be AGM?
Click to expand...
I don't think it matters.
I may be wrong but you could go with Lithium batteries, much more cranking amps in a smaller and much lighter package.
I've switched to Lithium in my bikes, there was no special precautions or anything for doing it and I know people do this in their cars and RVs, trucks should be no different.
 
MEGA HO said:
I don't think it matters.
I may be wrong but you could go with Lithium batteries, much more cranking amps in a smaller and much lighter package.
I've switched to Lithium in my bikes, there was no special precautions or anything for doing it and I know people do this in their cars and RVs, trucks should be no different.
Click to expand...

I would not go with a lithium battery in a vehicle for a couple reasons.

Lithium batteries can’t be charged below 32°F, which may be an issue for many drivers.

Also, the charge voltage did lithium are different and not what vehicles are programmed for.
 
MEGA HO said:
I don't think it matters.
I may be wrong but you could go with Lithium batteries, much more cranking amps in a smaller and much lighter package.
I've switched to Lithium in my bikes, there was no special precautions or anything for doing it and I know people do this in their cars and RVs, trucks should be no different.
Click to expand...
I ask because, with Ford trucks, when you add AGM batteries there is a Forscan setting that needs to be changed to let the truck know of the battery type. No clue why though.
 
deanfx said:
I ask because, with Ford trucks, when you add AGM batteries there is a Forscan setting that needs to be changed to let the truck know of the battery type. No clue why though.
Click to expand...

AGM’s benefit from a slightly different charge profile, but the standard charge profile also works unlike lithium.

The OE batteries are not AGM.
 
AH64ID said:
AGM’s benefit from a slightly different charge profile, but the standard charge profile also works unlike lithium.

The OE batteries are not AGM.
Click to expand...
Thanks Boss. I do think I'm going with AGM when the OE batteries give up. No good reason why other than I can't stop changing things.
 
I had my truck sitting for a few days without a battery tender (I have the Deltran 5A-12V pictured above on first page) and connected my Deltran up yesterday and now have a low voltage situation and the Deltran's safety circuitry won't allow the tender to start charging. My volt meter says both batteries are down to 8V. No idea how both batteries could die on me in a matter of days. Checked to see if any lights, etc., are on in the cab but nothing. I've already replaced the driver's side battery a few years ago so it's certainly plausable the passenger battery died given it's 4 years old and the original OEM. I just don't understand how the other battery got drained so quickly.

I'm going to jump start the truck with my wife's car and try putting the tender back on it to bring it back up to full charge. I'm hoping the batteries aren't damaged and need replacement. Anyone else experience both batteries with low voltages like this?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top