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Double towing vs dolley

Gotcha that makes sense. Otherwise it would be a trailer sway party into the ditch.
I have seen that guy had a brand new 1/2 ton camper and pontoon all in the ditch on its side on his way to go hunting
 
Twin trailers is super cool/interesting. Does the tongue weight on the rear trailer help alleviate some of the load on the pin of the first trailer? Kinda seems like it would be tricky to get all the weights right.

Not as much as you might think.

There's a formula for calculating it that I don't have handy ATM, or you can just hit the scales. Honestly, my setup tows better with the boat hooked up than not. The extra #300 on the back helps tame things a bit. That said, I think for next season I'm going to install some Sumo springs on the trailer. It's about time to get new tires as well going on 5 years old this summer, and I'll step up one size for just a little more height (1/2") that will put me perfectly level.
 

 
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I’m looking for some advice from guys who have had different setups.

My truck is a 2500 CTD 2200lbs of payload.

Currently I have a 28’ (actual length) 5000lbs travel trailer.

I’m looking to bring along our 4 seater utv on some of our family camping trips. Utv is 12’ and 1500lbs

We have ruled out a toy hauler because when we don’t bring the utv we don’t want the extra size the toy hauler brings with it. We only want to take the utv on maybe 50% of our trips. And tow haulers are really tongue heavy with our toes in them. Also we would like to be able to not have to stay at the ohv areas for riding. For instance we like camping at Lake Tahoe and there is a ton of off-road if to do around there, but if we stay at a rv park we are stuck without a way to get our utv to the trails.

We have also ruled out a bed rack as my truck doesn’t have the payload to have a rack + utv + trailer hitch weight, and the high center of gravity with those setups sketch me out.

So the options were looking at are a freedom hauler, specifically the 10’ unit (12’ long actual). I would still be under 10k towing but the length would be getting up there (21’ truck + 28’ trailer + 12’ dolley) so 61’ overall. This is under the 65’ max tow length for most states but it’s a hell of a setup. I have a good weight distribution hitch with good sway control but I’d still be a bit worried about that long of a tongue pull setup. It does seem like it would be more convenient for refueling as backing and turning isn’t as difficult as it would be with a double pull setup. Just have to watch the tail swing. The cost of the freedom hauler with mounting kit and trailer conversion kit is around 13k

The other option we are looking at is upgrading our trailer to a 5th wheel. Specifically a half ton unit around 25’-30’. Dry hitch weight for these is usually around 1500lbs add a few hundred for batteries and propane, I would likely put a Reese goose box on the trailer since my truck has the factory puck system and that will help me cut down some payload. Then I could tow my 10’ trailer that I currently use to haul my utv around. The length would be cut down be 5’-10’ depending on which 5th wheel we got id be shooting for closer to the 25’ side of the range but the weight would be properly closer to 10klbs to 12.5klbs. And I would be approaching my trucks payload limit. The price would greatly depend on the cost of whatever unit we decided on and the trade in or sale value of our current trailer.

If you’ve read this whole wall of text thank you and I appreciate whatever advice my fellow ram enthusiasts have to offer.
Ahhh, let me tell you the story of a similar set up double tow except the last tow was two water skis. I was a car back but out by Russell KS there is this one place where the two sides of the interstate has one side a couple hundred feet above the other and maybe a hundred yards. That top part heading west gets some serious gusts. So, anyway, I see the water skis start going back and forth then the trailer and then the truck and finally they all flipped on their sides. We had to wait an hour for relief. No one hurt but definitely everything else totaled. I swore I'd never do that... They had plenty of truck.
 
How many of you have pulled a rig that 65’ overall is it worse than pulling a 55’ overall setup?
Longer is always better in my book, with qualifications. I tow lots of big 5ers and the longer the better. Longer travel trailers are another category to me. I don't care for pulling them if they're very long at all. I don't think adding the freedom hauler could possibly help that situation. Your travel trailer? Yeah, it's fine. Add the freedom hauler to the tail end of it? I don't think I'd be a fan. I don't care about being over 100ft long as long as it pulls ok.

I don't think I'd hesitate one second to add the FH to the back of a 5er.

Keep us up to date on what you decide and how it works out for you.
 
I pull a small boat behind a much smaller travel trailer than yours, ball to ball is legal here.
It makes the TT even better behaved, having that tail. No WDH, just double friction bars to the TT and one to the boat.
An older so heavier 14ft TT and the same aluminum boat which weighs not much, though.
Not legal in AZ but I run 14 miles in regularly. Would plead ignorance and come back for the boat, my plan.

My buddy has a four wheel thing on a utility trailer, wanted me to pull it behind my TT on deer hunts. I passed, weighs a bit more than my boat and the shorter trailer wheels to tongue is more squirrelly IME.

The setup four wheels pretty decent..ha. It’s double but tiny.
IMG_8738.jpeg
 
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I’m going to pick up the freedom hauler tomorrow, I probably won’t tow with the whole setup till mid September at the soonest, I figure worst case I just bought a really expensive utility trailer until I upgrade to a 5th wheel.

The freedom isn’t technically “pulling doubles” it’s an extension of the trailer. It’s like the swivel wheels but seems to me to be a better design, and can be converted to a conventional trailer unlike swivel wheels so once you get to where your going you can pull the trailer tongue out and haul your toy to the trails from your camp site.

With how it’s designed it can’t sway separately from the trailer it’s hooked to, that seems like it would almost fight sway in a sense, but also if your towing in a windy area it’s that much more surface area for wind to push against.

It’s also made for more of a 50/50 weight distribution on the deck so it’s not removing weight off the tongue of the trailer. Either way when I’m pulling this setup I’m going to fill my fresh water tank and load tongue heavy just to be safe.
 
Freedom haulers and the like have 2-3 fixed points of contact and, IMHO, would tend to reduce sway on a TT pull. Those small swivel wheel trailers with the tiny tire kind of scare me anyway. That said, never seen or heard of anyone using a Freedom Hauler with a TT, only 5th wheels.

Whatever you do, do NOT depend on a factory trailer bumper for any attachment points, they can barely hold up a bike rack. Tow receiver needs to be solidly mounted to the trailer frame - bolted on/welded or both. I'm a fan of bolt on unless the frame as a large thick I beam. Been running my custom fabricated bolt on 5K rated hitch on 2 5th wheels now since 2004. Curt makes a pretty decent bolt on setup that can be fitter to most any trailer (they have different models) if you're not one to fab something yourself.

With lighter weight trailers with thin C-frame, you should probably reconsider, or at least consider extending some extra steel up past the axles. Low tongue weight towable like small aluminum boats or anything ~1500-2000 lbs max shouldn't put a lot of vertical flex into the front trailer.

I pull a small boat behind a much smaller travel trailer than yours, ball to ball is legal here.
It makes the TT even better behaved, having that tail. No WDH, just double friction bars to the TT and one to the boat.
An older so heavier 14ft TT and the same aluminum boat which weighs not much, though.
Not legal in AZ but I run 14 miles in regularly. Would plead ignorance and come back for the boat, my plan.

My buddy has a four wheel thing on a utility trailer, wanted me to pull it behind my TT on deer hunts. I passed, weighs a bit more than my boat and the shorter trailer wheels to tongue is more squirrelly IME.

The setup four wheels pretty decent..ha. It’s double but tiny.

IMHO, the 2nd towable should be no more than 1/3 or 1/2 the weight of the front trailer. Keep in mind that most factory equipped 5th wheels with tow rated hitches are only rated for 3000-3500 max towable.
 
The freedom hauler with my utv will be under 3000lbs. Travel trailer all loaded up should be just under 7.

I’m a home brew fabricator. Planing on running a new crossmember upstream of the rear bumper. And replace the the rear bumper with thicker metal and bolt the freedom hauler mounts to both to create a big box that it mounts to on 4 points.

I also kick around an idea of creating a completely separate box that it mounts to that will use u bolts (the square ones) to attach to the frame so I can just remove it and move it to a new trailer in the future.
After I get a feel for the frame I might plate up to in front of the axles depending on what I find.
 
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This is pretty close to what my setup will be.

Not on an Airstream I hope? Airstream frames aren’t designed to take any extra weight as the frames are “floppy” on their own and the body provides much of the rigidity. Weight hanging on the back of an Airstream frame tends to pull the body apart.
 
Good call on beefing up the frame. With the exception of large 5th wheels, most camper frames are pretty lame. I still have an old 26ft 5th wheel and like Brutal said, the "bumper" is pathetic, just a glorifed storage compartment for the sewer drain hose. And the "frame" that it's welded to isn't much better. A 4k genny on the bumper actually pulls the frame down away from the camper box. Good stuff.

Good luck.
 
Freedom haulers and the like have 2-3 fixed points of contact and, IMHO, would ten to reduce sway on a TT pull. Those small swivel wheel trailers with the tiny tire kind of scare me anyway. That said, never seen or heard of anyone using a Freedom Hauler with a TT, only 5th wheels.

Whatever you do, do NOT depend on a factory trailer bumper for any attachment points, they can barely hold up a bike rack. Tow receiver needs to be solidly mounted to the trailer frame - bolted on/welded or both. I'm a fan of bolt on unless the frame as a large thick I beam. Been running my custom fabricated bolt on 5K rated hitch on 2 5th wheels now since 2004. Curt makes a pretty decent bolt on setup that can be fitter to most any trailer (they have different models) if you're not one to fab something yourself.

With lighter weight trailers with thin C-frame, you should probably reconsider, or at least consider extending some extra steel up past the axles. Low tongue weight towable like small aluminum boats or anything ~1500-2000 lbs max shouldn't put a lot of vertical flex into the front trailer.



IMHO, the 2nd towable should be no more than 1/3 or 1/2 the weight of the front trailer. Keep in mind that most factory equipped 5th wheels with tow rated hitches are only rated for 3000-3500 max towable.
Mine being an older trailer, the frame is pretty stout and yes the hitch is a heavy 2x4 tube solidly welded and bolted to it.
Indeed, the tongue of that boat trailer weighs nearly nothing, maybe 50? pounds which is good…that lil TT is very tongue weight sensitive, needs a lot to behave being short in length, tall in height/ lift and the single axle being where it is.
Boat and trailer weighs around 600lbs with gear if that, betcha.
 
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Not on an Airstream I hope? Airstream frames aren’t designed to take any extra weight as the frames are “floppy” on their own and the body provides much of the rigidity. Weight hanging on the back of an Airstream frame tends to pull the body apart.

Definitely not an airstream, it’s a standard camping trailer 7k rated frame 2 3500lb axles. I went and checked out the frame a little closer, I’m actually pleasantly surprised, probably because I was expecting to be disappointed, but the frame is 6” I beam looks to be around 1/8” thick all the way back with decent cross bracing. The camper has a fairly light dry weight of 4385lbs and a cargo capacity of 2615 so it’s not one of those campers that are rolling out of the factory with 500lbs of capacity left. The only time I weighed it all loaded up it was just over 5500lbs and that was with only enough water for bathroom breaks on the road. So with full water tanks (500lbs) and extra riding gear put under the bed I should still have 750-1000lbs of capacity left in the frame for the for the freedom hauler.
 
Definitely not an airstream, it’s a standard camping trailer 7k rated frame 2 3500lb axles. I went and checked out the frame a little closer, I’m actually pleasantly surprised, probably because I was expecting to be disappointed, but the frame is 6” I beam looks to be around 1/8” thick all the way back with decent cross bracing. The camper has a fairly light dry weight of 4385lbs and a cargo capacity of 2615 so it’s not one of those campers that are rolling out of the factory with 500lbs of capacity left. The only time I weighed it all loaded up it was just over 5500lbs and that was with only enough water for bathroom breaks on the road. So with full water tanks (500lbs) and extra riding gear put under the bed I should still have 750-1000lbs of capacity left in the frame for the for the freedom hauler.

One last note; Just consider that loaded capacity (GVWR) is spread over the axles/tongue, it's not intended to be any significant amount hanging a few feet off the back. That's why most factory setup are maxed at 300-350 lbs tongue weight.
 
Picked up the freedom hauler. Towed it 220 miles home in “trailer” mode. It towed like every light weight single axle trailer. Little bouncy but it tracked straight. It is one of the later models that use a electric actuator rather that an air compressor to steer the tires, supposed to be more reliable than the old air operated system.
 

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Used my day off to get the bracket made and everything mocked up. Still need to get the 7 pin wired to the back and add the rear view camera to the trailer. This set up is 43’ 6” tip to butt and with my truck and hitch I’ll be right at 65’ long just like I thought. I still need to adjust the front of the dolly up a little bit I wanted to load up the utv and see what everything looked like.

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Used my day off to get the bracket made and everything mocked up. Still need to get the 7 pin wired to the back and add the rear view camera to the trailer. This set up is 43’ 6” tip to butt and with my truck and hitch I’ll be right at 65’ long just like I thought. I still need to adjust the front of the dolly up a little bit I wanted to load up the utv and see what everything looked like.

ede310346f5a03a81cb38b5f52113172.jpg

03c9842fe3155fe97b217ca78878714c.jpg

640d6b4fee394ac44f7e6b4af6349588.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dog is looking like...I hope he lets me ride in the truck!!
 
He doesn’t get to go when we go riding because he doesn’t like any power sport vehicles for some reason. Cars and trucks can drive by my house all day and he doesn’t even pick up his head but as soon as a dirt bike quad or utv drives by he’s at the fence. He also hates rc cars. I have no idea why he’s like that but he’s been that way since he was a puppy.


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