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Do you do your own Engine oil and Filter changes?

Ritchie_Rich said:
I don’t consider paying for quality parts ridiculous.
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For the filter in question $50 is very ridiculous, it’s the typical Mopar markup that doesn’t get you anything but an empty wallet.

Mopar parts are also not always quality. The air and fuel filters for the 6.7 definitely are, but historically the oil filters for the 5.9/6.7 were bottom shelf and easily beaten by nearly every aftermarket option available. I can only think of one cross reference filter that had a lower rating. For the 5.9 HPCR the Mopar fuel filter didn’t even meet the minimum filtration spec listed by Bosch. Just because it’s OEM doesn’t always mean it’s quality.

I always get a good chuckle out of people that buy quality oils and then run a Mopar oil filter on their pre-25 Cummins trucks. Why not run quality oil and a quality filter?!
 
Oil is oil and filters are filters. So long as they meet manufacturer requirements. Unless purchased on Amazon or eBay.
I’ve always used Fram or factory filters and different brand name oils for all my vehicles with good results. Nearly 50yrs of vehicle ownership and driving over 1 million miles with no problems related to oils or filters. Cheers.
 
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Ritchie_Rich said:
Oil is oil and filters are filters. So long as they meet manufacturer requirements.
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It’s simple fact that some oils are better than others, even when they meet the same spec… and filters aren’t any different. Pretty simple to read UOA and see the vast differences in oils that meet the same spec.

Luckily the Cummins in this discussion is very easy on oil (though not as easy as the flat tappet predecessor) and doesn’t seem to care too much, though there are still differences among oils. Across other platforms there are much bigger differences in engine wear between same spec oils which is why some get recommended and some get shunned… and they all meet the required spec.
 
MacksRam said:
I just called my local RAM dealer--the Service Advisor states they charge $250-$270 (NOT including tax) to do an Engine oil and filter change. He said that is using "conventional" oil (he did not mention what brand oil).
I can do my own (using Rotella T6 full synthetic and Mopar oil filter) for $125 (tax included). And I KNOW it is done right.
When they get the Fleetguard engine oil filter fiasco worked out--I will be able to do it for $95 total. Right now I am forced to pay $50 for the Mopar brand oil filter.
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MacksRam said:
SolidAxleorBust,
I hear what you are saying--Under $200 is better.. I have not checked with another shop in our area--there probably is a cheaper one. I know when I do it--it is done right. Plus, the 2025's are easier to change oil filter than the previous Cummins generation.
And lastly, I think is extremely important to change oil much more frequent than 15K miles due to potential hydraulic lifter issues. (Personally, I change mine every 5000 miles.) Hopefully the 2025's will NOT have any type of lifter issues...
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I’ve always done my own oil and filter changes on every vehicle I’ve ever owned. Personally, I can’t stomach paying someone $100+ to do something I am fully capable and qualified to do in my own shop. $270 for mediocre engine oil and a mediocre oil filter isn’t remotely enticing. You can take the same amount of money, buy the same materials and components, and do the same job for less money. Or conversely, take the same amount of money and buy better quality engine oil and put the rest of that money towards other maintenance items / maintenance tools that make the job even easier.

As for the Fleetguard filter, it is the only one currently available for a 2025+ 6.7 powered Ram. You can either buy it through Fleetguard for a reasonable $20 or you can buy it through a Ram dealer and pay anywhere from $50-100 for the same exact identical filter.

I’m still not certain what’s causing Fleetguard’s abysmal launch of this new filter. Everytime I speak with their team, they tell me there are tons of them out in the market. Unfortunately, when I check all of my local Fleetguard retailers, none of them can even find the filter in their system.
I don’t suspect it will be long before Ram / STL has their aftermarket company (BProAuto) produce a substitute filter and offer it to customers. I’m sure they want nothing more than to offer a “alternative” they can “back by their own warranty”. Nothing more American than buying cheaply produced inferior quality critical maintenance items for a $100k depreciating asset, while at the same time supporting the country that wrote the book on intellectual property theft. What’s not to love?!
 
I always change my own oil. A Fumoto Valve makes it very easy. It is also fast and much less expensive.
 
I usually change my own oil on our vehicles. I did the new RAM ('25 3500 CCLB, DRW, Laramie) at about 1000 miles to flush the system of potential metal particles generated by break-in.
For the second oil change, I planned to change the fuel filters at the same time.
I got lazy and took it to the dealer.

MISTAKE-walked out $750 poorer.
I will be doing it myself going forward.
 
MacksRam said:
SolidAxleorBust,
I hear what you are saying--Under $200 is better.. I have not checked with another shop in our area--there probably is a cheaper one. I know when I do it--it is done right. Plus, the 2025's are easier to change oil filter than the previous Cummins generation.
And lastly, I think is extremely important to change oil much more frequent than 15K miles due to potential hydraulic lifter issues. (Personally, I change mine every 5000 miles.) Hopefully the 2025's will NOT have any type of lifter issues...
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Another oil waster . The lifters are not going south due to oil change frequency or lack thereof . It is either a design flaw or a metallurgy issue . you can change your oil every week and it does zero as far as your lifters not wearing prematurely . Save your money at least get an oil analysis every 5 k to see if you really need an oil change.
 
My 19 has 27k on it. You can probably figure what my oci is with a little math. Let’s just say it’s low. I have lifter problems. It’s the parts.
 
flan said:
My 19 has 27k on it. You can probably figure what my oci is with a little math. Let’s just say it’s low. I have lifter problems. It’s the parts.
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flan,
Based on what you stated above, it sounds like you have changed the oil frequently. What is your plan to get this lifter issue resolved?
It is my understanding that the 2025+ lifters are "improved" from the previous generation, but I have not seen any specific details.
Does anyone have the specs of the 2025+ lifters and how they differ from previous generation? If so, can you post it here? Thanks
 
MacksRam said:
I just called my local RAM dealer--the Service Advisor states they charge $250-$270 (NOT including tax) to do an Engine oil and filter change. He said that is using "conventional" oil (he did not mention what brand oil).
I can do my own (using Rotella T6 full synthetic and Mopar oil filter) for $125 (tax included). And I KNOW it is done right.
When they get the Fleetguard engine oil filter fiasco worked out--I will be able to do it for $95 total. Right now I am forced to pay $50 for the Mopar brand oil filter.
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Meh, the fleetguard filter is in stock at Genos for $21. In the time it took to write this post you could've ordered a case from them...or wait until black friday discount and stock up on a years worth of oil/air/fuel filters plus a spare set of fuel filters to keep on hand in case of bad fuel. You know fleetguard sources the oil filter and then sells to Mopar in their packaging so same filter but one additional markup step plus whatever the dealer marks up.

Rotella T6 goes on sale regularly for $67 a case at Sams. So that's easily a <$100 oil change. If you file for the twice annual Rotella rebate and get $40 back on that case of T6, you're doing even better.

Or you can get your T6 at Tractor Supply when it's on sale (like right now) for $123 for 5-gal pail and then get the $40 rebate. But why would you do that when they also have Delvac ESP for $120 5-gal on sale and also...$40 rebate.

Well, your first oil change will cost $50 more because of the low profile Votex drain plug/valve that you install so you can drain directly into a bottle.

Or like you said you can white glove credit card swipe at the dealer when its convenient for them and be ignorant to the whole deal.
 
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flan said:
I had not heard about that refinement, where did you hear about that? I’d be curious to see what it takes to make something like that more affordable. I did see wagler will be releasing their own solid tappet kit in the coming months.

A lot of this info would be better served ending up in an actual lifter thread for search purposes later on, maybe clean it up if you can find time!
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To be honest i didn’t pay attention to the title. I’ve just been responding as we went along. But you’re not wrong.
 
flan said:
For anyone who didn’t have time to watch the whole thing they diagnosed the truck, felt very strongly through diagnosis the noise was valve train, disassembled the truck found evidence to support their diagnosis, put it back together to have it start making the noise again…
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Makes me wonder if that block happened to be one of the few that require a bit of material removed from one of the cylinder under skirts(#4 I think).

Mine has had their kit in it for ~15k mi. Knock on wood... The only thing I hear is the "normal" tappet clatter sounds.
Although on cold start, first 2 seconds after ignition, a couple are obviously louder. They immediately go quiet when the oil pressure rises. Maybe mine is also doomed... But it has never had that same knock(post install) from your shared vid.

I have 2 normal OCI samples headed for analysis. If they look good, I'll feel better.
 
Ostracize said:
Makes me wonder if that block happened to be one of the few that require a bit of material removed from one of the cylinder under skirts(#4 I think).
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if that were the case, they wouldn’t be able to get the engine together as the flat tappet would not fully seat in its bore. Doubtful they could even get the cam installed. It would’ve been very apparent as soon as they attempted to put it all back together.
 
mbarber84 said:
if that were the case, they wouldn’t be able to get the engine together as the flat tappet would not fully seat in its bore. Doubtful they could even get the cam installed. It would’ve been very apparent as soon as they attempted to put it all back together.
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Yeah fair enough, had the same thought but wasn't sure... Still odd they got a lifter knock/tick from the Hamilton kit, only one I've seen/heard of this happening.
 
Ostracize said:
Yeah fair enough, had the same thought but wasn't sure... Still odd they got a lifter knock/tick from the Hamilton kit, only one I've seen/heard of this happening.
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It’s more common than I’d like. A lot of misdiagnosis going on. That’s why ram put out the “don’t touch anything” bulletin.
This particular sound isn’t coming from the valvetrain at all.
 
Considering the filter is in engine bay now I'm curious how many use a pump to remove old oil or still drop drain. What about the dealer?

I paid a Yamaha dealer who repowered my boat to change oil (first service) on 2 outboards. He came to house and did while on my lift. When I checked the security cams he never pulled cowl and used a pump to suck oil out. I know outboards are different animal but I do know a few other mfg (like Mercedes) no longer do plug and use suction hose to change oil. Is Ram going this same direction????
 
NDanecker said:
Considering the filter is in engine bay now I'm curious how many use a pump to remove old oil or still drop drain. What about the dealer?

I paid a Yamaha dealer who repowered my boat to change oil (first service) on 2 outboards. He came to house and did while on my lift. When I checked the security cams he never pulled cowl and used a pump to suck oil out. I know outboards are different animal but I do know a few other mfg (like Mercedes) no longer do plug and use suction hose to change oil. Is Ram going this same direction????
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Mercedes is going the other way on at least some of their engines.

The OM654 in my Sprinter doesn’t have a dipstick tube, so the only way to change the oil is the pan drain. There are other engines without dipstick tubes too.

MB isn’t the only manufacturer going away from dipstick tubes either.
 
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